Soundsmith/Peter replies:
Dear Phil;
For some reason, AK wont let me log on – I have tried repeatedly over the past year. Can’t figure it out.
Here is what I posted on AA a long time ago – you are free to post it from me on AK.
Posted by Retipper(M) on April 20, 2010 at 07:47:05
In Reply to: RE: Stylus Cleaning Habits....... posted by beach cruiser on April 18, 2010 at 17:39:25:
There are lots of ways to clean a stylus, but the warnings about wet cleaners are real.
The problem is that all epoxies are hygroscopic (they absorb water), and as they do, and then subsequently dry out a bit, they expand and shrink. This action can "eventually" cause the diamond to come loose, or the epoxy to loosen from the cantilever. The solvents used attract water as they evaporate because the evaporation is an endothermic reaction, causing the diamond to get cold, and condense water out of the air. One *could* blow some warm air VERY VERY CAREFULLY across the diamond ONLY sideways - after a wet clean, but blowing air will destroy most moving coil cartridges, and some, absolutely and immediately. Not recommended.
In terms of loosening the diamond, there are LOTS of variables. The physical manner in which the diamond is attached to the cantilever (through the cantilever mounting) is very strong, and will likely never let go. Other types of mountings (surface, butt or end mount) are far more likely to let go.
The problem is that wet cleaning is in fact often required, especially if there is substantial build up, but even with minor build up that a dry brush won’t remove. I actually use blue tac (VERY VERY CAREFULLY) but magic eraser works very well. The ME is a partially crosslinked silicone, much like an adhesive, and works in a similar manner to blue tac. The blue tac is a little more likely to leave residue, but if viewed carefully, works well. One must be VERY CAREFUL using blue tac. Press the diamond ONLY into the material, and remove it slowly. Bear in mind that both of these materials stick to the diamond, and CAN EASILY yank it off the cantilever. That's how they work - they stick, and yank. Since the diamond is a stick free surface, a few touchings with ME or BT generally works very well. Looks great under the mircoscope to watch its action. I don't doubt that the vibratory cleaners work well; I just wonder if they shorten the attachment life. Same with my teeth.
Be especially careful with cartridges that use TUBED cantilevers (boron or sapphire) as there are EXTREMELY fragile. Don't even look at them cross-eyed. The original MMC2/1 used a laser drilled hole for the diamond through a 50 micron (!) wall thickness of sapphire tubing.....so wet is great with them always and repeatedly.
I have been misquoted as saying to use a dry brush only. What I recommend is a dry SOFT brush (a cut down water color brush – about 1/8” diameter, cut down to 1/8” long bristles) is great most of the time, and a wet one infrequently. If the dry OR ME/Blue tac doesn’t restore clean sound, THEN use a wet brush (again the above WC brush is great).
The most important thing is to clean records well, and don't leave them out at all. That is the best way to keep your stylus clean. I also don't talk near them....or towards them. I found this out when I was using my Neumann lathe - its amazing how much fine misted spit (sorry) comes out when one talks. This fine mist is VERY visible on a lacquer. So when I take a record out, I talk in the other direction – or not at all. Most people really appreciate my not talking at all anyway, so…two birds… And since most dust is human skin…..I try to bathe at least one a month. And I don’t leave my records out. Did I say that already??
Yours in debris or diamond removal,
Peter Ledermann/Soundsmith
