• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

AR9LS amp recommendations

CincyisHome

New Member
Looking for some advice on upgrading the sound of my AR9LS speakers. They truly sound fantastic but I’m looking for a bit more thump/slam on the low end and a bit more top end sparkle. Can this be achieved?

I have achieved this sound when paired with a second set of speakers but I really just want to run these on their own to keep the imaging intact. On their own they have fantastic imaging, soundstage and mid range is sublime. Bass is great as well. These AR9LS are the best speaker I’ve owned but I’d describe the sound as more warm than I’d like and on the tame side. They are loud and clean sounding.

I’d love to find monoblocks to run these but I am okay with a stereo amp.

Current setup:

- B&K 200.2 stereo amp which handles them with ease (350wx2 into 4ohms)
- Preamp: Denon PRA-1500 (sometimes my Kenwood KA-8150 preamp out; not much difference)
- AR9LS speakers have been completely redone and have the AR9LSI crossover mod. These are not biampable to my knowledge.IMG_9146.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Well, for vintage Solid State, I'm running Adcom GFA-565 mono-blocks.

850 watts into 2 ohms should run about any speaker.

They had issues with the capacitors leaking, so be careful. There are new boards available for repair/restoration. Just replacing the caps is a no-no on these. The boards need replacing, also.

You stated a crossover mod was performed. Was the rest of the crossover upgraded? The speakers can be pushing 50 years old.
 
Fairly inefficient (but great sounding) speakers; besides wattage, which you seem to have in the B&K, your speakers may prefer amps with high reserve capacitance... say in the order of 80,000 uF + to bring out the best in them.
 
Well, for vintage Solid State, I'm running Adcom GFA-565 mono-blocks.

850 watts into 2 ohms should run about any speaker.

They had issues with the capacitors leaking, so be careful. There are new boards available for repair/restoration. Just replacing the caps is a no-no on these. The boards need replacing, also.

You stated a crossover mod was performed. Was the rest of the crossover upgraded? The speakers can be pushing 50 years old.
Yes, everything was updated in the speakers.

Do you own these speakers and run them off 565 monos? If so, how do they compare to my description of the sound?

I see a pair of GFA-565 monoblocks for sale near me for $1300. Seems like a good deal but like you mentioned, the leaky boards make me wary.
 
Yes, everything was updated in the speakers.

Do you own these speakers and run them off 565 monos? If so, how do they compare to my description of the sound?

I see a pair of GFA-565 monoblocks for sale near me for $1300. Seems like a good deal but like you mentioned, the leaky boards make me wary.

I do not own AR9s. Had a chance to get them more than once, but I don't have the room for them.

I have had some towers that gobbled up power, mostly Arnie Nudell-era Infinity speakers. Didn't have room for them, either.

Currently running Magnepans with the 565s.
 
Fairly inefficient (but great sounding) speakers; besides wattage, which you seem to have in the B&K, your speakers may prefer amps with high reserve capacitance... say in the order of 80,000 uF + to bring out the best in them.
What is reserve capacitance? I’ve never heard it before and how does it relate? Would that be in the crossover or the amplifier?Is it the same as “headroom” is used describing amplfiers?
 
According to what I have read the speaker was rated at 175 watts but allowed 400 watt peaks. So Seeing how it's a 4 ohm speaker with a special compensating networks to keep the impedance from dropping below 4 ohms by the two 4 ohm woofers operating in parallel I would stick to those factory ratings. So if you were using Mcintosh amps with power guard I wouldn't go much bigger than 300 watts per channel as most of them will put out 25 to 33% more power than rated while meeting specs. So thats 300 + 100 equals 400. Now the newest amps can put out 3 db more power in peaks than the previous generations. But they can't do it all day 24/7 like the older amps. Other amps with out power guard I would be very careful going much over 200 watts for peaks because the mid range and tweeter are are not as robust as some newer designs today. Of course they are not replaceable! So take it easy. Yes you can use larger amps so they will never clip, but all it take is one loud crescendo and then your speakers will be destroyed. Mac puts peak reading meters on their amps for a reason.
 
You should be fine with your current BK amp, If you want to get more power on the cheap, you can get a Crown amp, there are everywhere
 
According to what I have read the speaker was rated at 175 watts but allowed 400 watt peaks. So Seeing how it's a 4 ohm speaker with a special compensating networks to keep the impedance from dropping below 4 ohms by the two 4 ohm woofers operating in parallel I would stick to those factory ratings. So if you were using Mcintosh amps with power guard I wouldn't go much bigger than 300 watts per channel as most of them will put out 25 to 33% more power than rated while meeting specs. So thats 300 + 100 equals 400. Now the newest amps can put out 3 db more power in peaks than the previous generations. But they can't do it all day 24/7 like the older amps. Other amps with out power guard I would be very careful going much over 200 watts for peaks because the mid range and tweeter are are not as robust as some newer designs today. Of course they are not replaceable! So take it easy. Yes you can use larger amps so they will never clip, but all it take is one loud crescendo and then your speakers will be destroyed. Mac puts peak reading meters on their amps for a reason.
Actually, I believe it is only the AR-9 that has the impedance compansation for its two 12" AR woofers, not the AR-9LS.
 
Well, for vintage Solid State, I'm running Adcom GFA-565 mono-blocks.

850 watts into 2 ohms should run about any speaker.

They had issues with the capacitors leaking, so be careful. There are new boards available for repair/restoration. Just replacing the caps is a no-no on these. The boards need replacing, also.

You stated a crossover mod was performed. Was the rest of the crossover upgraded? The speakers can be pushing 50 years old.
Yes, everything was updated in the speakers.

Do you own these speakers and run them off 565 monos? If so, how do they compare to my description of the sound?

I see a pair of GFA-565 monoblocks for sale near me for $1300. Seems like a good but like you
According to what I have read the speaker was rated at 175 watts but allowed 400 watt peaks. So Seeing how it's a 4 ohm speaker with a special compensating networks to keep the impedance from dropping below 4 ohms by the two 4 ohm woofers operating in parallel I would stick to those factory ratings. So if you were using Mcintosh amps with power guard I wouldn't go much bigger than 300 watts per channel as most of them will put out 25 to 33% more power than rated while meeting specs. So thats 300 + 100 equals 400. Now the newest amps can put out 3 db more power in peaks than the previous generations. But they can't do it all day 24/7 like the older amps. Other amps with out power guard I would be very careful going much over 200 watts for peaks because the mid range and tweeter are are not as robust as some newer designs today. Of course they are not replaceable! So take it easy. Yes you can use larger amps so they will never clip, but all it take is one loud crescendo and then your speakers will be destroyed. Mac puts peak reading meters on their amps for a reason.

Thanks for the info. From what I’ve read, these AR9LS speakers will regularly drop below 4ohms. Ive been running them with my B&K amp (350w @ 4ohms) for nearly two years. The speakers sound good but maybe they would sound even better with more power.

Also, the B&K amp is supposedly a pretty warm sounding amp and these AR9LS speakers also have a warm sound profile so maybe a more neutral sounding amp would be a better match for my sound preference.
 
Back
Top Bottom