Best solder for plated binding posts?

[Susurus]

Noobie question, but I took nice pics...

I want a good connection between the end of my upgrade binding posts and the internal wire.

Here's what I've got lying around:

25w pencil
100-140w automotive etc.
various grades/composition of solder

The nice terminals are heavy so I think they're nickel or brass with a gold-ish looking plating.

Would make good little heat sinks. :sigh:

Getting them hot enough for the bolt-end/solder/wire to stay welded forever? I don't have any little copper loop things to bolt on, seems the usual way.

I'm aiming for this:

Thanks in advance. I'm doing all my speakers. Any responses appreciated. (Yes, really.)

 

[bolly]

of the irons you have in your pic, use the biggest, and use your thinnest solder. Remember, before you actually solder anything, when your iron heats up, clean the tip with a damp cloth, and touch a bit of solder so it covers the end and makes it all shiney(tinning the end). I'd probably make a loop with the end of wire you want to solder, then pre-bend it with needlenose pliers in the direction the wire came from(strain-relief). before I soldered it... OR, you solder a connector on the end of the wire and attach it between the two nuts with a lock-washer.

 

[avionic]

solder lugs....http://www.keyelco.com/pdfs/p77.pdf

 

[Dan ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ]

Rather than soldering a "bit" of the wire to the screw part (as shown), you'd be better off to unbolt the lugs from the cups and solder the length of wire shown directly to the lugs by laying the wire on top. Pre-tin the lug's length with solder and use your gun for the best heat. Then bolt the lugs back onto the terminal cups.

 

[Susurus]

(long rambling)

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

I guess between theory and reality, mighty Zeus placed practical implementation limitations.

I've got lots of those today. Like my timing, lack of temp regulation... or a 'third hand' stand. And a new spiffy finger burn. At least I tried...

Originally thought I'd attempt to reduce or even eliminate all simple pressure-contact surfaces, (maybe even go 'Studio' for one setup; solder directly inside an amp to the drivers inside the speakers.)

Hoping for the fewest dissimilar metal/metal interfaces; hoping that could mean fewer potential sources of problems like oxidation.

So now it seems many highly knowledgeable and Experienced recommend I sandwich lugs between those contact surfaces I'd hoped to avoid.

Okay, I can dig lugs. Especially since I've got 20+ pairs to go through; and that's less inhaled lead fumes too. (yes I use fans thanks.) I can focus more on upgrading internal wiring and deciding which deserve nice new caps, which to add bi-amp/combo/passive terminals.

Tinning the ends makes abundant sense (just read the marine-grade wires thread). Just makes it harder to use Phoenix Gold-style bananas. The hard surfaces make sustained contact not so sustained... Tried cranking down on one Rockford Fosgate banana and it broke the shaft. I'm gonna try alternates. Cheap ones I hope :thmbsp:

With DIY comes more control over destiny.

 

[BrassTeacher]

I'd suggest filing a the gold plating off the surface to which you are going to solder. Possibly the surface of one of the mounting nuts. The solder will take much faster to brass than it will to gold.