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AR 38s Not convinced

The more that I read, the more that I learn :) THANK YOU ALL!
It is marker line (the one at 09:00) and it is pretty well glued. Its there any place (Internet I mean) where I can find the crossover assembly specs with elements? Thank you for the diagram above but it is difficult to read the values eg: of the capacitors.
 
JCTroncoso said:
The more that I read, the more that I learn :) THANK YOU ALL!
It is marker line (the one at 09:00) and it is pretty well glued. Its there any place (Internet I mean) where I can find the crossover assembly specs with elements? Thank you for the diagram above but it is difficult to read the values eg: of the capacitors.
Click to expand...

For future reference, the crossovers use two 6.0uF 50V capacitors. The inductor is 0.46mH.

Classic Speakers Pages also has a list of nearly all of the AR support documents, thanks to Ken Kantor. Scroll down to near the bottom of the list, and your AR-38S speakers are listed. It's a .tif file, and large. But, you'll be able to read it. I had to down-size it, to post it here, since AK has file size limitations. The drawing shows the values, and so does the parts list, in the lower right corner.
 
I think I'm getting to the core of this. I opened once again and went to the crossover. If I'm not mistaken, it doesn't seem to be recapped. (see pic) The inductor seemed to be re-wired? although, if the capacitors were not changed (my assumption), I doubt the rest was touched. IMG_3935.jpg
 
The inductor looks like it's wired correctly. It seems to match the drawing, at least. Those caps look original too. They look like the Unicon capacitors that were used in my AR58S speakers. They actually held up better than the Red/Black Callins caps, that are in my AR90's. The Callins caps had definitely failed. So, I'm in the process of recapping both the 90's and 58S speakers. Whew. A lot of work. But, it'll be worth it.
 
StimpyWan said:
The inductor looks like it's wired correctly. It seems to match the drawing, at least. Those caps look original too. They look like the Unicon capacitors that were used in my AR58S speakers. They actually held up better than the Red/Black Callins caps, that are in my AR90's. The Callins caps had definitely failed. So, I'm in the process of recapping both the 90's and 58S speakers. Whew. A lot of work. But, it'll be worth it.
Click to expand...
Yes, they are Unicon (Japan). Do you suggest to change them? Can it be the reason of my post? or is it my ear? ;)
 
If staying with NPE's, Mundorf E-Caps, or the standard Bennic NPE capacitors. If polypropylene, I like ClarityCap ESA/CSA capacitors (a warmer sound), or Mundorf MKP M-Caps (more dynamic), or Mundorf EVO Oil (more open). Audyn caps get good reviews too, but I've never tried them. ClarityCaps, Audyn, and Mundorf should be easy to find in Europe. Solen too, but I find those a bit harsh and sibilant.

Oh yea, make sure to match the 6uF value. Voltage on replacement caps can be higher, but not lower. That's fine to go to a higher voltage. It will increase the size of the caps, but you have plenty of space in there.
 
Several experienced people on the CSP site find this brand of inexpensive, metalized polyester cap to work very well with vintage AR speakers:
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/carli-capacitors/carli-mylar-6-mfd/

And like Stimpy mentioned, these Mundorf's are excellent NPE caps at a very good value (you'll have to combine a 3.3uF and a 2.7uF to achieve the 6uF):
http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_mundorf_bipol.html

No need to go hog wild and spend much more than these examples. See what advice your tech expert has to offer.
 
ra.ra said:
Several experienced people on the CSP site find this brand of inexpensive, metalized polyester cap to work very well with vintage AR speakers:
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/carli-capacitors/carli-mylar-6-mfd/

And like Stimpy mentioned, these Mundorf's are excellent NPE caps at a very good value (you'll have to combine a 3.3uF and a 2.7uF to achieve the 6uF):
http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_mundorf_bipol.html

No need to go hog wild and spend much more than these examples. See what advice your tech expert has to offer.
Click to expand...
Thank you. Related to Mundorf's, you mean that I have to go for 4 caps to make this two 6uf? You combine them how? Soldering them in pairs?
 
JCTroncoso said:
Thank you. Related to Mundorf's, you mean that I have to go for 4 caps to make this two 6uf? You combine them how? Soldering them in pairs?
Click to expand...

To add capacitance, you solder the caps together in parallel (side by side). Like this. Then the 3.3 and 2.7uF caps, in parallel, would read approximately 6.0uF.

As an aside; it makes me crazy too, when I can't find the values I need, as a single capacitor. Nothing wrong with combining caps, to create a value. It's just the single cap seems more organized! :p:D

recap14.jpg
 
StimpyWan said:
To add capacitance, you solder the caps together in parallel (side by side). Like this. Then the 3.3 and 2.7uF caps, in parallel, would read approximately 6.0uF.

As an aside; it makes me crazy too, when I can't find the values I need, as a single capacitor. Nothing wrong with combining caps, to create a value. It's just the single cap seems more organized! :p:D

recap14.jpg
Click to expand...

Actually, parallel caps can have added benefit of lower series inductance etc.
 
smurfer77 said:
Actually, parallel caps can have added benefit of lower series inductance etc.
Click to expand...

Yes, I know. But that freaks some people out, as they're afraid that lower ESR will result in the caps being too bright. So, I try not to mention it. Though (after break in), if the caps still seem a little bright, you can add a low value resistor is series with the capacitors, to tone things down.
 
StimpyWan said:
....you solder the caps together in parallel (side by side). Like this.
Click to expand...
Nice soldering, but an unusual cumulative value - - which speaker model of yours uses a .25 cap?

For the OP, to add to stimpy's post and pic, here is a before-and-after pic of my re-build of an AR-18s crossover. The original was a 5uF cap; and it has been replaced with two 2.5uF caps wired in parallel. Also, I replaced the original spring clip terminals, but that's just a personal preference - - no need to do this unless interested to do so.

x-o, before, after.jpg
 
StimpyWan said:
To add capacitance, you solder the caps together in parallel (side by side). Like this. Then the 3.3 and 2.7uF caps, in parallel, would read approximately 6.0uF.

As an aside; it makes me crazy too, when I can't find the values I need, as a single capacitor. Nothing wrong with combining caps, to create a value. It's just the single cap seems more organized! :p:D

recap14.jpg
Click to expand...
Well, thank you very much. It is very clear. I found a distributor of Clarity Cap here in Poland. I can make 6uf out of two but they don't look the same and they are 250V. One is 3,30uf and the other is 2.70uf. Both 250V. Any problem?, comments?Thanks in advance.
 
JCTroncoso said:
I found a distributor of Clarity Cap here in Poland. I can make 6uf out of two but they don't look the same and they are 250V. One is 3,30uf and the other is 2.70uf. Both 250V. Any problem?, comments?
Click to expand...

That's fine. 250V is no issue. And they'll be different sizes, due to the different uF values. So, no problems. Go for it. :thumbsup:
 
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