It could be extremely simple. If I were doing it, I would use the parameters shown on the datasheet, with 155 volts on the plates and a 3333 ohm (or approximately equal) cathode resistor to create a 20 volt cathode voltage (aka cathode bias the thing).
What I would look into before doing anything with these is why the datasheet shows the class B PP amplifiers having the grid at 0 volts, and the current at 4 ma, whereas the class A SE type shown on the datasheet shows the grid at -20, current at 6 ma... it's like one expects to be cathode biased and the other expects to have the cathode at 0 volts. Or maybe they expect you to look on the loadlines and find the proper grid/cathode voltage for the specified current, and the -20 grid volts shown on the class A amp is just... there for no reason, I guess?
I would certainly find grid curves, and better datasheets with stuff like maximum dissipation on them.
Things to keep in mind-- they're triodes, so they won't mind higher loads than expected, within reason. You could be able to use different taps for different ranges of headphones (8, 60, 120, 300, 600 ohms?) which you might need a specialized xformer for...
Then, you would have to either just not have it foolproof and assume the user is smart enough to plug headphones in before switching it on, OR some system in which you have switching jacks with their grounds all in a row and a resistor between the top one of them and the tap that properly utilizes that resistor, so that if you plug headphones into any one of the taps, you break that resistor's connection to ground and replace it with the headphone's load. I'll try to draw up a schematic later, or just a drawing, the idea is quite simple but I'm doing a terrible job of explaining it.
One idea I've had to utilize a higher powered amp as a headphone amp is basically this:
8 ohm load resistor in parallel with a 16 ohm resistor, in series with headphones.
Worst case, no headphones connected, amp sees 8 ohms, OR short circuit on the headphone jack, amp sees 8 in parallel with 16 ohms, which is darn close to what it needs, certainly close enough to make it not blow up. This also divides the power of a large amp for headphones, but since you have a tiny amplifier here you need to match the impedance of headphones, more or less a nightmare with all the varieties of them out there.