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B&W DM220i speaker caps

G

Gazzz58

Member
Guys
I have had the above speakers from new in 1984 and have been wondering where the high frequencies have gone. I was thinking maybe my hearing may have deteriorated somewhat over the last 40 years which it probably has but I want to replace the caps hoping this may lift the high frequencies anyhow. Going by what I have read they should be well on their way out. File included.
Also, what do you think of the burnt speaker packing on the coil?

Appreciate your feedback
Gary
 

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Those caps are non-polarized electrolytics. Looks like two 8 uF and one 10uF. The easy thing to do is to replace them with new non-polarized electrolytics. The harder (and more expensive) thing to do is to replace them with metalized film caps. The film caps are better.

That burned coil would need to be replaced. I'm almost sure it's shorted. You'll need to find out what mH rating it is to replace it.
 
Dave1027 said:
Those caps are non-polarized electrolytics. Looks like two 8 uF and one 10uF. The easy thing to do is to replace them with new non-polarized electrolytics. The harder (and more expensive) thing to do is to replace them with metalized film caps. The film caps are better.

That burned coil would need to be replaced. I'm almost sure it's shorted. You'll need to find out what mH rating it is to replace it.
Click to expand...
Thanks Dave
Any idea where I would get suitable caps?
I've looked at a couple of sites but have come up with nothing.
Regards
Gary
 
StimpyWan said:
Is that coil burned out or is it just fiberglass stuck to it...? :oops:
Click to expand...
Speaker still goes Stimpy. It's probably done 2-3 hours of music but I think I will replace those coils on both speakers.
Just have to find where to get these bits I need.
Had a look on parts Conexion but couldn't find anything that resembles the numbers on the caps at least.
Any ideas?
Cheers
Gary
 
Almost any modern film cap will be better than those old NP electrolytic caps, which are likely out of spec now. Since you're looking at Parts Connexion, I'm guessing you're in Canada? You might actually save a few bucks ordering from Parts Express. Their Dayton branded poly caps are inexpensive and pretty decent. Golden ears don't seem to like them, probably because they are so inexpensive. The Audyn Q4 line is a good, affordable cap - and they are red, so they're faster, right? ;)

If Google is not lying to me, my bet is the ferrofluid in the tweeters has turned to sludge after all these years.

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...0V-Polypropylene-Capacitor-027-428?quantity=1
 
Gazzz58 said:
Speaker still goes Stimpy. It's probably done 2-3 hours of music but I think I will replace those coils on both speakers.
Just have to find where to get these bits I need.
Had a look on parts Conexion but couldn't find anything that resembles the numbers on the caps at least.
Any ideas?
Cheers
Gary
Click to expand...
Parts Express has NPE's for the 8uF and the 10uF caps. If you want to try something more exotic, PE has Film for both as well. 8uF and 10uF.
Any of these caps should be an improvement. Always match the capacitance as closely as possible. It's OK to step to a higher voltage, as that won't affect anything, just increase power handling of the caps. Of the more affordable film caps, the Jantzen Cross Caps are nice, and not too huge. They shouldn't be too difficult to fit into place.

Good luck...! :D
 
Buy some 8.2uF and 10uF caps here. As I mentioned, MKP is generally what to shoot for and provides the best results. You can spend slightly less for other caps that don't perform or sound quite as good. It's not really worth it in my opinion. The caps listed in the first link are better than bi-polar electrolytic, MKT/polyester, or Dayton MPT. If you're trying to keep it affordable while still using better material with higher performance, at least start with Audyn Q4 or Jantzen Standard-Z and go from there. I wouldn't replace the inductors without measuring them first. For instance, if they both measure the same microhenrys (uH) from one crossover board to the other, I wouldn't bother swapping them straightaway. Also, check out the new line of MKP Bevenbi capacitors as an alternative. The MKPA-S (silver) is their highest performing offering, followed by MKPA-C, MKPA-D, and MKPA-E. Prices are competitive and much better than Mundorf, but their distribution is somewhat spotty and still growing.

8.2uF & 10uF caps

Bevenbi MKP Capacitors
 
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Gazzz58 said:
Guys
I have had the above speakers from new in 1984 and have been wondering where the high frequencies have gone. I was thinking maybe my hearing may have deteriorated somewhat over the last 40 years which it probably has but I want to replace the caps hoping this may lift the high frequencies anyhow. Going by what I have read they should be well on their way out. File included.
Also, what do you think of the burnt speaker packing on the coil?

Appreciate your feedback
Gary
Click to expand...

If you're going to the trouble to replace the caps (which I'm in favor of), I wouldn 't replace with NPEs. Amazon has some inexpensive MKP caps under the Meccanixity and Cermant names that should be better. You can stand them on end if space is an issue on the board. I've used them in KEF, Energy, EPI, and Paradigm speakers with no issues. There are certainly better caps if you want to pursue them. I also agree with the non-inductive resistor option. I'm not sure what to make of that coil....it's hard to tell from the pic, but I've never once destroyed an inductor or seen one destroyed after years of being into audio and around the speaker business.

CapSwap.jpgmodded.jpg
 
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I agree - I've never heard of any of my speaker building buddies burning up an inductor. I would think the voice coil of the speaker, especially a tweeter, would open up first. It almost looks like glue dripped on that one. It would also explain the stuffing that's stuck to it.
 
The other crossover looks completely fine guys.
Oh, and by the way I'm in New Zealand. I want to do the caps in both speakers anyway so you've given me links which is fantastic thanks.
I'll have a decent look at that coil as well
Cheers
 
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