UPDATE: I made a comparison between B&W DM302's impedance curve and JBL L20T impedance curve, and here's what I got.
Despite being more sensitive (91 dB / watt / meter), the B&W DM302 is apparently harder to drive, with approximately 3 ohm dip between 200 Hz to 300 Hz, and 5 ohm dip between 10 kHz to 20 kHz. The JBL L20T, on the other hand, despite being less sensitive, is easier to drive, with merely 6 ohm dip between 150 Hz to 350 Hz (approximately) and 8 ohm dip between 7 kHz to 20 kHz.
So, is
that the reason the B&W DM302s sound more brittle and fatiguing than the JBL L20T when played out loud? Because the Sansui A-40 driving them starts clipping when speaker impedance falls below 4 ohm? So I need a more powerful amp?
Too bad my 220v to 110v power transformer went bad, and I've been down with sore throat so I couldn't buy a new one. Otherwise I could try my Yamaha RX-V663 (US release, 110 volt only) to drive the B&W DM302. The RX-V663 is more powerful than the Sansui A-40. With more powerful amp, hopefully the brittleness at loud volume will cease to exist.
I'm a tad disappointed to discover the B&W DM302 is harder to drive despite being more sensitive. I hope I could play around with tube (or tubey-sounding) amp. Or low powered, high output impedance amp like TPA3116. I mean, since the DM302 is pretty sensitive, then I guess it would mate well with low power amp.
I wonder whether the highly acclaimed
Dared DV 6C would work well with the DM302, and really hope so. Yes, its output power is only 35 watt per channel at 8 ohm, but it doubles down to 65 watt per channel at 4 ohm. Should be a good choice, no?