Best practices for cleaning up faceplates, knobs, and glass

[alchemist]

Wondering from the experience of folks on the silver faced 1960's/1970's solid state receivers, what's the best practice for cleaning the steel/aluminum faceplate?

Also the glass and knobs?

Thanks-

 

[Watthour]

Depending on the contamination, hot water, mild soap, and a non-abrasive cloth (paper towel or micro fiber) or soft bristle brush (china bristle) will usually remove most dirt, tobacco tar, and oily fingerprints/stains without damaging the anodized aluminum or lettering. Heavy tobacco staining will require very hot water.

 

[kaplang]

Keep away from the inside of the glass. Cleaning might destroy the numbers and or lettering if it is on the inside. If it’s on the outside still proceed with caution.

 

[Scott75s1974]

hot water, mild soap, and a non-abrasive cloth

This sounds very reasonable. And is probably generally good advice.

But I had a surprise with a early 70's Scott Faceplate. Soaked it in mild dishsoap ran hot water on it. Only to have the finish slough off. It wasn't that hot.

Ironically, when I tried denatured alcohol (to see if it was for some reason shellac to explain why the water got it...no) it worked fine. Didn't touch the finish. Then I tried a light application of lacquer thinner with the goal of re-consolidating the finish. I was trying to dissolve it just a bit to clear some cloudiness out. Nothing.

So, to my surprise, hot water damaged it. Straight alcohol and straight lacquer thinner just removed the dirt and the finish was impervious.

If I had to do another faceplate, I'd start with just a damp soapy rag and go slowly.

 

[orsen]

i like my ultrasonic cleaner with water and dish soap for knobs and switch caps
tho i have seen a few threads of peeps causing damage with ultrasonic

 

[Bill S]

I've had good results using Simple Green on faceplates, knobs, push buttons. It cuts through grease and nicotine nicely.

 

[alchemist]

This sounds very reasonable. And is probably generally good advice.

But I had a surprise with a early 70's Scott Faceplate. Soaked it in mild dishsoap ran hot water on it. Only to have the finish slough off. It wasn't that hot.

Ironically, when I tried denatured alcohol (to see if it was for some reason shellac to explain why the water got it...no) it worked fine. Didn't touch the finish. Then I tried a light application of lacquer thinner with the goal of re-consolidating the finish. I was trying to dissolve it just a bit to clear some cloudiness out. Nothing.

So, to my surprise, hot water damaged it. Straight alcohol and straight lacquer thinner just removed the dirt and the finish was impervious.

If I had to do another faceplate, I'd start with just a damp soapy rag and go slowly.

Was it an R30 or R70 series?

 

[SoCal Sam]

Dish soap. Damp, not wet. For oil and tape residue, and magic marker, naphta spirits. Works on metal and on clear plastic dials. I've cleaned this way for years and never suffered any unintended damage. Let the fluid do the work. If the plastic tuner lens has swirls or scuffs, use Nu-Finish car polish to polish. This works on BPC LED displays as well.

 

[Scott75s1974]

Was it an R30 or R70 series?

R7x series.
Mine looks like matte aluminum. But underneath the oxidized finish, it's shiny aluminum.

 

[jcamero]

Faceplate, no glass, Magic Eraser, damp microfiber cloth to dry, then a good quality car wax for protection. Knobs, a few drops of Dawn, mixed in water, and a soft toothbrush or equivalent.

 

[SaturationPt]

Magic eraser does a lot of cleaning, but very abrasive.