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ARC SP3A-1 Repair Advice

TSmith8605

Senile Member
Subscriber
I recently inherited this pre-amp and got around to checking it.

After complete cleaning of controls with F5 faderlube and cleaning of connections / tube sockets with D5 DeOxit, and testing (good) all 8 tubes, I turned it on and found the following problems:

1. The tone-control-defeat button does not latch easily and one must push it in two or three times until it stays in (engaging the tone and contour controls). Is there any fix for this? Getting at / inside this switch looks daunting for either repair or replacement. It is one of about 5 buttons in a row and in an assembly of buttons.

2. The balance control does not work correctly - specifically, the rear pot does not track with the front pot when rotating to the right. I can see a little plastic part on the back of the rear pot that does not always follow the front pot when the dial is turned. With some fooling around, one can get the pre-amp in balance and the actual individual pots work correctly with no noise but the physical connection between the two pots is not working correctly. Can this be repaired or is a suitable replacement control available?

3. Hum, not super loud but needs to be fixed. I can work this some more; likely an issue with the PS and the documentation is pretty good, so I suspect I can fix this. May be subject of a future post.

4. No pilot light - easy fix.

I am concerned mostly about being able to fix the tone push button and balance control.

History:
A friend bought this new cc. 1976 or '77. In the mid eighties, I re-capped the audio circuits with Rel brand poly caps (the same type used by ARC in their '80s stuff) and metal film resistors. I also replaced the volume control with a stepped-Alps control sourced from ARC at that time. I did not touch the PS. The pre-amp sounded really great then and I gave it back to my friend and sorta lost track of it. Very recently, that friend pulled it out of the closet and just gave it to me. I see a sticker on it now that says it was repaired in 1992 and I see that a lot but not all of the PS caps have been replaced. I suspect that some of the caps not then replaced now need to be replaced and are the cause of the hum.

Other than the issues mentioned above, everything seems to be working. All 8 tubes have unreadable labels, and are not the ones in there back in the '80s. All 8 (16) measured within 1% of each other and good on the emissions test on my tube tester, so I think they're fine.

Hoping for advice from anyone experienced, especially on items 1 and 2 above.

Thanks,
 
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The guy you need to talk to is member arts. I'm sure he will see this and respond. Outside of ARC, I doubt anyone knows the SP3 better than him.

BillWojo
 
I've worked on many, have 3 myself. I also have many parts. Owned one since 1976.
 
The hum is probably the regulator, shot from the power supply caps getting leaky. The regulator goes, taking the 9 zener diodes with it. I'm rebuilding a power supply for one of them as I write this.
 
Measure the voltage at the emitter of the regulator, if it's 500 volts or so the regulator and zener diodes are burnt out. If it's below 440 or so, the first capacitors after the high voltage diode bridge is pulling the B+ down. Either condition will cause a hum.
 
Do you have a schematic? They made a few different configurations of the power supply circuit boards, depending on the availability of capacitors. One version actually doesn't match the schematic exactly, I have one of those on my bench as I write this. Owned mine since around 1977, owned 30 others, prefer an SP3A-1.
 
I've got a 10 pack of the incandescent light bulbs used for this preamp. For sure don't need em all. The other bulb is a neon and they are not interchangeable.

Repair of the balance control is probably the correct route to take as there aren't many balance controls available anymore. Be nice if there was a source for a good replacement for this unit.

The Alps stepped volume control is a wonderful upgrade. That big knob with those steps is a real treat to use. The best tactile feel of any of the volume controls I have used.

Does the preamp have white 1½" x 3/4" sticker with A-1 typed on it just in front of the transformer or labeled on the back as an SP-3A-1?

Curious because if it is not an A-1 and is an A, maybe someone has the modification manual to make this upgrade. I'd like to do that for my SP-3A.

Hope you get a good answer for your two serious concerns.
 
I have all the paperwork for all the mods done over the years by ARC. The biggest is taking out the buffer in the phono stage.
 
The A-1 sticker applies to the power supply changes ARC made. They also made an upgrade called the SP3-B, which I have one of, which contains the power supply for the later SP6.
 
And of course the complete rebuild to the SP-3C which some consider a different amp.

Would like to see the 3A to 3A-1 mod sheet as I would like to do that to mine.
 
A friend has two SP-3C's, which do sound different in my opinion. I'll see what I can come up with, don't know if I have the A to A-1 mod because that one was done at the factory.
 
I believe I have the rest cause I bought my first one from the original owner, got it with the paperwork.
 
Measure the voltage at the emitter of the regulator, if it's 500 volts or so the regulator and zener diodes are burnt out. If it's below 440 or so, the first capacitors after the high voltage diode bridge is pulling the B+ down. Either condition will cause a hum.

Finally got some time with it today and poked around a lot. The two voltages you ask about are about 509 VDC and 436 VDC so they look good. Voltages across the zener and all the other diodes look correct. B+1, 2 and 4 are also 436 VDC. B+5 and B+3 come from extra isolation circuit (C41 and half of C45) and are for the first tube in each of the phono (V1) and line (V4) sections respectively. B+5 is reading about 335 VDC but is stable. Also, the manual has scope pictures showing that no ripple should be seen on these lines on a 20 mV/div scale but I'm seeing about 20 to 30 mV p-p with my scope and RMS values consistent with that on my Fluke DVM. Also, the plate voltages on V1 are about 10% low (all the other voltages at V1 are a tiny bit high) while the plate voltages on V2 (which uses B+4) are only about 3% low.

I cannot find anywhere in the manual what the correct voltage should be for B+5 but 335 VDC seems like it might be low. Do you know the correct value for B+5?

I suspect the half of C41 that supports B+3 and B+5 is not holding up. This looks to be one of the several capacitors that were replaced by a tech in 1992.

I guess I could just replace C41 and see if that fixes the hum, but it would be nice to know the correct value for B+5 before I do that.

I think this is consistent with the hum being pretty quiet for a line source and louder when phono is switched in and also varies with the volume. The preamp plays and the hum is not as loud as the music, which is also consistent with most of the PS working.

BTW, the sticky tone defeat switch is now working perfectly - I did not do anything to it, it just works now. Also, the pilot bulb is replaced and working.

Thanks for the interest and help.
 
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I've got a 10 pack of the incandescent light bulbs used for this preamp. For sure don't need em all. The other bulb is a neon and they are not interchangeable.

Repair of the balance control is probably the correct route to take as there aren't many balance controls available anymore. Be nice if there was a source for a good replacement for this unit.

The Alps stepped volume control is a wonderful upgrade. That big knob with those steps is a real treat to use. The best tactile feel of any of the volume controls I have used.

Does the preamp have white 1½" x 3/4" sticker with A-1 typed on it just in front of the transformer or labeled on the back as an SP-3A-1?

Curious because if it is not an A-1 and is an A, maybe someone has the modification manual to make this upgrade. I'd like to do that for my SP-3A.

Hope you get a good answer for your two serious concerns.

Sorry missed this before. Lettering on the back panel says "SP-3A-1" and there are no stickers except one inside advising the use of high-quality tubes.
 
. . .Repair of the balance control is probably the correct route to take as there aren't many balance controls available anymore. Be nice if there was a source for a good replacement for this unit. . .

I have no idea how to repair the balance control. It is a mechanical linkage issue between the two pots. The problem is, that the balance control is usable right now and you can set the balance anywhere, but you have to rotate all the way to the right first and then set it. If no replacements are available and I attempt to fix this one but instead make it worse, the whole preamp is screwed.

Still not sure how to proceed with this.
 
soon enough someone will dissect a balance control and figure out how to repair it. I guess we just need to wait longer. No reason to dive in until absolutely necessary.
 
It does sound like your regulated B+ is fine. Let me see if I have the correct value for B+5, I have three of them so I can measure one if I have to. Just sent one back to Portland last week after replacing all can caps in the power supply. If your not getting ripple on the 440 volt line, there shouldn't be any after that unless the circuit is introducing it. I'm starting to wonder if the filaments for the first tubes aren't being raised above ground like they are in the circuit. There are two filament windings in the transformer, one is raised above ambient by means of a B+ tap. If that isn't happening, those tubes may be magnifying a small amount of filament ripple.
 
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