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Attaching 3-way plugs to 500-C 2-way rear outlets

I'm just curious about this scenario...
OP has his Fisher installed with a relay to protect his switch from getting all the inrush current. Would this not work as well with the added load from the subwoofer added into the mix from the courtesy plug??
 
The Fuxtor said:
I'm just curious about this scenario...
OP has his Fisher installed with a relay to protect his switch from getting all the inrush current. Would this not work as well with the added load from the subwoofer added into the mix from the courtesy plug??
Click to expand...


And, if there voltage supplied down to 110V and or is a thermistor in the loop too, I personally wouldn't power my sub off that supply anyway.

I'd have to see the schematic markup to say.
 
whoaru99 said:
And, if there voltage supplied down to 110V and or is a thermistor in the loop too, I personally wouldn't power my sub off that supply anyway.

I'd have to see the schematic markup to say.
Click to expand...
Good point.. I wasn't thinking on that side... Much better to use a power strip as suggested.
 
I ordered this thing:

Amazon.com: Smart Strip 6 Outlet Energy Saving Wall Mounted Power Strip and Surge Protector, Automatically Off/On Functions : Electronics

Buy Smart Strip 6 Outlet Energy Saving Wall Mounted Power Strip and Surge Protector, Automatically Off/On Functions: Power Strips - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
After all the investigation I did, I believe I know what to expect. We shall see. Not sure which device should be my controlling master. I'll try the 500-C first.

Thanks for all your feedback, Fisher Heads. (Sorry - it sounded good in my head and I remember some silly video song: "Fish heads, fish heads, rolly polly fish heads,..., eat 'em up yum"). No offense intended. Always interesting to see everyones' comments.
 
I would definitely want the 500-C to be the master. I like the idea of turning the Fisher on/off normally, using the knob. You won't even have to think about the sub, it will automatically be switched on. Your 500-C is probably in a convenient spot so the knob is right there, within reach.
If you used your sub as the controlling master, you would probably need to reach down and possibly behind the sub to get to the power switch. Not convenient at all. If you do that, you might as well just use a conventional power strip with an on/off switch on it.
Pretty sure you'll like the smart strip.
 
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I have a TP-Link smart light switch. When I press it, it turns on the lights of my "shop" and turns on a TP-Link smart outlet into which is plugged a power strip into which currently are plugged a Fisher 400 and required peripherals. I like to keep the wear and tear to the Fisher volume/power switch to a minimum since many are fairly worn now and expensive to replace.
 
The smart switch I purchased works great with the 500-C as the master controller. And I like nc's method of making a power strip the master controller. Great idea !
 
thornev said:
The smart switch I purchased works great with the 500-C as the master controller. And I like nc's method of making a power strip the master controller. Great idea !
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Doesn`t the smart strip you purchased have a master on/off power switch ?
Every power strip that I`ve ever seen in my life, smart or otherwise has a master power switch for safety reasons !
 
thornev said:
Bill - No it doesn't. It's made to plug directly into the wall.
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No master physical on/off power switch, doesn`t sound like it`s UL listed/recognized, might be something to be concerned about for fire safety reasons !
Does it have a external fuse holder or circuit breaker to protect from some one over loading its capacity, or an internal circuitry fault ?
All power strips are designed to plug directly into the wall, that`s how they provide multi socket power taps for devices to be plugged in !
 
Don't know what thornev purchased, but the ECG-7MVR smart strip linked earlier in the thread is UL/cUL certified per the documentation.
 
joebass3 said:
Yep has a circuit breaker and looks to be UL listed as well.
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That picture looks like what is called a outlet power tap that secures via the screw in the picture to the outlet cover`s removed screw, thus providing up to 6 outlets convenience sockets, surge/spike protected, or just standard un protected.

I ought to know, as I purchased around 20 Belkin brand surge/spike outlet power taps with a power and surge/spike protection status LEDs to install on the majority of my house`s original wall outlets over 15 yrs. ago to help provide some basic level of surge/spike protection for any electronic device that might be plugged into it like LED bulbed table lamps, fridge, microwave, etc.
Those type outlet power tap devices usually don`t have a power switch, but mine have a 15 amp soldered inside for protection against a catastrophic short from anything plugged into the power tap, or if the internal MOVs short from a serious surge/spike event.
Some more costlier power strips that I`ve seen over the yrs. power switch is also the strip`s built in circuit breaker.
 
If the nature of the thing is in question, I'd suggest following the link in post #24 and see for oneself what it is (or isn't).
 
whoaru99 said:
If the nature of the thing is in question, I'd suggest following the link in post #24 and see for oneself what it is (or isn't).
Click to expand...
Well ! I guess I`ve been living a sheltered life, I was fully unaware that surge/spike protected smart multi outlet power taps had been created !

After I bought my ~20 Belkin surge/spike outlet secured power taps & 10 smart power strips, I didn`t bother with researching and following any further evolution/developments of these type devices !

I only lost (it indicated via it`s protection LED that it`s surge/spike protection failed) one Belkin power tap after lightning hit a tree ~10 feet from the corner of my house around 4 yrs. ago, but the paper shredder`s SMPS brick power supply plugged into that Belkin surge/spike power tap survived.

All the 7 Belkin brand smart power strips that I purchased over 10 yrs. ago originally still in connected service, remain functioning in daily use.
 
This is what I use to switch on a Carver M500T power amp when I power on a preamp. It avoids sending large power surges through the preamp power switch. It also provides about 5 seconds of delay before powering on the power amp.
TrickleStar TS1104
 
The one problem I see with most of these strips is that the outlets are so close together. If a powered device has a wall wart, it blocks one of the other outlets.
 
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