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AR-XA Headshell's...

jleon92f

jleon92f

Addicted Member
Hi TT Fans,

I just took a NIB AR-XA out for first time use. I must have been in box for a while, it has the surface roughness damage as my other one does, and the emblem had fallen off. I set it up for 1st time test play with the headshell (M97Xe cart) from my othe AR-XA which worked until the motor starting acting up. There was no sound just a hum ? Question: Are all the headshell wirings the same? I also noticed that the tab contacts on this headshell end were shorter than the one that actually worked?

I put a different headshell on and it works fine, but that other headshell worked on my other AR-XA? Also does any one know the belt length? My records said 22.0 but that was too tight? I used a 25.0 which works fine.

Thanks,
John.:music:
 
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cruisaire said:
Weird! Dave Archambault should be able to cast some light on this. Dave, are you out there?
Click to expand...

I know, I am putting it through its paces now, sounds great with the Shure High Track cart. There was lube in the main platter bearing, but no oil in the tonearm well, I added some. Works smooth, just need to add the emblem and oil the base.

Thanks,
John.:music:
 
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Hi,

It's not widely known but XA headshells varied over time. Some models were "spring-loaded" meaning the tabs that make contact were longer and moved inward as the headshell was tightened onto the arm. These springloaded headshells are the best to own, because they generally fit all XA arms.

Early XAs (I have not been able to discern the dates) did not have a springloaded tab. They were fixed. Those headshells only fit the early arms.

If you go to buy a headshell on ebay, or elsewhere, it's important to know that either 1) your arm is able to accept the fixed design; or 2) the headshell is springloaded and so will fit all arms.

To throw one more monekywrench into all of this, over the years there have been a couple of cases where a headshell "neck" was too wide to fit into a certain XA arm receptacle. I have not been able to ascertain any rhyme or reason to that.

BELTS: Belts should be GOOD quality rubber and 23.6 inches long. If they are cheap in quality, they will be too tight and possibly cause damage to your motor's bearing.

See my recent blog on belts:

http://www.vinylnirvana.com/ar_verbosa.shtml
 
Thank You Dave,

It is just as you have stated, the other AR-XA must have a different arm. That headshell works on that one. I had enough extra parts to find one that fit, and the other one that does not even go into the arm end. I have a belt that is closer to the specs you have given me.

Update: I ordered 3 belts for all of my ARs when they need them.

Thanks again,
John.
 
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New Belts...

Hi Guys & Gals,

I installed a new belt, 23.6" as the specs list. The motor is acting up? :scratch2:

Speed changes ,etc. Does it have to break in? And it makes noise in the 1st few minutes of play, then goes away?

JOhn:music:
 
Im not familiar with AR motors, but I have alot of experience with electric motors by themselves. I raced RC cars from when I was 10 till a couple years ago, I wound many of my own motors too. From what Ive exprianced, motors, if they sit to long without use ( in my case 10 or more years) tend to build up crap like corrosion and rust on the com were the brush sits and will create a bad spot on the com. If you can take apart the AR motor you may wont to and clean the bad area and maybe lube it with some fluid to increase conductivity. Another way we would clean sealed motors was to put them in a solution of a little bit of degreaser and half water and half rubbing alcohol while running. BEFORE you try any of this though let some others give some reaction to it to see if they have tried any of this and failed. Hope all the best with your new AR!!

Just so you know I am horribly jealous, new in box damn!!!
 
The AR uses an AC motor and RC cars use DC motors, which are a totally different animal.

You may have a shot motor. The bearings may be worn out or the shaft may be bent.

Replacement motors are available. Do an internet search and you'll find several.


There's a couple different UPGRADE motor kits out there for around $100. These are fairly easy to install and make a big difference. The motors have more torque but are properly designed and are as quiet as the stock motors. I installed one in my XA and it worked flawlessly. It did require the suspension be readjusted as the added torque of the new motor tends to overcome the loose suspension settings that work with the stock motor.

Check the Vinyl Nirvana website for more info. That place is a great resource for any AR owner.
 
Thanks for the replies, the belt is of good quality, I will try some of the ideas this weekend.:scratch2:

Again you guys are the life blood of audio!:thmbsp:

John:music:
 
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ddarch said:
If you read my blog on belts, it's not just the correct size, but also the right suppleness and flexibility.

Does the belt feel like a good quality rubber should, or it is kind of plastic-y and slippery?

I would try a little talc and see if that helps the issue.

See here:

http://www.vinylnirvana.com/ar_diy_xa_xb_belt.shtml

Dave
Click to expand...

Hi Dave,

The Talc seems to do the trick! The TT started right up, so far so good..
Thank you,:thmbsp:

John.:music:
 
New Cart and feet!

Hi,

I replaced the cartridge with a Grado Black for now, and put new feet on the base. Polished the platter with Mother's polish.
Almost done...Sounds great! I set the cart at 1.63 grams for now, I will fine tune to 1.5 later..:scratch2:

John...:music:
 
Here's something that'll make you wish you had a time machine...

From an Allied Radio sale flyer...July, 1964.
 

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Celt said:
From an Allied Radio sale flyer...July, 1964.
Click to expand...

I only had a $5.00 a week allowance in 1964, could not afford it then..But I can now!!! Thanks to eBay!! I bought everything I could not afford growing up.

Thanks for the ad.
John.:music:
 
AR-XA Done!

Hi,

Well the AR-XA is done, I put it in my vintage system for now.

Thanks for all the help.
John.:music:
 
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