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AR-2ax different models and re-cap questions

ymarko

ymarko

Super Member
I got AR-2ax speakers and they produce very little sound and need a complete restoration. I never had AR that old and I would like to restore them.

My plan is a) refoam and re-seal woofers; b) clean and restore potentiometers; c) re-cap; d) re-stuff cabinets; e) refinish cabinets.

I believe both are “later” version with 0.75” dome tweeters. However, they look slightly different. One cabinet has all drivers “flash” with baffle, while the other cabinet has all drivers “deep” into baffle. And tweeters look different. Are they 2ax?

Re-cap probably be needed. As a matter of fact, I never re-capped before. Schematic says they have 4 and 6 uF caps. Are they special “audio” grade caps or any cap on eBay is fine? Where to buy caps?
 

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Hmmmmm.......seems you do have two differant versions! The later versions have the tweeter wires inside the cabinet and the early versions had the slightly recessed open tweeter wires that connected from the front. I could suppose there is no sound differance, but cannot say for sure.

As for recapping you would do well with Dayton 5% poly or Solen caps. You can combine the values to get the exact ones you need as well. The voltae rating is not imporant as they offer plenty enough. Parts Express has what you need.

Good luck with your project- those are great sounding little AR's!!
DC
 
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the left is a late model with the back wired tweet

the right is a early/mid 70's, definitely newer than my ~'71 cabs because of the particle board or MDF baffle (mine have 1" plywood baffles), but older than ~74-75 because of the front wired tweet.

dayton poly, solen, and erse pulseX are all good choices for caps....anything within 10% of the original 4 and 6 uf will be fine (i.e. a 3.9 and 6.2, which are fairly common sizes). no need to replace the fiberglass that is in them....make sure to clean the pots and reseal the drivers and maybe add some caulk around the xover masonite board to make sure it's sealed to the cab, too. also make sure to disassemble and clean the pots. personally I wouldn't touch/remove the tweeters if I could help it. they're pretty delicate (both the teeny lead wires and the 40 year old plastic mounting flanges)

good vendors (that are cheaper than ebay) for caps are parts express, madisound, and meniscus audio.

meniscus can also get you woofer surrounds. call them, and ask for some 10" boston acoustics "filled fillet" style surrounds.

Rick Cobb or John at Msound (both are on Ebay) also have the proper surrounds.
 
Ok, capacitors on Part Express. As I said I never re-cap, so I am confused a little. I checked 4uF and price vary 75 times from $0.44 to $32.81. WTF? What should I get?

$0.44 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-330&FTR=027-330
$2.10 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-421&FTR=027-421
$3.97 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-226&FTR=027-226
$3.63 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-548&FTR=027-548
$32.81 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-728&FTR=027-728

I also checked madisound and meniscus audio. They have Solem capacitors, but no Dayton. All prices are about the same.
 
Since the tweets are mismatched and your are already doing a major resto consider replacing the them. There is plenty of e-ink on this site and others about the various options available. The HiViQ+coil seems to be the most common app, available thru PE. I used that for mine and am very happy with it. Total cost was about $60 for the pair. Good luck with your project, it will be worth it.
 
I pictured 2 different speakers for illustration only. I have a matching pair of a left version and only a single one in the right. If left pair will need a donor driver, I take it from the right single.

I have plenty of foam surrounds and seal gaskets. That is capacitors I never worked with. I am trying to understand.

Is there a reason Solen $3-4 capacitor is preferable to $0.44 Dayton capacitor. I noticed that $0.44 capacitor is smaller then others. Is it true I have to use bipolar in speakers?
 
That $0.44 is just a basic electrolytic cap that will have a +/- 20% tolerance in its rating. The Solens (my personal choice) and Dayton poly caps are non-polarized which means that you can't hook them up backwards...there is no + or - end. Plus, their tolerance points are +/- 5%. Just go with a good poly cap like the ones that have been recommended and call it good. They sound better...they have less drift....and they'll outlive those speakers.
 
You do not need polorized caps here- only non- polarized types. Electrolytic type caps, while very in-expensive, is a "you get what you pay for" thing! Poly or Mylar caps are much superior in sound and longevity. There are even "boutique" caps that even surpass the typical poly/ mylars capss. The sound of those caps is very sbjective on just how much better they sound......they are not really for me-especially at the price they comand.

Good luck on your project!!
DC
 
and for optimal performance, you can't just use any old 10" foam....you need very compliant foam with a larger than typical roll (typical is 1/2", the AR's use ~5/8". there's a JBL surround that works well, as does the boston acoustics "filled fillet" style.

using a generic, stiffer foam will raise the driver's Fs and you'll lose the last 10-20hz of low frequency extension, and possibly introduce a mid-bass hump
 
I actually have new caps for my own AR2ax's on the way today. I went with Obbligato Gold Series 4.7uf 630V because I had some extra money and I wanted to see what a little upscale spending might do. They should arrive today or tomorrow so I'll let you know what happens.

Also, I don't think you have 2ax's unless later models had the third driver. Mine only have a woofer and a tweeter.
 
You will be pleased after recapping and refoaming these AR's Do yourself a favor and study the AR 3a restoration guide at classicspeakerpages.net.

While 3a is different much of the tips and information apply.

Looks like you have one tweeter with a dimple :yes:

Make sure to keep all the fiberglass from each speaker and replace :yes:
 
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