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BBC LS3/5a design and speakers

mech986 said:
The Spica's did indeed use Audax (France) or Polydax (US subsidiary) drivers.
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I have a question.

I have a set of British speakers (Tangent RS8) that were (supposedly) made in England around 1979 - 1981 and imported into Canada. The tweeters are model HD100D25A. The little sticker on the back sez "POLYDAX - Made in France".

Did Polydax become the US subsidary at a later date?

Gary
 
Hi GaryP,

I am not at all certain, but my recollection is that Polydax was the US subsidiary of Audax from its inception. I had received some catalogs from their office in New York in the late 70's which detailed Audax/Polydax bextrene bass-mids and the textile fabric tweeters. I think the Audax name was not usable in the US but I'm not so sure about Britain. I do know that a lot of British speaker manufacturers and DIY designs liked the Audax soft dome tweeter - a very smooth sounding driver (although today many feel it doesn't have any top end zing - precisely why it was so easy to listen to back then). Falcon Acoustics was one of the primary distributors of Audax/Polydax products as was JustSpeakers (of San Francisco) and it's partner A&S speakers (Of Colorado) during the late 70's and 80's.

Tangent was one of a number of smaller companies that used various bextrene coned bass-mids combined with the better tweeters of the time - Bassmids made by KEF, Audax, Dalesford - Tweeters made by SEAS, Peerless, Audax, and Isophon of Germany. Some liked the Phillips products but those were mostly built in Europe.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Bart
 
It does help - thanks! An interesting history.

You mentioned Dalesford - they made my 10" woofer. :)

...today many feel it doesn't have any top end zing - precisely why it was so easy to listen to back then...
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Huh. I've heard "zing" from modern metal tweeters. Bright? Yes - and Ouch! Combine that with some modern remasterings and I will have a painful music listening experience.

Just my opinion, of course. But it'll be a very cold day in (you-know-where) before I give up my Tangents. :banana:
 
I opened my LS3/5s today. The cabinets have a production date of 11/2/77. The woofers appear to have 1077 as the date code. I found no serial numbers written inside. The exterior serial numbers are faint, but one appears to be SO582A. The other is too faint for me to determine. The last character could be a B.
 
Interesting crossovers. I've often wondered what they looked like.

I have all the parts to make LS3/5A speakers - except the crossovers.
 
I have a pair of the original Rogers 15 Ohm LS3/5As that I bought new in 1978. They have the Greaves cabinets, with teak over birch ply. I put in modern speaker binding posts, which I probably should not have done. Works better, but not Authentic. I used them for years, then put them up when I moved to larger quarters. I have pulled them out since then and used them a few times. I find the bass hump bothersome now, and I can't tolerate the narrow dispersion. They do have great imaging as long as you never move. Plus they just don't have enough power handling for any application in this house.
We had my speakers at AKfest in january and a few people heard them driven by my custom PP 6l6 triode Peerless amps. A nice combo, but I like more dynamics and better bass extension now. It's a product with great features, but limited applications in my view. Very good for an office system, where the use is near-field and the listening position does not move.
 
Hi Bauhausler,

Your description of the LS3/5a is quite accurate. It's limitations were part of the design as it was not required to work in large environments and, at the time, was not required to put out more than about 95 db. Near field response is what this speaker is mostly about. There are some who feel with the right sub setup, it can work quite well within its limits. The replacement of the input connectors is common as the original don't hold up well with use. AFAIK, the value doesn't change much with this substitution or upgrade.

Can you PM me with the serial numbers and any photos? I'd like to add them into my database. Also, if you don't much like them anymore, let me know if you are interested in selling them. Would much appreciate it. Too bad I didn't know about them when I visited Botrytis in Okemos in Sept. I would have taken a trip out to listen to them. Let me know.

Regards,

Bart
 
Hi GaryP,

Have you contacted Falcon about any crossovers? Let me know if you need any as I have a few of the 23 and 23aB's.

Regards,

Bart
 
Bart;
I'll drag them out and shoot some pix. PM me if I forget.
Cheers

mech986 said:
Hi Bauhausler,

Your description of the LS3/5a is quite accurate. It's limitations were part of the design as it was not required to work in large environments and, at the time, was not required to put out more than about 95 db. Near field response is what this speaker is mostly about. There are some who feel with the right sub setup, it can work quite well within its limits. The replacement of the input connectors is common as the original don't hold up well with use. AFAIK, the value doesn't change much with this substitution or upgrade.

Can you PM me with the serial numbers and any photos? I'd like to add them into my database. Also, if you don't much like them anymore, let me know if you are interested in selling them. Would much appreciate it. Too bad I didn't know about them when I visited Botrytis in Okemos in Sept. I would have taken a trip out to listen to them. Let me know.

Regards,

Bart
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Linn Kan Pricing

I was bound and determined to keep my original Linn Kan pair (see previous post above), but various other audio projects are calling -- quite strongly. So, I am considering (reluctantly, but seriously) selling my set. Before I put them on eBay or Audiogon, I'd like to get a view from all in this discussion of their fair market value; and offer them to fellow AKers.

Two rear corners of one cabinet are slightly binged, but otherwise the cabinets are in great shape (8+) and oil up nicely. Sonically, they are spot on (10).

They are sequentially serial numbered 027025/027026, and have the 15 ohm crossover. They have the original KEF B110 SP1003 bass driver and Scanspeak tweeter (see posted photo above).

Thanks to all for your knowledgeable help. I really think these are about the best monitors of this type I've heard. PM me for more photos if interested in a sale.
 
They are sequentially serial numbered 027025/027026, and have the 15 ohm crossover. They have the original KEF B110 SP1003 bass driver and Scanspeak tweeter (see posted photo above).
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As far as I’m aware the Kan never had a 15 Ohm crossover, that is very much an early LS3/5a thing. The Kan’s crossover is a far simpler affair that is nominally 8 Ohms IIRC. The Kan sounds very different to the LS3/5a, much more up front and dynamic, but a little tonally wayward – the Kan is designed to be used hard up against a back wall so has far less bass warmth than the free space 3/5a. Both are great little speakers, though very different in character, I’ve owned quite a few pairs of Kans over the years!(the site linked to earlier in this thread is mine).

Tony.
 
Tony L.'s Correct

You are correct, sir. I think I said once before in another thread that my Kans were 15 ohm -- and then corrected myself.

I got out the VOM and measured mine (again) and found them at a nominal 8 ohm, as you stated. I have mine on stands about 3--5 inches from the wall. Not a bass monster, we know, but very very accurate with classical and acoustic music (bluegrass, for sure).

Thanks for clarifying. Any idea of a fair price on this first gen Kan set, with a teak veneer (as I've seen it called)? PM me if you prefer; I appreciate your guidance.
 
Any idea of a fair price on this first gen Kan set, with a teak veneer (as I've seen it called)?
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They are a cult speaker in certain circles, and usually make 200-300 pounds in the UK (where I am based), I guess that equates to about 350-550 USD. I assume you are based in the US, and they are certainly rare out there, but the demand may be less as they are less well known. I’d be inclined to eBay them and be prepared to ship worldwide, either that or try putting an ad on pink fish media's forum (link in my profile) as they are very popular over there. Judging by the serial numbers yours seem to be a ‘mid period’ Mk1, and theoretically should have the Hiquphone tweeters rather than Scanspeak (both are very similar). Do yours have binding posts or flat 4mm sockets at the back? (this will help me to date them).

Tony.
 
Banana plugs

Thanks Tony L for sharing your knowledge. These have "banana plug" holes (no posts) -- which I assume are the same as 4mm sockets? Yes, I'm in the U.S. -- North Carolina, specifically.

On the bottom of each is a paper sticker with:

(typed) (printed by hand in ink)
Assembled V W
Tested L H
Packed L H

No dates though. I'm guessing these are the initials of the people who did the work. Or they're Roman numerals and I'm too stupid to convert to our calendar dates!

Again, thanks for your help.
 
No dates though. I'm guessing these are the initials of the people who did the work.
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Yes, they are the initials of the Linn folks who built them. Judging from spec yours date from between 85 and 88.

Tony.
 
Pix of 1978 Rogers LS3/5A

Here, belatedly, are the pix of my original 15 Ohm Rogers LS3/5As from 1978. There was a discussion of these up above a few posts.
 
Bauhausler: It looks like you added binding posts and kept the banana plugs. Did you have a reason for doing so? I figured I would replace my banana plugs, but I'm liking your setup also.

For those of you who saw the "before" pics I posted earlier in this thread when I bought my LS3/5a units, an "after" pic:
 
Thumpy said:
Bauhausler: It looks like you added binding posts and kept the banana plugs. Did you have a reason for doing so? I figured I would replace my banana plugs, but I'm liking your setup also.

For those of you who saw the "before" pics I posted earlier in this thread when I bought my LS3/5a units, an "after" pic:
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Actually I filled the holes from the bananna sockets and relocated the binding posts, as the holes were not compatible. Yours look perfect. Mine have years of dry air, dust and the occasional bird dropping on them, but should clean up fine. I'm considering deploying them here at my desk for late night listening. That is if I can relocate some of the office-swarf that covers every surface here.
 
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