Auto Return Mechanism on PL-55X

[jazzzman]

Slight Detour: Step 3 replacing speed switch

Now is a good time to work on the speed switch and pots. It only takes two screws to remove the speed board that holds both the pots and the switch. (See first photo, which shows the board after I removed it.) After pulling the speed board out, I used de-oxit on the pots. My first plan was to replace the pots, but I was having a difficult time finding a pot that could still use the same knobs as the original one. The pots have a pretty good sized opening, so it is easy to get the de-oxit inside. See photo 2.

Next, I replaced the switch using a standard microswitch from partsexpress. As you can see in photo three, the connections are a bit different (the original has common in the middle, the new switch has common on the bottom (or top, depending on your POV)). Also the plastic cover does not cover the common prong. I soldered the wires without worrying about the fit with the cover and ended up having to cut part of the plastic cover, as you can see in photo 3. If you are careful and plan ahead, you might be able to avoid that.

The switch is wired so that the 33 rpm wire goes to the NO (normally open) terminal and the 45 rpm wire goes to the NC (normally closed) terminal. When you depress the 33 rpm button, the switch closes which connects the 33 rpm wire and disconnects the 45 rpm wire; when you depress the 45 rpm button, the switch opens which connects the 45 rpm wire and disconnects the 33 rpm wire.

Photo 4 shows the assembly after I reinserted it.

Easily done, now back to the oiling and greasing!

 

[jazzzman]

Success!!

I cleaned the auto-return mechanism by applying 91% isopropyl alcohol with cotton swabs (I used the ones for cosmetics that have very stiff cotton ends for scrubbing, unlike the softer Q-tip brand), pipe cleaners and index card strips. I removed the e-clip on the post holding the two plastic levers shown in post 20. (The photo shows the post after the e-clip was removed.) I was then able to slide the levers up and down the post (I removed the top lever, but did not disconnect the spring) and thoroughly cleaned the post. All in all, the mechanism seemed pretty clean. I did get some black on several pipe cleaners and a bunch of swabs, but not as much as I was expecting.

I then applied fully synthetic motor oil (5W-30) to the pivots and synthetic grease to the sliding parts. The levers appeared to move a bit more freely, but they already had been moving pretty well so the difference was not dramatic. The critical release lever described in post 20 still required a bit of a push to get it to release the plate. I put a little grease on the notch shown in the first photo in post 20, but I did not notice any improvement.

I was a bit skeptical that my cleaning and lubing would have any effect. So I was happily relieved when I put it back in the turntable, put on a record and IT WORKED!

It seems as good as new. The problems I had been experiencing have vanished. No skipping, no jostling of the tonearm, the tonearm lifts straight up at the end of the record without any backtracking.

I should mention a couple of points. First, the lift mechanism does not have lube in a cylinder. The lifter rests against a cam that moves it up quickly and down very slowly. I put grease on the lifter/cam junction. Second, the metal arm that extends from the power switch has two screw holes for proper placement in the plastic cover. If it is not lined up correctly the switch will not be activated when the plate rotates. Third, getting the e-clips back on was a lot harder than getting them off. I understand there are tools that can be used for this, if I do this operation again, I will think about buying such a tool. I tried using my thumb first without success, then I used the flat blade of a small screw driver. It requires a lot of force and I was afraid I was going to break something, but I didn't.

Now I am off to fabricate (or, more likely, have fabricated) a dust cover. Finally, the recapping, which will be described in another thread.

Thanks a lot for all the advice from the Ak'ers!:thmbsp:

 

[lilwing]

Thanks Jazzzman. I'll be back with the results of your guidance. You are a 5 star AK'er. Wow. Also thanks Gridleakrick, Balifly, Studio 7 Wow.

 

[jazzzman]

Dust cover

I picked up the dust cover from a local plastics shop the other day. They did a really nice job. :tresbon:

That completes my refurb of the table. It sounds really nice with the DL-110.

 

[DrkHwk]

Looks Very Nice!

 

[JJCalvillo]

AKers, bringing back this thread because I'm having a similar return problem with a PL-55X.
• Arm returns when I hit the switch, but not at the end of the record.
• Adjusted the screw underneath, and noticed the tonearm would NEVER be able to move the plate the screw underneath contacts. It is spring loaded and I had to use some strength to move it. Lots of tension in the spring!
• Also am convinced the pin is never contacting the arm under the platter. Believe it is too far toward the edge of the platter and not moving/being pushed far enough toward the spindle to catch the pin;

So my question, is the adjustable screw under the platter supposed to move the plate it hits? I so I'm thinking the spring must be connected in the wrong place.

 

[JJCalvillo]

Got this figured out. Took the arm off under the platter that wasn't getting caught by the platter pin. It would slide on the shaft instead of moving out to the pin when the tonearm hit the runout. It looked like there was a washer missing and the arm was loose.

First I tried a piece of rubber (bike innertube), but it was too thick and the arm caught the pin but didn't return all the way. So I tried a small washer and that solved the problem. The arm was tight enough on the shaft to move to the pin, but loose enough to pop all the way back to the rest. 100% return rate with the washer.