best Vinyl to Digital tranfer

[rkay5]

1. For LP recording I use a Dell XPS M170 laptop with a E-MU Tracker/Pre(USB) Audio Interface 24bit 192KHz A/D and D/A converters, 32-bit processing USB 2.0 Hi-Speed Full 24-bit resolution at all sample rates
2. The software I use is Audacity. I record at 32 bit, 88.2KHz.

3. I save files at 24 bit, 88.2KHz aiff in iTunes.

4. To burn CD's, iTunes down samples to 16 bit, 44.1KHz on it's own.

5. For cable, I use some 3 meter 3 meter the E-MU Tracker sits with my audio rack

6. First my Thorens TD150 turntable (very modified) outputs to a Creek 4330R phono preamp board. From there, the tape out goes to my the E-MU Tracker. The headphone part has/ analog input and output with volume output control so I have a preamp for the Echo Indigo Io (which doesn't input level control).

7. The Creek 4330R (integrated amp) transfers the audio signal to the E-MU Tracker(USB) audio interface to Audacity (the computer recording software).

8. So why do I recorded at 32bit 88.2KHz and save 24bit 88.2KHz? Just do the math, 88.2 KHz/2 = 44.1 KHz. I have found that I get a better CD this way, than say 96 KHz/2.176870748 = 44100.00001KHz or recording at 16 bit, 44.1KHz. A lot my friend say my CD's made this way sound a lot better than what you get at the store. Oh, the 24 bit, 88.2KHz files sound really damn good. After burning a CD I change the files to Apple lossless in save in iTunes. I'm very happy with this set-up.
The E-MU is much better at what does and sound is better to, than the Echo Indigo. And I payed $130 for a new over at Ebay.
If want to some Hi end vinyl recording look it to the E-MU Tracker/Pre(USB) 24Bit 192KHz it does a great job.

 

[markshan]

So why do I recorded at 32bit 88.2KHz and save 24bit 88.2KHz so just do the math 88.2KHz/2=44.1KHz I have found that I get a better CD this way than say 96KHz/2.176870748=44100.00001KHz or recording at 16bit 44.1KHz.

I don't buy it. To a computer, math is math. It can resample by two or by 2.176870748 with the same ease. Otherwise we would be screwed when we had to work with circles...

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[ripblade]

Thanks everyone!

Looks like the M-Audio is what to get. Before i take the plunge, is there anything that will give me better sound quality recording?

Yes, a Mytek Stereo 96 ADC. I paid a premium to get one up here in Canada as they are not distributed locally, but in the US they are more affordable. Expensive yes, but you get what you pay for. I have mine connected via s/pdif to an M Audio 2496 card.

Don't forget to clean the records thoroughly with an RCM or similar before you begin. Digital is brutally revealing of analogue's shortcomings. If only it could capture analogue's strengths.

 

[markshan]

The EMu 1212 has the same A/D chip as the ProTools flagship. At $160 the sound is killer, even if the software isn't (it's perfectly stable, just wonky). I would highly recommend it.

 

[rkay5]

Well you say math is math.What talking about is down convert to a lower rate like 16bit 44.1KHz for CD burn the 88.2/2=44.1 = less distortion better sounding CD as 24b 88.2 sounds better than the CD. So do you get it.

 

[markshan]

I "get it" just fine.

 

[Shackman55]

Personally I use a Presonus Inspire 1394 firewire external sound box. It has a preamp input to connect directly to the table, I am a PC kinda guy and I use Cooledit pro 2.0 to record and clean. I use Audacity to break the tracks and label. There are as many different ways to do it as there are people on this forum. If you are a Mac person, I have heard tell (never tried it) there is a free program called Final Vinyl that works well and is designed just for this. My theory as to the hardware, is clean short path and not inside the computer! Too much hum (I suspect the computer doesn't know the words cause it always hums) I have used decent boxes from $40 on up and been happy for the most part. Each one has particular features and such that give them an edge. Ultimately has to be a good table needle cart and clean clean vinyl or the rest of it doesn't matter.