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AR the turntable tone arm lifter question

Zodia

Zodia

Super Member
the AR turntable tone arm lifter question- (and the problems keep arising)

the arm lifter on my AR lifts the tone arm just fine, but it stays up, it will not go down, and when it does it only goes half way, i took it apart cleaned it and added a silicone lubricant to it, with no effect, is it possible the lifter is busted, or do i need a special fluid ? Maybe the spring is worn out and needs replacing?
Oh yeah the tonearm is the original jelco.
 
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Is is possible for you to gently push down on the tonearm to get the cuing device to lower all the way?

I don't know exactly what AR turntable you have, and consequently, what the cuing mechanism is like. I have an XB and with mine you can adjust the height of the cuing. This causes the arm to come down to a higher or lower point when not cued, and also higher or lower when it is cued. There were instructions on how to adjust it in the manual I downloaded from vinylengine.com.
 
I'm pretty sure it is "the AR turntable" :scratch2:
http://www.vinylengine.com/library/acoustic-research/ar-turntable.shtml
And this is the tone arm
attachment.php

Anyway i think i got it working (at least for the moment).
Pushing down on the tonearm would not lower the cueing (lifter), i would have to return the arm to its rest and force it down with my hand by compressing it.
So i took it apart cleaned the gunky fluid inside and replaced it with a thick silicone lubricant, but that didn't work out to well, cussed a few times and went to bed, woke up this morning took it apart again, cleaned it again, and this time i used a silicone paste, making sure i didn't put any on the lever axle thingy, the silicone paste is thick enough that allows for the tonearm to come down nice and slow. Hopefully that is all i need to do to it for awhile.
Thank you for your reply.

The one other thing i am uncertain of, is the correct hoverhang, i read somewhere that for the jelco arm overhang is 18mm, but AR calls for 15mm, which should i use? i currently have it at 18mm.
 
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As long as the arm lifter is working, I wouldn't question it. That's definitely a different arm and lifter from mine, I just forgot that they actually named a turntable "The AR Turntable."
 
12ax7 said:
Take it Back! (but wait 'til I get there)

http://www.vinylnirvana.com/ar_turntable_english.shtml

www.vinylnirvana.com
Click to expand...
HA HA, never!
So, is your reply to the cueing lever, or the overhang, i'm confused, either way the cueing lever issue seems resolved for now, the overhang i think i am going to go with the AR specs, 15mm, but yet another problem as risen, i loose audio on the right channel after playing a few records, i will then have to remove the headshell pull on the connector springy whatchamacallits with a tweezer (doesn't work 100%), or touch the contacts until i hear a buzz from the right speaker, i already deoxit all the contacts, checked all the connections for continuity and they all check out, i am stumped. all i can think of is, where the RCA cable connects to the tone arm may be loose, or the preamp is kicking it, and i certainly hope it is not my M97XE (it's only a month old damn it, and played fine on my Thorens).
 
What is it with AR wiring in the Boston area? This is starting to sound like beatcomber's thread.

Try cleaning the whatchamacallits with a pencil eraser or even some Magic Eraser and then some more DeoxIT. Maybe do the headshell leads too. Jiggle the RCA leads and plugs while the table is playing. Maybe you'll get lucky (Again!). I'll admit that I have zero experience with that arm so I don't know how hard it is to get to the electric bits.

Vinylnirvana is a good AR turntable resource, didn't know if you'd seen it or not.
 
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Zodia said:
the arm lifter on my AR lifts the tone arm just fine, but it stays up, it will not go down, and when it does it only goes half way, i took it apart cleaned it and added a silicone lubricant to it, with no effect, is it possible the lifter is busted, or do i need a special fluid ? Maybe the spring is worn out and needs replacing?
Oh yeah the tonearm is the original jelco.
Click to expand...

No, I don't think anything is worn out on your 'table. Unfortunately, that seems to be the nature of the beast. The cueing level on my AR Turntable has been stubborn since it was new. But it does loosen up after it is cycled up and down a couple of times, when I'm using it.

BTW, what cartridge are you using on yours? I've had my Shure V15 mk.V mounted up on it forever and it seems to be an excellent combination. My 'table has the original arm, as well.

Edit: Once I posted, I noticed in your latest posting that you mentioned that you are using the Shure M97xE. That cartridge should be an excellent match for the jelco arm, as well. As far as overhang is concerned, I would recommend that you use an alignment protractor instead of using the overhang method. It's a somewhat fiddlely process, but well worth the effort.

In addition to the turntable leads, I'd also look for the source of your intermittent at the cartridge clips too. That is a common source of trouble. The headshell on that arm is non-standard, but it is removal, so you might want to pull it and clean the headshell/arm contacts too. Good luck!
 
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12ax7 said:
What is it with AR wiring in the Boston area? This is starting to sound like beatcomber's thread.

Try cleaning the whatchamacallits with a pencil eraser or even some Magic Eraser and then some more DeoxIT. Maybe do the headshell leads too. Jiggle the RCA leads and plugs while the table is playing. Maybe you'll get lucky (Again!). I'll admit that I have zero experience with that arm so I don't know how hard it is to get to the electric bits.

Vinylnirvana is a good AR turntable resource, didn't know if you'd seen it or not.
Click to expand...
I know right? I was willing to give him a hand figuring out his wiring problem, and i end up with an almost similar problem, only mine i can get the audio back with some fiddling of the headshell, Oh well, i am not giving up on this TT, as it sounds great, and thank you for the link, i have heard of vinylnirvana, but never realized it was strictly an AR site.

thunderroad said:
No, I don't think anything is worn out on your 'table. Unfortunately, that seems to be the nature of the beast. The cueing level on my AR Turntable has been stubborn since it was new. But it does loosen up after it is cycled up and down a couple of times, when I'm using it.

BTW, what cartridge are you using on yours? I've had my Shure V15 mk.V mounted up on it forever and it seems to be an excellent combination. My 'table has the original arm, as well.

Edit: Once I posted, I noticed in your latest posting that you mentioned that you are using the Shure M97xE. That cartridge should be an excellent match for the jelco arm, as well. As far as overhang is concerned, I would recommend that you use an alignment protractor instead of using the overhang method. It's a somewhat fiddlely process, but well worth the effort.

In addition to the turntable leads, I'd also look for the source of your intermittent at the cartridge clips too. That is a common source of trouble. The headshell on that arm is non-standard, but it is removal, so you might want to pull it and clean the headshell/arm contacts too. Good luck!
Click to expand...

The cueing (like i said before) it seems ok now, still a bit wonky but i can live with it, since i only use it when it is to return the arm to its rest (shaky hands).
Yes the M97XE sounds very nice on the jelco, i did use a protractor, but you always get mixed signals when it comes to aligning a cartridge, some people say that overhang is important, and others don't care much for it. i have set the OH both at 15 and 18mm, and honestly can't detect a difference in audio quality (that is, if OH can even make a difference) maybe i am just deaf:D, So i'll just leave it at 18mm (the M97XE looks better that way :yes: :scratch2:).
As far as cleaning the contacts, I have done that twice over, but i will get to the bottom of this dilemma, i just don't feel like messing around with re-wiring... which is what i would like to do with the headshell leads, but they are near impossible to access, and like you said the headshell is non standard, so if i ruin it i will be up shits river without a paddle, I might have to however, remove the base again and spray deoxit on the RCA wire plug that connects to the Tonearm base.
I have a feeling this is going to be a trial and error project.
 
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Missing headshell to "the AR turntable"

[which is what i would like to do with the headshell leads, but they are near impossible to access, and like you said the headshell is non standard, so if i ruin it i will be up shits river without a paddle]

I have been trying to find a headshell to fit into my original "the AR turntable", which was given to me by my father before he passed away. I am not an expert, but I will try to describe it. The tonearm is a "straight" one, on the front end, it has "AR" letters on the top. The shape of the rear end of the arm is "square" on top with a small screw hole on the side that I believe is to hold the headshell. There are tiny "pins" inside that I think are used to connect the leads of the headshell. I just checked with ebay, there are two AR turntable for sale with the tonearms exactly like the one I have. Can you or anyone help me to find out where I can purchse the headshell or any similar one that would fit into this type of arm? thank you very much!
 
The re-badged Jelco tonearm on the AR "The Turntable" is, to be charitable, an inexpensive and undistinguished piece of work (aka cheap rubbish). Replace it and junk it - that's the least one can do in order to appreciate just how good this turntable is.

New or used Rega 250 or 300/301 arms are most compatible, from both the sound quality and price points of view.
 
Zodia said:
I'm pretty sure it is "the AR turntable" :scratch2:
http://www.vinylengine.com/library/acoustic-research/ar-turntable.shtml
And this is the tone arm
attachment.php

Anyway i think i got it working (at least for the moment).
Pushing down on the tonearm would not lower the cueing (lifter), i would have to return the arm to its rest and force it down with my hand by compressing it.
So i took it apart cleaned the gunky fluid inside and replaced it with a thick silicone lubricant, but that didn't work out to well, cussed a few times and went to bed, woke up this morning took it apart again, cleaned it again, and this time i used a silicone paste, making sure i didn't put any on the lever axle thingy, the silicone paste is thick enough that allows for the tonearm to come down nice and slow. Hopefully that is all i need to do to it for awhile.
Thank you for your reply.

The one other thing i am uncertain of, is the correct hoverhang, i read somewhere that for the jelco arm overhang is 18mm, but AR calls for 15mm, which should i use? i currently have it at 18mm.
Click to expand...
 
I followed this thread because I own an AR the turntable (1984) too, which has a similar problem. I am about to do the cleaning cueing device and refill the silicon myself. I remove the screw and the armrest and I realize I need to release the pot by unscrew it with a correct of Allen Wrench. However it seems to me the diameter of it is smaller than all the Allen Wrench I have. What is size of Allen Wrench should I use? Is it SAE or metric?
 
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Wen Yih Yu said:
I followed this thread because I own an AR the turntable (1984) too, which has a similar problem. I am about to do the cleaning cueing device and refill the silicon myself. I remove the screw and the armrest and I realize I need to release the pot by unscrew it with a correct of Allen Wrench. However it seems to me the diameter of it is smaller than all the Allen Wrench I have. What is size of Allen Wrench should I use? Is it SAE or metric?
Click to expand...

Metric, 2mm from what I can remember. Clean the piston in a horizontal manner. around and around, not up and down. the same goes for the piston bore. If the top and bottom of the piston has a very square edge, burnish that slightly with very fine metallurgical grade paper. Nail polish remover, or lighter fluid works very well for cleaning the silicone from the bore and piston.
 
marcmorin said:
Metric, 2mm from what I can remember. Clean the piston in a horizontal manner. around and around, not up and down. the same goes for the piston bore. If the top and bottom of the piston has a very square edge, burnish that slightly with very fine metallurgical grade paper. Nail polish remover, or lighter fluid works very well for cleaning the silicone from the bore and piston.
Click to expand...

I fixed that. Thank you very much.
 
I haven't posted here for a long time. I recently purchased an AR The Turntable. I bought a new Shure cartridge, and set up the tonearm according to the manual. The first time I put a record on, everything worked fine. About an hour later, I put on another record, and no sound. I couldn't figure out the problem, and then noticed the stylus was not contacting the record. I turned off the turntable, and gently pushed down on the silver lift mechanism. I turned the table back on, and the record played fine. Does the lifter require lubrication? If so, can anyone point me to a process on what needs to be done?
Thanks a bunch.
Mike
 
marcmorin said:
refer to my post several above this.......on how to clean it. 300,000 cst to recharge it.
Click to expand...
Thanks marcmorin. I read all the posts here (as well as checking other sites), but I am still not sure just what the procedure is. While pretty competent with dealing with "things", I am not a technician. Do I remove the small Phillips screw at the top of the lifter? Do I need to be careful so no springs come flying out? After removing the screw, then what? Someone mentioned hex screws. Do I then put in the same oil as used for the platter bearing, or something more viscous? I am not sure what 300,000 cst is.
Thanks again.
 
Depends which "AR" arm you have on your AR......the small Phillips screw holds the lift bar to the post. That will need to come off.
you will need to remove the lift from the arm. After getting the top off the lift piece, there will be a small diameter coil spring that rides on top of the piston. It shouldn't go sploinging anywhere. pull the piston out of the bore, clean both pieces as mentioned before. The "oil" you need to recharge it with is 300,000CST silicone oil. It can be found in small bottles at hobby stores. Normally sold as differential oil for radio controlled race cars.
 
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