Memory may tempt me, (i'm wrong enough at times) but I ALWAYS dig it back up from a service manual to confirm it first before posting.
Thus my posts
always take longer to do than they appear.
Pulling the covers to test / clean the relays:
the little tabs by the bottom won't STAY out when you go to the other side
get some shims, perhaps cut some smooth plastic off of a clear plastic beverage
container as shims to slide between the tab and the hole. Then pop the case up and off.
Contacts should be accessible at the top of the relay.
On the relay contacts:
Don't use abrasives, (like emery paper or sand paper) relay contacts can be plated (that's THIN!!) with some useful stuff and the abrasive strips it right off. Start out with a cleaner on card stock (like a business card), then try dry. Then deoxit with card stock and scrub again.
It's too close together for the pencil eraser trick...
there are burnishing tools, look like shims, that can be used (sparingly) to get down to the metal through the remaining smutz.
Burnishing tools are used to achieve a low microinch finish on a part.
Unlike other methods, like honing and grinding, burnishing doesn't remove any metal from the surface.
Rather, burnishing cold works metal to reduce roughness and leave behind a mirror-like, uniform, surface finish.
- Stainless steel strip, microscored to an ultrafine file surface
- Remove oxide and corrosion on contacts made of platinum, paladium, moybdenum, gold, tungsten, and silver
