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AR-XA/other - Marc Morin tips, hints, instruction?

D

Dale Murray

New Member
I just picked up an AR-XA and researching what I should do with it to get it up to snuff and it appears Marc Morin was a highly respected authority on AR equipment. I never heard of him until yesterday and I already know what an influence he had here.

Has anybody created a library of Marc Morin information?
His tips, tricks, sources, etc?

The table I purchased is 100% bone stock and I know the basics of cleaning, lubrication, etc. What I would like to find is information on springs, adding weight, etc.

I would also like to find a add tone are queue lever instead of dropping the needle manually.

I discovered the official AR Owners thread and on page 4 of it at the moment. I do intend to read through it, however.
 
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Hi Dale as AVfan stated those two members were taught by Marc all the knowledge he pass on to them before he passed onto the next life.

And that thread has most of Marc's tips, tricks and the knowledge.

here is another thread of an AKer in the UK who documented his build, an Marc commented on it though out.

lots of good info there especially on suspension set up if adding Linn springs.

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...able-rebuild-my-first-and-need-advice.785975/


But If it was me and the motor keeps speed and the head shell stays in place firmly . Id just clean it up, set it up and listen to it
for a while before diving into any upgrades.

Athanasios
 
Nashou66 said:
But If it was me and the motor keeps speed and the head shell stays in place firmly . Id just clean it up, set it up and listen to it
for a while before diving into any upgrades.

Athanasios
Click to expand...

I will likely leave it close to original mechanical function - same motor, tonearm, headshell, etc - unless motor turns out to be a mess.
I imagine it would be wise to replace the caps and since I live in America, I can completely bypass the 115/220 switching.

I plan on building a new base - I'm a woodworker, why wouldn't I - and polishing the existing cover.

As mentioned, I would like to have a queue lever.

I will likely keep this but I could see selling it and using the money for another turntable to restore. I am not terribly knowledgeable about AR aside from a very compelling video from M. Zillich (
). It really piqued my interest.
 
For a Cue lever I use a Supex Tone arm Lift. Look on eBay they pop up now and then.

You can see it here in this pic


51325840910_cc88cff4e6_h.jpg


Athanasios
 
Nashou66 said:
lots of good info there especially on suspension set up if adding Linn springs.

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...able-rebuild-my-first-and-need-advice.785975/
Athanasios
Click to expand...

I just finished the thread shown above.
As promised, loads of good information.

On my list of to do's
  • Open up the motor to clean and lubricate (seemingly impossible to open).
  • Linn Springs.
  • Creative way to mount roughly 3 additional pounds to the T-frame, or a weight required to compress springs to 32mm (likely 1-1/4" as this is an american made unit from the 60's)
  • Seems replacing the S arm with a technics is an improvement but have no idea why.
    • Does changing that segment of the arm remove the ability to use the stock headshell?
    • Does changing that segment of the arm change the effective length?
  • Where does one get the jewels for the tonearm pivots?
  • Record weights are a no-no.
    • This is mildly annoying and I have to wonder if there is an option to make it viable.
The other item I need to research is whether I should get a new Stylus from the Grado GF1 cartridge that came on this unit. Existing stylus if whacked out of shape.
 
Nashou66 said:
For a Cue lever I use a Supex Tone arm Lift. Look on eBay they pop up now and then.

You can see it here in this pic


51325840910_cc88cff4e6_h.jpg


Athanasios
Click to expand...

Tell me more about the second tonearm.
I imagine it is not at all suspended with the factory assembly, so how does that work?
Also, I really like the larger base and cover allowing the lid to be closed during playback.
 
Dale Murray said:
I just finished the thread shown above.
As promised, loads of good information.

On my list of to do's
  • Open up the motor to clean and lubricate (seemingly impossible to open).
  • Linn Springs.
  • Creative way to mount roughly 3 additional pounds to the T-frame, or a weight required to compress springs to 32mm (likely 1-1/4" as this is an american made unit from the 60's)
  • Seems replacing the S arm with a technics is an improvement but have no idea why.
    • Does changing that segment of the arm remove the ability to use the stock headshell?
    • Does changing that segment of the arm change the effective length?
  • Where does one get the jewels for the tonearm pivots?
  • Record weights are a no-no.
    • This is mildly annoying and I have to wonder if there is an option to make it viable.
The other item I need to research is whether I should get a new Stylus from the Grado GF1 cartridge that came on this unit. Existing stylus if whacked out of shape.
Click to expand...
Pretty sure you don't want to open the motor. Just add a little oil where the spindle enters the body and let it run continuously, wiping old nasty oil and adding more clean oil until it runs clear. Talking very small amounts of oil here.
Contact Hose and Stewart for advice. Probably best to let them rebuild your tonearm as that's a very specific procedure/parts that really needs their expertise.
 
Dale Murray said:
I just finished the thread shown above..

..Seems replacing the S arm with a technics is an improvement but have no idea why.
    • Does changing that segment of the arm remove the ability to use the stock headshell?
    • Does changing that segment of the arm change the effective length?..
Click to expand...
The Technics arm tube looks similar to the AR’s and is very close to the same length. It allows for use of common, easy to find headshells - but your original AR headshell will not be compatible with the Technics tube.
 
I wonder...
Could those guys collaborate and put together something about common mods and upgrades and it gets stickied in here?

Nobody wants to dig thru an 18 page thread let alone a 205 page one...
 
Thumper said:
I wonder...
Could those guys collaborate and put together something about common mods and upgrades and it gets stickied in here?

Nobody wants to dig thru an 18 page thread let alone a 205 page one...
Click to expand...

Actually I have been working on something that has taken me through the AR turntable threads before they set up the AR thread. Tons of stuff! Have to get with the moderators, all of whom recognize what Marc has meant to AK. at the very least I plan on setting up some sort of spreadsheet that may list topics and threads where he talks about those topics. I'd like to get their thought on how to make that available to all.
Honestly, at the same time it does bring back so many memories of sitting with him in his kitchen and listening space. What an incredibly gracious man and his wife, Barb was just as gracious! I need to touch base with her again!
 
Going through Q&As from old magazines.
Found this from 1970.

QUESTION:
About a year ago I read a recommendation that if a Shure V -15 Type II cartridge is not tracking well in the AR arm at 1 1/4 grams, the stylus force should be increased to about 1 1/2 grams as a minimum tracking recommendation for the AR arm. But what about the Pickering XV15 /750E and Empire 1000ZE, with recommended tracking forces between 1 and 1 1/4 grams? -D. F., Calif.

ANSWER:
Neither of these cartridges is recommended for the arm on the AR turntable. Empire tells us that the 1000ZE should not be used in any arm without antiskating compensation -which the AR doesn't have. For your purposes, Empire recommends its 888TE; Pickering its 200E; and Stanton its 681SE. Shure admits the V -15 Type II mistracked for some owners of earlier models of the AR turntable and arm and that it was necessary to incapacitate the arm's viscous damping to get proper results. They say, however, that they have encountered no reports of this problem with ARs made in the last two years or so.

Viscous damping.....not a good thing?
 
Hose53 said:
Actually I have been working on something that has taken me through the AR turntable threads before they set up the AR thread. Tons of stuff! Have to get with the moderators, all of whom recognize what Marc has meant to AK. at the very least I plan on setting up some sort of spreadsheet that may list topics and threads where he talks about those topics. I'd like to get their thought on how to make that available to all.
Click to expand...

This would be amazing how ever you manage to do it... there are so many breadcrumbs scattered around it's a bit overwhelming. I've bookmarked a lot!

Had him do my arm 5 years ago... boy do I wish I would've had him do the rest.
 
A quick update:
  • I've been in contact with Hose53 and StuartB, both have been immensely helpful and informative.
  • The Babbitt bearing for the platter spindle was totally ruined.
    • I drilled out the old material and will machine a bronze oil-impregnated sleeve to replace it this weekend.
    • While with the lathe I'll machine a post to accept the broken arm rest.
  • The t-frame has been primed and painted.
  • Sheet metal top has been primed.
    • Its very likely this first paint job will be bad. I'm just trying to get it presentable and functional. Once I know its good I will put the effort in to make it special.
  • Outer platter rim has been mirror polished.
  • I may need to replace the inner platter - I cosmetically damaged the centering pin for the record. It will totally work, just not pretty.
  • I'm definitely replacing the tonearm pivots with jewels, tonearm wiring, belt, and thrust bearings.
If I get this 100% functional I will consider the following:
  • I may replace the tonearm wand to use technics headshell (really cost dependent).
  • I may replace the springs and add weights.
  • Build a new base, one that will accept a common acrylic cover so it can be hinged.
  • Locate a tonearm lifter.
 
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