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Attic Find: Utah Speaker Pair

According to the old man at the electronics shop, one is 50v NP 4uf, the other is 50V NP 8uf. He didn't have either, so I'll surf to Parts Express and order them.
 
Replacement Caps

OK, it looks like there are a wide range of manufacturers and types of caps. Some cost as little as .50 ea, while others are as much as $25 ea. :sigh: The difference seems to be in how they are constructed. Does it really make a difference what quality of caps you buy? :scratch2:

Parts express wants a minimum of $6.50 to ship two tiny little parts via UPS. :sigh: I know this could go via USPS for a third that or less. I gotta find a local source for non-polar caps.
 
StarMover - Take a look here:

http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

I just ordered some caps from them and the shipping (USPS) was less than $4. Polypropylene caps are generally regarded as far superior to NP electrolytics. You might consider some Bennics - they offer a 3.9uF and an 8.2uF - should be close enough to the values you stated, I would think. Solen offers the exact values you need, but are bit more expensive. - Mark
 
Happy to help.....let us know how the project turns out. - Mark

P.S.- Just for future reference, the GE poly caps they sell (not offered in the values you needed) are cheap and worked out great in fotno's AR4x's.
 
Mark's right, those GE caps made those 4x's sound marvelous. Well, the GE caps and all of Mark's fine work on them. I couldn't be more pleased, thanks again Mark.
 
Mental note made... You guys are tops. I'm a soldering session away from having those W-90s back to original condition.
 
utah speakers

i recently acquired a pair of the exact same speakers. i have them hooked to a sansui 881 they sound absolutely amazing. i would also like to find out more about them. when were they made? what are they worth? hook them up to a tube amp and you wont beleive how good they sound.
 
I got the new caps last night and soldered them in on one speaker. They are much larger than the old ones. I guess that's the difference between polypropelene and electrolytic caps?

When I plugged them up with the new caps wired in, I wasn't hearing anything from the mid or the tweeter. I removed the tweeter and tested again with a straight wire but still no good, although the mid is working when wired directly. The tweeter looks a little crusty so it may have to be replaced. Hopefully I didn't order the wrong size caps?! :scratch2:

Unfourtunately, we had company at the house last night so I had very little time to work on it. My wife loves to "visit" and chat with the neighbors and I'm expected to sit there and look interested... :worried:
 
Your problem could be the level control if neither driver is working. It appears that both are wired through the control, no? It's very possible that if you sent a full-range signal to the tweeter to test it, you fried it. Do you have any lose drivers laying around that you could use to confirm that you are getting a signal through the tweeter and mid leads? - Mark
 
Hello all. I figured I'd revive this old thread rather than start a new one.

I just picked up a pair of Utah WD66 speakers yesterday for $30 at a garage sale. I think they've been sitting atop the same bookshelf for the last thirty years. They were dusty, but otherwise in great shape.

They are three-ways. I haven't measured the mid and the tweeter, but the woofer is 12".

The first thing I noticed was how efficient they are. The second thing I noticed was how weak the highs were. My first thought was that either the x-over components were shot. BUT, upon closer inspection, I realized that they have L-Pads and they were turned all the way in the "wrong" direction. After turning them the other way the highs became much better.

I just ordered some replacement caps from Madisound. I imagine that after 30 or so years the x-overs could use an overhaul. I'm sticking with the same values (8uF and 4uF) and going with the Solens.

Even as they are, for $30, I'm happy with them. If I can throw a few dollars in new caps and a reseal job and squeeze a little more performance out of them - I'll be a happy guy!

-Ben
 
Hi all,

This is indeed too ironic! I just now returned from my Garage loft where I was listening to a "curb side/free" pair of UTAH A-90's I found on trash day in Portland in May. The A-90's are a 12" 3 way. This pair is "cosmetically challenged" but, when hooked up to my ol' ALLIED 333 Tube Receiver, I was shocked how good they sounded! I played the strongest FM station I could find here in the simi-sticks. The music was called CHILL music and it has lots of Electronic instruments, drums etc. Man, these ol' A-90's really have some deep Bass. The A-90's do have (as mentioned) a well balanced sound that I found pretty relaxing. I no doubt suspect that these ol' UTAH's could benifit from a recapping as I had the TREBLE switch cranked for best sound. Heck, I really can't complain for a pair of Freebies!

Regards,
SixCats!
 
So what happens if I plug these into my Onkyo TX-SR805? I just got it - until now I only powered the Utah's with an HK AVR-240.

130 Watts is the rating for the Onkyo. Am I going to fry these 30 Watt speakers?
 
If you show some restraint you should not hurt them, remember these are pretty efficient and it doesn't take a lot of power to run them pretty loud.

I have a set of these and without doing anything to refresh them, they sounded great, especially with tubes. I’d recommend trying some tubes with them if you have any access to them.
 
Unfortunately I don't have access to any tubes.

I am mostly thrilled with the quality of sound for the $50 I spent on these (including the new caps).

I'm not too impressed with the low-end, however, and I wonder if there is anything I can do to improve that.

I haven't done any frequency response tests, but Audyssey (on my Okyo) sets the x-over for these speakers at 150 hz, which seems high for 3-ways, particularly with the 12 woofer.

I wouldn't know how to begin selecting a replacement woofer that would work well with the other drivers and the cabinet, but I might consider exploring it if any of you here think it might be worth my while.

Any thoughts?
 
I would not replace the drivers you kill the value and the speakers original voice. I don't remember mine s being bass shy.

IIR these have paper/cloth surrounds? get a surround sealant and make sure they are not leaking. I don’t remember if these were sealed, but if they are, is there air resistance if you move the cones in? Do they come back slowly?
 
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