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Battle damaged Marantz 2215B Wolf in Sheeps clothing: Help!

patfont

patfont

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I received a 2215B and USPS decided to ruff it up a bit, she is banged up pretty well, and dinged up but still strong and wanting to survive.

Here is just some of the damage:








Light bar blown right out of the housing, and plastic clips broken off!





Does not show it that well but bass knob took a hit and was tweeked:

 
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This is pretty much done now and I will post pics of the work and parts list etc.

Need some help with the right channel:

When playing the right channel has a slight distortion, it almost sounds like early clipping but is not, it also sounds like the woofer coil is rubbing but it is not.

So if you swap and attach the left speaker to the right binding post you get the same sound of distortion.

I flipped the amp input leads and the distortion still came from the speaker attached to the right speaker binding post, so this says it is the right channel of the amp.

The right channel audio setting is easy to set and rock solid at 20mv across both resistors.

All transistors on the right channel have the proper voltages at ecb. The right side amp board has been reflowed, and the e-caps were pulled checked and reinstalled.

bias pots have been swapped just to rule that out.

I am open to any options on where to go next, I think I am out of ideas.

The outputs on the right channel were replaced with

On Semi MJE15030 and 15031
 
I had just sold my Hitachi scope and Heath signal gen, to buy a Hakko 808. And am planning on getting another. I may use my cassette deck/signal probe set up. So as of this time no scope:no:







Overundr1 said:
Do you have a scope and signal generator Pat?
Click to expand...
 
Makes it more of a challange.
Check orientation c702 + towards h702 base then swap or replace h702 for starters:)
 
Overundr1 said:
Makes it more of a challange.
Check orientation c702 + towards h702 base then swap or replace h702 for starters:)
Click to expand...

Yes it does, I am kicking myself beleive me!

I have already replaced C702 with a Wima Film so C702 is good.
I pulled H701 and H702 and tested both on my Atlas DCA 55 and cricket they were good and then swapped the one from the good channel to the bad channel with no change.
While I am at it though I would like to replace it, what is a good sub for 2SA562AC, I have many transistors here but that one is not on my Marantz or Pioneer Xref list.

Here are the voltages from H702

Measured SM
e 21.42/ 21
c 2.129/ 1.5
b 20.58/ 20
 
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Just to humor me try using a polarized cap in the c702 position, can you tell if the distortion is anywhere near 120hz (ac ripple?).
I have (on ---occasion-- found ---certain---) Marantz units unhappy with np caps in polarized applications, however have chased down weird results only barely audible but measureable with my ST-1701 distortion analyser.
 
tried a 1uf polar e-cap and still no change. Could by 120hz as when played with less bass worthy material it is harder to detect, but indeed still there.:scratch2:





Overundr1 said:
Just to humor me try using a polarized cap in the c702 position, can you tell if the distortion is anywhere near 120hz (ac ripple?).
I have (on ---occasion-- found ---certain---) Marantz units unhappy with np caps in polarized applications, however have chased down weird results only barely audible but measureable with my ST-1701 distortion analyser.
Click to expand...
 
Close to the transistor's limits @34ma vrs 50ma max for the 992 but short term should be ok for diagnostics (easy to swap out) until you source ksa733c's.
 
As I recall the 2215b C722 supply cap (2200/35v) was glued down to the main board with C720 (0.1uf film np) right next to it. Check that C720 was not damaged during glue removal. Do not have a 2215b in the shop (at one point last year had seven or so all at once to rebuild) so if memory fails me please be gentle :D
And just for grins ohm out the M702 bulb as well.
-Lee
 
Overundr1 said:
As I recall the 2215b C722 supply cap (2200/35v) was glued down to the main board with C720 (0.1uf film np) right next to it. Check that C720 was not damaged during glue removal. Do not have a 2215b in the shop (at one point last year had seven or so all at once to rebuild) so if memory fails me please be gentle :D
And just for grins ohm out the M702 bulb as well.
-Lee
Click to expand...


I had replaced C722 supply cap with a Nichicon KG (2200uf 50V) and C724 which is a 1uf I had put in a Wima film cap. M701 and M702 both measure 6.3 and I swapped channels with still no change. There is a small ceramic disc cap of 150pf right next to the old power cap and yes in the glue, but pulled and tested good.:scratch2:

Also I put up the wrong # a typo for H701 and H702 it is 2SA564AC is the replacement still KSA733C?


I actually have 512-KSA733CGBU and I write what it replaces on the bag and I have it down for 2SA562?
 
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I know the 733 replaces the A562 and it would appear to work for the A564 also. It's important to get the 733 "C" in order to get the correct pinout - and it looks like that's what you are ordering.
 
ok this little guy is now fully operational, 1 flakey resistor, 1 resistor 40% out of spec and a bias trimmer that did not have the full 1K of travel.

Thank you OverUndr1 for giving me the initial push to get this done, was not really in the mood to check a bunch of components.

The 2215B is a sweet little amp and I guess this is no surprise to many. Within it's power rating and used in a small room with efficient speakers you would be hard pressed to best it. The 2215B excels at leading edge transients. I will say it has punch and drive. The initial pluck of a bass string or the leading edge of a horn riff and you sit up and take notice because I am only used to hearing that type of thing on say a Dyna Stereo 70, where the tube amp adds that little bit of punch and drive ("bloom"), I am loving it.

If you do any "near field" listening you will be blown away. I use a pair of small mission speakers in a desk top array in the office and tried it, WOW!

I will post up the rebuild and pics as soon as a get a chance.
 
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Here is the Power Supply Board:

With the Nichicon LKS (excellent audio grade cap when larger values are needed, along with space requirements) you will be using the alternate trace for a 10mm cap so be careful with polarity. All other caps are Silmic II, see crude diagram for diodes.





 
Congrats on sorting it out (applause). A great little receiver. Will have to try the Nichicons in the power supply next one I get in, the go to replacements in the past have been the 105c Panasonic's. Often overlooked is the 2215, as Pat noted the first watt or two with efficient speakers will impress. Also partial to fine golds and muse np's in the audio path on this one :D
-Lee
 
here are the finsihed pics of the 2215B have been busy it has been done for a while now. Within it's power rating you would be hard pressed to get more enjoyment out of anything else!

All transistors on the preamp board were done, and all but 2 on the amp board.

The pictures do not show it but the amp board got bournes trimmers, and due to a brittle dial bezel I put LED's in for the dial face.










 
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