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Best source for DeOxit?

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Sansui Louie

Sansui Louie

Curmudgeon
We all talk about DeOxit and know of it's wonderful qualities...but where is the best place to order it, price/quantity-wise?

I, for one, am tired of being raped by Rat Shack for that tiny can...plus there's the whole "would you like a cell phone and some batteries rammed up your ass?" debacle.
 
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Parts Express (one of the sponsor banners at the bottom of this page) has a good selection of Caig products in different sizes, with a discount for buying in quantity.
 
Everyone should be aware that the pump spray version has mineral seal oil as the solvent vehicle and takes DAYS to evaporate per their literature.

"Pump Spray includes mineral seal oil as the carrier solvent. It is a very slow evaporating (takes days to weeks) solvent but non-aggressive to most materials. Once it evaporates, a thin layer of ProGold, DeoxIT or PreservIT remains."

http://store.caig.com/core/media/media.nl?id=802&c=ACCT113328&h=dc37063d87462e79a04a&_xt=.pdf

This should be taken into account for your application.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Bart
 
To stock up, PE looks like the right thing to do, especially considering site sponsorship.
But if you need it quick, and you have one near you, Frye's Electronics sells it - and most of the Caig lineup - at a decent price. I think I got De-Oxit D5 for ~$8 for the normal 5oz spray can.
 
Sansui Louie said:
We all talk about DeOxit and know of it's wonderful qualities...but where is the best place to order it, price/quantity-wise?

I, for one, am tired of being raped by Rat Shack for that tiny can...plus there's the whole "would you like a cell phone and some batteries rammed up your ass?" debacle.
Click to expand...
With all due respect to Caig and Cramolin (read their history some time, a fascinating saga of back-stabbing and general nastiness), I spent some time overseas in a region where 'proprietary' did not exist as it does here. Cramolin sold their ContactClean in 30 gram cans for about US$4. On the can it stated:

Oleic Acid 5%
Propellants and other hydrocarbons: 95%

Oleic Acid is a common fatty acid found in Olive Oil, amongst other things. It is used in metal processing as a degreaser, and also for cleaning brass clock mechanisms.
Cutting to the chase, I have made my own contact cleaner with 5% oleic Acid and 95% naptha (Coleman Fuel, Paint Thinner) with excellent results. You may install it in a rechargeable spray can, or do as I do, and apply it with either Q-Tips, an eye-dropper or toothpicks, depending on the use.

WTTW: DO NOT EXCEED THE 5%!! You will get a greasy mess. Less will take a bit longer, more will make a mess.

I will not state that this formula is identical to Caig's DeOxit, they are not getting off their secret formula, nor were their products sold where I was. But Caig essentially took the formula (and the name) from Cramolin whole-cloth. Draw your own conclusions. But it does work, and for about $20, you can have more-than-a-lifetime's supply. Right now, I have a gallon of the stuff for a $15 cost (oleic acid & Coleman Fuel).
 
I think everyone should mix gas with lighter fluid then slurp it up in a straw then blow it out their ass onto the pots... Course if you blow your nads off thats your problem..

Playing with chemicals is NOT endorsed by AK and if you do Don't even think of crying to us that your precious gear or life has come to an end !

For those that are dense

Mixing chemicals bad. Trying to sue AK cause you read it here ? Will get you a great big pile of NOTHING since we told you NOT TOO !!!
 
think everyone should mix gas with lighter fluid then slurp it up in a straw then blow it out their ass onto the pots... Course if you blow your nads off thats your problem..
Click to expand...

Ok Grumpy....you first. I'll run the camera. 3....2...1...rolling.... :D
 
grumpy said:
I think everyone should mix gas with lighter fluid then slurp it up in a straw then blow it out their ass onto the pots... Course if you blow your nads off thats your problem..

Playing with chemicals is NOT endorsed by AK and if you do Don't even think of crying to us that your precious gear or life has come to an end !

For those that are dense

Mixing chemicals bad. Trying to sue AK cause you read it here ? Will get you a great big pile of NOTHING since we told you NOT TOO !!!
Click to expand...
Now, who wound you up and turned you loose on the keyboard today.

Oleic Acid is a FOOD ADDITIVE, amongst other things. It is available MAIL ORDER, even in these troubled times.

http://www.chemistrystore.com/Oleic_Acid.htm

Coleman Fuel is availble OTC, but not through the mails since 9/11. Naptha-based paint thinner is also available OTC. Lighter-fluid is a particularly refined and thin naptha-based solvent, and hideously expensive for the purpose.

Caig DeOxit uses petroleum-based hydrocarbons in their spray material, at least according to their MSDS. The stuff is flammable.

When I see your rants on using isolation transformers, proper safety techniques and other basics when working around 500V+ audio items (or anything else based on line-voltage), I might consider that you know whereof you write when it comes to safety. I am not so sure if anyone here endorsed spraying a flammable liquid into an active piece of equipment, especially something using vaccuum tubes (hence the 500+ volts at times), but home-brew or Caig, the results could be ugly either way.

MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET Page 1 of 7
D5L
Prepared to OSHA, ACC, ANSI, WHMIS & 2001/58 EC Standards MSDS Revision: 1.0 MSDS Revision Date: 05/01/2005
1. PRODUCT IDENTIFICATION CHEMICAL RESPONSE CARD: 04
1.1 Product Name: DeoxIT®, D5L, 5% Liquid
1.2 Chemical Name: See ingredients listed in section 2
RESPONSE
TEAM PPE:
1.3 Synonyms: DeoxIT®, D5L, 5% Liquid
1.4 Trade Names: DeoxIT®, D5L, 5% Liquid
WHMIS:
1.5 Product Use: Clean, deoxidize & improve electrical contacts & connectors HEALTH: 1
1.6 Manufacturer’s Name: CAIG Laboratories, Inc. FLAMMABILITY: 2
1.7 Manufacturer’s Address: 12200 Thatcher Court, Poway, CA 92064-6876 REACTIVITY: 0
1.8 Business Phone: +1 (800)-224-4123 PERSONAL PROTECTION: B
1.9 Emergency Phone: CHEMTREC 1-800-424-9300/1-703-527-3887
1.10 Other Product Names: DeoxIT®, D5L-25C, 5% Liquid, 25 ml
DeoxIT®, D5L-4, 5% Liquid, 118 ml
DeoxIT®, D5L-12, 5% Liquid, 354 ml
DeoxIT®, D5L-32, 5% Liquid, 944 ml
DeoxIT®, D5L-5G, 5% Liquid, 30 L
DeoxIT®, D5L-55G, 5% Liquid, 55 gallon
2. COMPOSITION & INGREDIENT INFORMATION
EXPOSURE LIMITS IN AIR (mg/m3)
ACGIH OSHA OTHER
CHEMICAL NAME(S) CAS No. RTECS No.
EINECS No. %
TLV
ppm
STEL
ppm
PEL
ppm
STEL
ppm
IDLH
ppm
PETROLEUM NAPHTHA 64742-88-7 XS5250000 265-191-7 ≤ 95 100 NE 100 NE NE
DeoxIT® D100L TRADE SECRET ≤ 5 NE NE NE NE NE

The only question would be the exact nature of the "Trade Secret" as we can agree that Naptha is the primary ingredient by volume. Cramolin uses Oleic Acid by label. Caig may, or may not. But Oleic acid does work by personal experience.
 
Peter W. said:
Now, who wound you up and turned you loose on the keyboard today.

Oleic Acid is a FOOD ADDITIVE, amongst other things. It is available MAIL ORDER, even in these troubled times.

http://www.chemistrystore.com/Oleic_Acid.htm

Coleman Fuel is availble OTC, but not through the mails since 9/11. Naptha-based paint thinner is also available OTC. Lighter-fluid is a particularly refined and thin naptha-based solvent, and hideously expensive for the purpose.

Caig DeOxit uses petroleum-based hydrocarbons in their spray material, at least according to their MSDS. The stuff is flammable.

When I see your rants on using isolation transformers, proper safety techniques and other basics when working around 500V+ audio items (or anything else based on line-voltage), I might consider that you know whereof you write when it comes to safety. I am not so sure if anyone here endorsed spraying a flammable liquid into an active piece of equipment, especially something using vaccuum tubes (hence the 500+ volts at times), but home-brew or Caig, the results could be ugly either way.

:lurk:
Click to expand...
 
grumpy said:
I think everyone should mix gas with lighter fluid then slurp it up in a straw then blow it out their ass onto the pots... Course if you blow your nads off thats your problem..

Playing with chemicals is NOT endorsed by AK and if you do Don't even think of crying to us that your precious gear or life has come to an end !

For those that are dense

Mixing chemicals bad. Trying to sue AK cause you read it here ? Will get you a great big pile of NOTHING since we told you NOT TOO !!!
Click to expand...

OK, assuming the diplomatic corps is out, how many people think we should take up a collection to send Grumpy to law school? :naughty:
 
FWIW I bought a big bottle of 'red at a hamfest and used a toothpick to apply it. A little dab right in the pot/switch is much better (IMHO) than blasting the assy with the spray and having to wipe up the excess. Just my neatnut anal-retentiveness.

Usually in a deoxit thread at least one person will suggest WD-40 and quickly get razzed.
 
gonzothegreat said:
FWIW I bought a big bottle of 'red at a hamfest and used a toothpick to apply it. A little dab right in the pot/switch is much better (IMHO) than blasting the assy with the spray and having to wipe up the excess. Just my neatnut anal-retentiveness.

Usually in a deoxit thread at least one person will suggest WD-40 and quickly get razzed.
Click to expand...
WD-40 is ultra-thin kerosene, a bit thicker than Naptha, but still 100% volatile. It has its uses, but not as a deoxidizer.

Now, if you want a neat-trick for a lubricant that is _also_ 100% volatile, but compatible with more plastics and other materials than WD-40, ask for synthetic oil-of-wintergreen (Methyl Salicylate) at your local pharmacy or health food shop. It takes about a week to fully volatilize (depending on temperature, of course), but leaves no residue and is handy for loosening up stuck controls, fine-pitch gears and suchlike. Better than penetrating oil on the residue end especially.

The hardest part is getting over the smell....
 
WD-40 will...when you have nothing better around, as in the case where you're at someone's house and they have scratchy controls and your DeOxit is 75 miles away, at your own house...or it's 25 minutes to show time and the slider on channel one of the sound mixer is scratchy and nothing is open cuz it's 9 pm on a Saturday....work better than nothing at all.
 
botrytis said:
I am a chemist, microbiologist, and all around nut-case and I would not suggest mixing any of these chemicals up. That is dangerous!!!
Click to expand...

So is breathing.

Nothing like this is dangerous if you use your head. And if you don't....well, that's one less idiot contributing to the gene pool.
 
Do we get any discounts from site sponsors.

(trying to lighten the mood)

I think at this age, no one should have to be told not to mix chemicals. But hey, what do I know - I'm younger than 90% of the population here lol.
 
When you see my rants ?????


Ok buddy how about this. **** OFF !!!!!!!


This site is partially owned by me and last I looked its my ass thats on the line for you giving imbecilic advice when some dumb ass does what you say and decides to sue Audiokarma when they are injured.

Take your know it all ass and get the **** outta here !
 
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