Best polish for silver pioneer?
- Thread starter H2s04
- Start date
OvenMaster
Baby, you're my winterblue
I just use Fantastik with orange oil, soft paper towels and Q-tips and old, cleaned, soft kids toothbrushes. I always wondered why faceplates get so grungy. I turn my knobs by the ends and try to make sure my fingers never touch the faceplates, as I have rather oily hands. (keyboards and pc mice are a b|tch to keep clean) Should I just use lemon oil on my Yammi's wood cabinet, or is there another way to shine it up? It seems like it's not sealed at all, just a stained veneer. Amazing shape for something so old.
Tom
Tom
uncooked
Active Member
I just used Monster tv screen cleaner on my SX-780 last night and it worked GREAT. I was just gonna use it on the glass with the nice soft shammy they provide so i wouldnt get any scratches. I decided to try some on the metal and it cleaned it EXCELLENT and it leaves a nice shine to it. I i gotta get some pics of my new baby :yes: I love it. You SX-1980 owners are VERY lucky this 780 has plenty of power for my hpm-100's and its rated 45 wpc 270 a channel i cant even imagine 
Unican_Eric
Pioneerious Collecticus
Well there we go folks, we have many a ways to clean receivers. Pick one and give it a try. I myself will try some of these new ideas. :thmbsp:
mattybumpkin
Active Member
Oxyclean Rocks!
Thnx for the tip, I had some for the laundry so I gave it a try on a SX-450 faceplate. Works great, I didn't even have to touch the faceplate, I only had to rinse it off. :thmbsp:
Regards,
"M"
Thnx for the tip, I had some for the laundry so I gave it a try on a SX-450 faceplate. Works great, I didn't even have to touch the faceplate, I only had to rinse it off. :thmbsp:
Regards,
"M"
I use regular ole windex....spray on a cloth ...and go to town!!.....takes off smoke ...and just about anything else!!...
If your getting anything other than cigarette smoke ..and finger oils on yer equipment....somethings wrong!!....LOL...
If your getting anything other than cigarette smoke ..and finger oils on yer equipment....somethings wrong!!....LOL...
OvenMaster
Baby, you're my winterblue
R2R, you're so right! I used it on a Zenith B/W 12" portable... and it took the numbers right off the knobs! :worried: For the rest of the time I had it, I had to guess at what channel I was watching. I think the ammonia dissolved the printing.Reel 2 Reel said:
Tom
leejxxxxx said:
The liquid Oxyclean I use comes in a blue pump-spray bottle and I bought it at Walmart.
Retro
I tried the oxi-clean on the grungiest I could find in my inventory. Put it on witha q-tip, let it sit for a minute or two, rinsed and dried and voila! Like new. My only concern is the with the active agent (what is it?), and whether it will cause the aluminum to corrode with time. I rinsed it off real good but you know about the parts per million thing...
Rich P
Rich P
OvenMaster
Baby, you're my winterblue
Hydrogen peroxide, Rich. Seems that hydrogen peroxide in really pure form and aluminum combine to make electricity via chemical reaction:
http://www.purdue.edu/UNS/html4ever/9912.Rusek.peroxide.html
Will this have an adverse affect, such as electrolysis? Pitting? Etc.? :scratch2: I dunno, but I sure wouldn't want to find out using aluminum faceplates.
Tom
http://www.purdue.edu/UNS/html4ever/9912.Rusek.peroxide.html
Will this have an adverse affect, such as electrolysis? Pitting? Etc.? :scratch2: I dunno, but I sure wouldn't want to find out using aluminum faceplates.
Tom
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pustelniakr said:
With the Oxi-clean, after wiping it off good, do what EchoWars suggests and give the silver it a good waxing afterwards. I've been using the Oxi-clean for over a year now with no noticeable damage to any of my silver-faced equipment. The only time it had an adverse effect was when I left it on the back (the black-painted portion) of a CT-F1000 overnight and it discolored (lightened it up) the black paint. That's why I only leave it on the silver face-plates for a couple of minutes and wipe them clean right away.
Retro
OvenMaster said:
OvenMaster...I knew I smelled hydrogen peroxide. I did not know that there was an anhydrous form. You learn something every day. :scratch2:
Rich P
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pocketchange
AK Member
Wonder if you can brush your teeth with it?
OvenMaster
Baby, you're my winterblue
I bet it'd make metal fillings shine like crazy if you tried, though.
Tom
Tom
I recently picked up a Pioneer Spec 4 rack system that had been sitting in someones basement for 7 or 8 years. Before that, who knows. The Spec 4 amp was on the bottom and was not only dirty and covered with grime, it had cat pee on half of the face plate. What a mess! I took the case off, top, bottom and the face plate. I soaked the face plate and the knobs in hot water with alcohol and liquid car wash detergent. That took most of the crap (or was it pee?) off but there were still what looked like stains left behind. As much as I tried to gently wash them off I just couldn't get them to go away. I was desperate and scared to apply harsh or abrasive cleaners to that faceplate. Finally, I tried some Dry-Wash-&-Guard fine metal polish. Yes, I tested it on the back and it looked OK. That face plate now looks like it is brand new! 
The stains are gone completely. 
I soaked it again briefly after buffing the face by hand with a microfiber towel just to make sure that all remaining product had been removed. Then I applied Dry-Wash-&-Guard cleaner and protectant. Wow, what a shine! I have used the protectant for years on my vehicles and around the house but I just got the fine metal polish recently. No residue, no streaks, no white crap in the cracks and crevices. This stuff is great! After cleaning the inside of the amp, this big old boy is lookin' good!
The stains are gone completely. I soaked it again briefly after buffing the face by hand with a microfiber towel just to make sure that all remaining product had been removed. Then I applied Dry-Wash-&-Guard cleaner and protectant. Wow, what a shine! I have used the protectant for years on my vehicles and around the house but I just got the fine metal polish recently. No residue, no streaks, no white crap in the cracks and crevices. This stuff is great! After cleaning the inside of the amp, this big old boy is lookin' good!
GADog
Member
I would guess hydrogen peroxide would not be around too long, so no worries. Besides the oxidizing power SHOULD promote oxide growth which stabilizes the metal.
I aluminum fluoride forms a ppt, so I doubt issues there either. I'll look into further in case my memory is incorrect.
In either case a good wipe with a damp cloth after should take off the chemicals.
Tedd
I aluminum fluoride forms a ppt, so I doubt issues there either. I'll look into further in case my memory is incorrect.
In either case a good wipe with a damp cloth after should take off the chemicals.
Tedd
Arkay
Lunatic Member
I used to use a mixture of dishwashing liquid diluted in water and baking soda. Baking soda is mildly abrasive when not fully dissolved, so you have to be careful, but it was the chemical action I was after. Put it on, let it sit for a minute or two for the chemistry to work, then very GENTLY wipe, then rinse.
This worked beautifully for several Marantz 22XX recievers, a Sansui 9090, and several other items I tried it on. Then I tried it on the Marantz AT-5 Digital Timer. Before I knew it, some bits off some of the lettering were disappearing! :sigh: :tears: I've often wondered if it happened because by the time that unit came out, Marantz was starting to cut corners and used a cheaper protective coating, or because that unit had previously been exposed to something (maybe years of direct sunlight?) which weakened it , or...???
Anyway, after that experience I have been wary of returning to baking soda mixtures, despite the fact that its chemical action (alone, not to mention the mild abrasive action) melts away cigarette-smoke residue and gives a great shine to metal surfaces. Now I'm using a bluish (ammonia-free) spray-on cleaner called "Swipe", which also works well and so far hasn't damaged any lettering. They claim you just wipe it off, no need to rinse, but I make sure to rinse very well, just in case. After a thorough rinsing under running tap water, I then dip/rinse in filtered or distilled water, to largely eliminate mineral-salts residue that could be left from tap water, before waxing for protection.
I also use a toothbrush (and some other small brushes), and sometimes q-tips, as well as cloths and very occasionally toothpicks to get stubborn dirt out of corner spots, but I only use those under good magnification and lighting, because they could scratch off the protective layer if used too vigorously. Sometimes DeOxit helps to eliminate stubborn spots of oxidation.
On that topic, there is nothing like detail-cleaning a brightly-lit surface under magnification. Anything that looks really clean viewed that way, looks NEW to the normal, naked eye :yes: (except, of course, for the scratches, which are then at least clean scratches!).
This worked beautifully for several Marantz 22XX recievers, a Sansui 9090, and several other items I tried it on. Then I tried it on the Marantz AT-5 Digital Timer. Before I knew it, some bits off some of the lettering were disappearing! :sigh: :tears: I've often wondered if it happened because by the time that unit came out, Marantz was starting to cut corners and used a cheaper protective coating, or because that unit had previously been exposed to something (maybe years of direct sunlight?) which weakened it , or...???
Anyway, after that experience I have been wary of returning to baking soda mixtures, despite the fact that its chemical action (alone, not to mention the mild abrasive action) melts away cigarette-smoke residue and gives a great shine to metal surfaces. Now I'm using a bluish (ammonia-free) spray-on cleaner called "Swipe", which also works well and so far hasn't damaged any lettering. They claim you just wipe it off, no need to rinse, but I make sure to rinse very well, just in case. After a thorough rinsing under running tap water, I then dip/rinse in filtered or distilled water, to largely eliminate mineral-salts residue that could be left from tap water, before waxing for protection.
I also use a toothbrush (and some other small brushes), and sometimes q-tips, as well as cloths and very occasionally toothpicks to get stubborn dirt out of corner spots, but I only use those under good magnification and lighting, because they could scratch off the protective layer if used too vigorously. Sometimes DeOxit helps to eliminate stubborn spots of oxidation.
On that topic, there is nothing like detail-cleaning a brightly-lit surface under magnification. Anything that looks really clean viewed that way, looks NEW to the normal, naked eye :yes: (except, of course, for the scratches, which are then at least clean scratches!).
