AR 98LS Info
- Thread starter madtech
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Vintage_Hi-F
Vintage Audio Geek
Well It looks like you may have some problems with the high frequency drivers. The domes are pushed in, you may be able to gently pull them out. As far as sound if you get the domes pulled out and the mids and woofers re-foamed they should sound pretty damn good though it depends on whether you like the LS sound. Some people thought they were too bright, hence the later LSi model (the I means improved). Though if they are half as good as there big brother the AR9LS/LSi than they will be a damn fine sounding speaker.
avguytx
Lunatic Member
You can use a straw to suck the domes back out....usually works pretty well. (just don't let anyone see you actually doing it...lol) You can also use a vacuum....but be VERY careful, of course. It won't typically take a lot of suction to get those soft domes back out again. Nice looking speakers....I'd love to come across a pair of those for that kind of price! I have a pair of AR-11's (that I love) and AR-2ax's (that are in the closet) and their sound is quite nice. I've been pondering on a pair of the larger AR-9LS's (IIRC) that are fairly local but haven't pulled the trigger.
Vintage_Hi-F
Vintage Audio Geek
I'd say do it, I've never regretted my LSi's
Cogsinister
Super Member
Awesome score Terry !!
Did you find the missing grille badge ?
Did you find the missing grille badge ?
michiganpat
Super Member
nice...wish I could find AR scores like this around here
Just Lucky
Active Member
Nice score! I sold this line of ARs back in the day. The best I could afford at the time was a pair of 78ls. We didn't sell the 98 but did sell the 9. I was told at the time that the 98s were too close to the 9s in performance so, the retailer I worked for didn't want to carry them as they might cut into 9 sales.
You got quite a deal!
You got quite a deal!
AzFeedback
Member
Congrats on your score. There is a lot of info on then 98lsi, cabinet rebuild, crossover rebuild/mods and schematics. The 98 and 98lsi are almost identical except for a resistor to help reduce the observed harshness on the 98 high freqs.
Before you start anything make sure the high/mid-high "square plates" both are functioning because if either is inop they are not repairable. Replacement cost for each purchased used is minimum 2+ times what you paid for your speakers alone, only if and when you can find them on the auction site.
That would be the first place to start if I were to do it again.
A refoam and challenging recap project will be required if not already done by previous owner and at least 80 to 200+ watts will make quite a satisfied owner out of you for a very long time.
Before you start anything make sure the high/mid-high "square plates" both are functioning because if either is inop they are not repairable. Replacement cost for each purchased used is minimum 2+ times what you paid for your speakers alone, only if and when you can find them on the auction site.
That would be the first place to start if I were to do it again.
A refoam and challenging recap project will be required if not already done by previous owner and at least 80 to 200+ watts will make quite a satisfied owner out of you for a very long time.
dc270
Now Off the Reservation
These, as with most larger AR speakers, will need a lot of power to wake them up to their best potential! The can sound really good with the right amount of power. I have found that these larger AR's work very well with Hafler DH500 amps.
As was said- recap them and pull the dent domes out and you'll have some great sounding speakers with a big enough amp/ current.
DC
As was said- recap them and pull the dent domes out and you'll have some great sounding speakers with a big enough amp/ current.
DC
Vintage_Hi-F
Vintage Audio Geek
If but a lot you mean 15 watts. The LS and LSi were significantly more efficient than any of AR's earlier large models. Though I would say you should have about 50 wpc at the very least.
madtech
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys. 4.3 ohms at the posts so we're off to a good start. The old foams were still intact enough to go for a low volume test. Both high/mid-high "square plates" are producing sound along with the other woofers. 
Low volume only but the tweeters sound very "crisp". I think I have enough of a power amp to feed them. I'm using an Adcom 555 pre to feed a NAD 216 THX power amp. 200W into 4 ohms. Are there date stamps on the woofers? The owner said 1987 but from the pictures I can find they look to be older. Mine also say 3db down at 28hz. Most of the pictures I can find show 3db down at 39Hz. Different years different specs? Foams are next. Anyone want progress pics or just the final product? The fun begins!
Low volume only but the tweeters sound very "crisp". I think I have enough of a power amp to feed them. I'm using an Adcom 555 pre to feed a NAD 216 THX power amp. 200W into 4 ohms. Are there date stamps on the woofers? The owner said 1987 but from the pictures I can find they look to be older. Mine also say 3db down at 28hz. Most of the pictures I can find show 3db down at 39Hz. Different years different specs? Foams are next. Anyone want progress pics or just the final product? The fun begins!
Cogsinister
Super Member
Progress pics are a must Terry.....you did that for my JBL's you HAVE to do it for your AR's !!!!!
madtech
Well-Known Member
Looks like I'm making an AR badge Neil. I have the bottom portion of it. Looks like the silver was scuffed off.
The small dark stain on the top of the cab may be a challenge too but other than that the cabs are minty! A small bit of sanding and a bit of Tung oil should bring them back to new condition.
madtech
Well-Known Member
A straw wouldn't work to pull the dents out on the mids. They were too porous so I used painters tape to pull them back out. They didn't want to stay out so I used a hair dryer to carefully heat them up and sure enough they stayed in place. Almost perfect results. Foams are next.
Cogsinister
Super Member
What a great idea, the combo of tape/Hairdryer !!!!!
Look perfect...
Look perfect...