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Basic Recap Question

HiResDes

New Member
I was just wondering if you guys might have any tricks as to how you normally go about prying the board from the speaker. I'm having a particularly tough time getting the board out to start the soldering work. I thought about just trying to solder through the subwoofer hole but that seems needlessly tedious. My other question is how do you even get the capacitors off if there's a ridiculous amount of hot glue around them?
 
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I was just wondering if you guys might have any tricks as to how you normally go about prying the board from the speaker. I'm having a particularly tough time getting the board out to start the soldering work. I thought about just trying to solder through the subwoofer hole but that seems needlessly tedious. My other question is how do you even get the capacitors off if there's a ridiculous amount of hot glue around them?

What speakers are you working on? Make sure the xover board isn't screwed on. They're usually just hot glued.
Use a hammer or the handle of a screwdriver and tap the xover board out from the back. Pry off the old caps if there is a lot of glue, or heat the old glue. It's usually brittle and will come off with a little pressure.
 
Can't give you any advice without knowing what you're working on.

I can give you advice for my speakers.
Remove the six screws and it lifts right out the front of the cabinet.

As for the glue, different people like different ways. Some dig it out with a screw driver, some cut it out using razor knives, some grab chunks with pliers.
 
Boston Acoustics A150, finally getting around to a full re-cap, but the board doesn't seem to be screwed down but rather hot glued.
 
Thanks hammer and spatula worked out, getting the caps off easy with pliers, resistors are a bit harder but I think this is all going to work out!
I'd like to take this opportunity to point out the obvious: You're not in production, so you can take the time and few extra cents to screw the thing back down to a gasket. Which ever of your descendants that has to take them apart next won't be cursing crazy, old Grandpa HiResDes.
You may want to avoid the same hot-glue technique employed on the individual components by those hacks at the factory as well. A couple of 3/16" holes and a zip tie doesn't take long.
 
I finished it, but saw Porkloin's message too late, just glued everything back lol. Also my soldering job is messy as hell, hope no one else tries to work on these ever again.
 
I finished it, but saw Porkloin's message too late, just glued everything back lol. Also my soldering job is messy as hell, hope no one else tries to work on these ever again.

Do they sound better, as if a blanket was lifted off the speakers? I always recap only one speaker at first to A/B them and compare before and after.
 
Do they sound better, as if a blanket was lifted off the speakers? I always recap only one speaker at first to A/B them and compare before and after.

Was hoping the treble would open up a bit, but the biggest difference I can hear is in the lower midrange, and mid-bass it just sounds a bit fuller and I might just be imagining it but the decay seems like a bit faster on electronic tracks. The treble on these are guess will always have a slight veil to them, which I don't think I mind too much since I never have to worry about much sibilance.
 
Was hoping the treble would open up a bit, but the biggest difference I can hear is in the lower midrange, and mid-bass it just sounds a bit fuller and I might just be imagining it but the decay seems like a bit faster on electronic tracks. The treble on these are guess will always have a slight veil to them, which I don't think I mind too much since I never have to worry about much sibilance.

Play some jazz with horns if you haven't already. In my experience, the improvement on this type of music is never subtle, as opposed to guitar driven rock. I have a pair of Boston A150 that I hope to recap soon. BTW, I always use hot glue to re-attach the back plates, but either way will work.
 
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