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Best Cabinet Volume for L100T drivers!!!

ramin_audio

Active Member
I measured the cabinet volume of the L100T. I want to build new cabinets with 1" MDF. I have two issues:

The cabinet volume.
What is the best cabinet volume for the L100T woofer (2214H)?

JBL is very good in making drivers (esp. woofers!), but not the best when it comes to speaker cabinets and xo's... Specially, since the later version (L100T3) has a different cabinet volume!

Bass Port type, length and size.
I am going to port the cabinet in the front.

I am going to make the front baffle's width the same as L100T3, but may make it taller, so I can make the port at 3" or higher from the bottom of the speaker.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
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My measurements:

The cabinet dimensions are: 16" X 35.5" X 13.5"
In cm's: 40.6cm X 90.2cm X 33.7cm

The wood thickness is: 3/4+1/8 inch =~ 2 cm

So, the volume must be: ~ 36.6 X 86.2 X 29.8 = 94016.6 cm^3 =~ 94.0166 litre

There is also a chamber for the midrange. I considered it as a cylinder with hight of around 12 cm and diameter of 11cm.

I am not sure if I had to consider that too as volume loss... since I may use it in the new cabinet. It seems glued to the baffle and I may not be able to do that...
 
I measured the cabinet volume of the L100T. I want to build new cabinets with 1" MDF. I have two issues:

The cabinet volume.
What is the best cabinet volume for the L100T woofer (2214H)?

JBL is very good in making drivers (esp. woofers!), but not the best when it comes to speaker cabinets and xo's... Specially, since the later version (L100T3) has a different cabinet volume!

This is, of course, your opinion....right? These speakers were mass marketed so there were many considerations to take into effect. Getting the best "overall response" for the speakers, be able to sell them and make money, and be able to ship them. The L100T3's smaller cabinet still has basically the same bass as the L100T's and both are rated down to a respectable 35Hz. I have both the L100T and the L100T3's so it's easy to compare them.

Bass Port type, length and size.
I am going to port the cabinet in the front baffle.

I am going to make the front baffle's width the same as L100T3, but may make it taller, so I can make the port at 3" or higher from the bottom of the speaker.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

That should work but no clue how it will come out. I hope you have a program for calculating the port diameter and length plus the T/S parameters for the 2214H-1. If not, you're just guessing.

There is also a chamber for the midrange. I considered it as a cylinder with hight of around 12 cm and diameter of 11cm.

I am not sure if I had to consider that too as volume loss... since I may use it in the new cabinet. It seems glued to the baffle and I may not be able to do that...

It's kind of hard to know if it was factored into the initial equation or not but I would just glue those back on the back side of the baffle like they already were. Why would you not use them?
 
The L100T3's smaller cabinet still has basically the same bass as the L100T's and both are rated down to a respectable 35Hz.
They also rated them up to 27KHz, but I know the 035Ti only goes up to 20KHz (+- 3db).

When comparing the bass in them, what were the differences?

I hope you have a program for calculating the port diameter and length plus the T/S parameters for the 2214H-1. If not, you're just guessing.
No, I don't have that program. What is the name of the program?
 
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong (and maybe even if I'm not), but I think that JBL was using computer aided design earlier than most companies that made speakers. Their speakers may not have the response curve you want out of them, but they have the curve that JBL wanted out of them.
 
No, I don't have that program. What is the name of the program?

WinISD is an easy to use program for determining cabinet sizes and port dimensions.

http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisd

This program will give you a recommended box size and tuning, but you can adjust the size and see what happens to the bass response.

Another factor to consider is baffle step compensation. If you are building a box from scratch I would consider rounding the edges. The L100T has sharp corners which are easy to manufacture, but probably not ideal for tweeter response. Look at the higher end models like the L250 or the 240Ti, these cabinets are probably closer to what the engineers, rather than the MBAs would have liked to produce.
 
WinISD is an easy to use program for determining cabinet sizes and port dimensions.

http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisd

This program will give you a recommended box size and tuning, but you can adjust the size and see what happens to the bass response.
Thanks a lot. :thmbsp:

Another factor to consider is baffle step compensation. If you are building a box from scratch I would consider rounding the edges. The L100T has sharp corners which are easy to manufacture, but probably not ideal for tweeter response. Look at the higher end models like the L250 or the 240Ti, these cabinets are probably closer to what the engineers, rather than the MBAs would have liked to produce.
This is what I am thinking about.

I am thinking, maybe I can screw the front baffle 6mm deeper than the edges of the side walls, and glue a 6mm neoprene sheet on the front baffle to make the midrange-driver and tweeter flush mount. This will reduce both the diffraction off the edges and the reflections from the front baffle.

I may be able to round the edges of the side walls too... :yes:
 
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