AR4X speaker repair--tweeter cone detached from flange

[Peterchris]

I'm trying to repair two AR4X speakers. Basically, the pots need to be cleaned, and I've done that for one of the speakers. (I haven't opened the other one yet.)

But the tweeter in the speaker that I opened is damaged, also. I've attached a photo showing that the edge of the cone has separated from the metal flange. What is the best way to fix this, if it's possible? I'm assuming that the tweeter still works, but I haven't yet tried it. (I need to reconnect the wires inside the speaker.)

Thanks,
Peter

 

[GD70]

I'm trying to repair two AR4X speakers. Basically, the pots need to be cleaned, and I've done that for one of the speakers. (I haven't opened the other one yet.)

But the tweeter in the speaker that I opened is damaged, also. I've attached a photo showing that the edge of the cone has separated from the metal flange. What is the best way to fix this, if it's possible? I'm assuming that the tweeter still works, but I haven't yet tried it. (I need to reconnect the wires inside the speaker.)

Thanks,
PeterView attachment 1446332

Check that it produces sound first. If it does, you'll need to lift the cone as much as possible and maybe put some very small soft for pieces to keep it lifted, and to basically seal it so you can wet sand the rusted surface clean. Once you're satisfied, carefully cover the cone and then repaint with some Krylon satin black.. Once dry, remove the foam pieces supporting the cone, run a bead of Aileen's tacky glue around the circumference and glue the cone back into position while checking for any VC rub. Do this a lot! Again, once satisfied, weigh the cone edges down with a jar or similar to hold it in place while the glue dries.
Glenn

 

[ra.ra]

Glenn's sound advice arrived just as I was typing. Before you go ahead with repair efforts, do confirm that the tweeter is functional.That peeling effect is quite common but is a fairly easy fix. Pic attached shows my first attempt at this where I did not re-glue properly. I have done this several times since with good results. Definitely clean up the metal a bit and I agree that Aileen's, white glue works just fine.

 

[Peterchris]

Thanks, guys, for the help!!!

How do I check for VC rub? I just did a search, and found that 'VC' is the voice coil. I assume that's the copper winding that I can see at the bottom of the cone? There's a white jelly-like substance where that coil sits at the back of the speaker. I'm attaching a photo. I wonder if that coil was not supposed to detach from the back of the speaker. Did I break it?

 

[GD70]

Thanks, guys, for the help!!!

How do I check for VC rub? I just did a search, and found that 'VC' is the voice coil. I assume that's the copper winding that I can see at the bottom of the cone? There's a white jelly-like substance where that coil sits at the back of the speaker. I'm attaching a photo. I wonder if that coil was not supposed to detach from the back of the speaker. Did I break it? View attachment 1446593

Yes, the VC is the wire wound former. You only broke it if the very thin wires going from the VC to the terminals have broken. If so, they could be resoldered together.

 

[Peterchris]

Thanks, they're still attached. I'll try sanding and painting it...

 

[Tim D]

Make sure when sanding that none of the sand or debris gets into the channel that the VC sits in. That would be bad.

 

[GD70]

Make sure when sanding that none of the sand or debris gets into the channel that the VC sits in. That would be bad.

Agree, that's why I noted to wet sand, and use the foam to raise the cones and block any debris for getting into the VC.

 

[ra.ra]

There's a white jelly-like substance where that coil sits at the back of the speaker.

Good advice from everyone. I don't think I've ever seen a working version of this tweeter dis-assembled this much, and I presume that white blob is silicone grease, which is meant to dissipate heat build-up from the voice coil. That's a great pic, thanks.