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Blown away by this DAC

mjw21a

mjw21a

Super Member
Ok, I've been really happy with how my Muji Studio DAC II sounds after significant work. Then installed a pair of Sparkos SS3602 into another cheaper DAC, and an 8x TDA1387 module and have nearly equalled the performance of the Muji at a fraction of the cost. Once I've a NOS reclock module for it I'll be able to do a direct comparison.


The thing irritates me about this unit hasn't required any soldering at all to achieve this. It's all plug in replacements. Far less, time, effort and money.

I suspect it's the very simplicity of this design that makes it sound so good.
 
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Looking at the component parts I think you could do much better for a little more money with a Schiit DAC. You would also be supporting an American company and move away from the massively over hyped ChiFi components that have poor after the sale service.
 
sfseay said:
Looking at the component parts I think you could do much better for a little more money with a Schiit DAC. You would also be supporting an American company and move away from the massively over hyped ChiFi components that have poor after the sale service.
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No, I've owned and run the Gumby and by simply adding a pair of Sparkos SS3602 (US made OPAMPS this blows the socks off it.

If you want to try a ready made commercially available DAC with incredible customer service that blows the socks off the Schiit range (and betters the PS Audio DirectStream) then take a look at Gieseler Audio. Support an Australian company rather than an over hyped US one. :p

Note: I do think the Schiit Saga is an incredible product that shoots above its price point (about even with the LTA MZ2.... Not the MZ3 though). It's just their DAC are nothing stand out. Really very over hyped with many other DAC outperforming them at their price point. At least that's been my experience as I've tried quite a few different DAC's.

On a more serious note, the reason I posted about this particular DAC is how incredibly well it performs with just dropping in a pair of discrete OPAMPS. Use the Sparkos rather than Burson for this unit. For some reason it instantly frys the Burson V5i and V6 Dual OPAMPS though sounds incredible with the Sparkos.

Chinese DAC are generally good candidates for those of us that like to tinker with and modify gear. If it cost more, and had a warranty attached I'd be less inclined to do it. The trick is to find something that responds well to upgrades. This unit is of particular note as you don't even need to get out the soldering iron to get spectacular performance out of it. All changeable parts are socketed. That said, I will put some decent RCA sockets in at some point so I'll use a soldering iron then.

It will be interesting to see if DSD still works once I drop in a NOS reclock module..... Not that it really matters. The TDA1541 sounds spectacular at just 16bit 48khz. It just doesn't need more.
 
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E-Stat said:
Must be running >33V rails. Sparkos goes up to 44V, but why do that?
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A bit beyond me. I can't imagine the Burson doing better anyway. I do prefer the V6 Vivid in my Muji though I believe the Sparkos sound signature gels well with this unit.

I believe you understand this stuff a fair bit better than I do. I just make a change and list for a difference. The change to Sparkos OPAMPS in this unit is nothing short of transformational though. It's like an entirely different unit, better allowing the magic of the TDA1541 to come through.

The 8x TDA1387 module simply has a higher output and doesn't seem to cause any adverse issues. I think I may continue to use my TDA1541A S1 HHH chip though. I have it already so why not?
 
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Strangely using a NOS reclock module in place of the SAA7220 chip didn't work well in this with sound fading to distortion and back to music again every second song or so. I've no explanation for this. A shame as it really sounds spectacular NOS.

Ah well, I'll identify the output caps to change and install some better RCA sockets. Not much else I can do now.
 
StuartB said:
Yeah, those TDA1541 chips are pretty special
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I hope you guys don't believe those are real TDA1541 chips. Cause I'm preeeetty sure they're not. Fake TDAs and other R2R dac chips have been cranked out by China on ebay for years now. If it was a real TDA DAC it would cost a *lot* more.
 
wushuliu said:
I hope you guys don't believe those are real TDA1541 chips. Cause I'm preeeetty sure they're not. Fake TDAs and other R2R dac chips have been cranked out by China on ebay for years now. If it was a real TDA DAC it would cost a *lot* more.
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Yup, my chips are pulls from dead CD players. The TDA1541 S1 is easily the best sounding I've heard. Much nicer than my TDA1541A S1 which I find much closer to TDA1387 wired in parallel. Both chips show show signs of being desoldered and one shows a little rust at the top of the legs. These are not eBay purchases, although the DAC's themselves were. I've installed better chips
 
mjw21a said:
Yup, my chips are pulls from dead CD players. The TDA1541 S1 is easily the best sounding I've heard. Much nicer than my TDA1541A S1 which I find much closer to TDA1387 wired in parallel. Both chips show show signs of being desoldered and one shows a little rust at the top of the legs. These are not eBay purchases, although the DAC's themselves were. I've installed better chips
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OK, just want to make sure people realize that what comes in the ebay dacs are fakes.
 
wushuliu said:
OK, just want to make sure people realize that what comes in the ebay dacs are fakes.
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That’s using a broad brush, there a plenty of legit “stores” on eBay. And I am not saying there is not counterfeit stuff.
 
mjw21a said:
Ok, I've been really happy with how my Muji Studio DAC II sounds after significant work. Then installed a pair of Sparkos SS3602 into another cheaper DAC, and an 8x TDA1387 module and have nearly equalled the performance of the Muji at a fraction of the cost. Once I've a NOS reclock module for it I'll be able to do a direct comparison.

https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/274161327634

The thing irritates me about this unit hasn't required any soldering at all to achieve this. It's all plug in replacements. Far less, time, effort and money.

I suspect it's the very simplicity of this design that makes it sound so good.
Click to expand...
((DAC II Digtal Analog Converter TDA1541 R1+SAA7220P/B PCC88 ECC88 tube)) Hi, i have just purchased this DAC, it's on its way to me. I am hoping it is the same one that you guys are referring to here.!! I am hoping to modify it a little. I noticed you mention a pair of Sparkos SS3602. Am I correct in thinking these are Dual and not single, and will i need two of these..? Thanks in advance for any advice...
 
potopisin said:
((DAC II Digtal Analog Converter TDA1541 R1+SAA7220P/B PCC88 ECC88 tube)) Hi, i have just purchased this DAC, it's on its way to me. I am hoping it is the same one that you guys are referring to here.!! I am hoping to modify it a little. I noticed you mention a pair of Sparkos SS3602. Am I correct in thinking these are Dual and not single, and will i need two of these..? Thanks in advance for any advice...
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Yes, you need a pair. I think a pair of Burson V5i-D is actually more natural sounding in this position though.

I had quite a few changes done with mine over time. The thing to be aware of is the solder used in this thing is horrible stuff to desolder.

Changing one pair of caps for Miflex KFPM-1 with Duelund silver bypass caps did wonders, and the caps near the tubes for Arizona Blue Cactus caps made an incredible improvement too.

Likewise a friend upgraded the caps around the DAC chip for different values as well as better caps.... Also the caps around OPAMPS were changed for Ella Silmic.... The DAC chip was changed to an early production Holland TDA1541 (non A) S1. RCA sockets were also upgraded for rhodium plated copper with hollow telurium centre pin.

I think that's about it, apart from conversion to 240VAC for Australia.

The overall end result was quite spectacular. I have since moved to an Abbas Audio DAC2.2SE TDA1541A R1 which is in a number of ways a better unit, though I don't think I'll ever forget the sound of the Muji. Not strictly accurate compared to the Abbas but just incredible to listen to.
 
mjw21a said:
Yes, you need a pair. I think a pair of Burson V5i-D is actually more natural sounding in this position though.

I had quite a few changes done with mine over time. The thing to be aware of is the solder used in this thing is horrible stuff to desolder.

Changing one pair of caps for Miflex KFPM-1 with Duelund silver bypass caps did wonders, and the caps near the tubes for Arizona Blue Cactus caps made an incredible improvement too.

Likewise a friend upgraded the caps around the DAC chip for different values as well as better caps.... Also the caps around OPAMPS were changed for Ella Silmic.... The DAC chip was changed to an early production Holland TDA1541 (non A) S1. RCA sockets were also upgraded for rhodium plated copper with hollow telurium centre pin.

I think that's about it, apart from conversion to 240VAC for Australia.

The overall end result was quite spectacular. I have since moved to an Abbas Audio DAC2.2SE TDA1541A R1 which is in a number of ways a better unit, though I don't think I'll ever forget the sound of the Muji. Not strictly accurate compared to the Abbas but just incredible to listen to.
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Thanks for the reply mjw21a.
I will save that and hope to do these mods as time goes on. At the moment I have ordered a pair of Sparkos SS3602 . Inside this DAC there are two pairs of NE5532N's. Apparently, one pair, circled "A" in the picture attached are for the output stage. The pair circled "B" are likely for the I to V conversion from the DAC chip. I was informed it would be best to swop out both pairs for the SS360S's. Since i only have one pair coming, can you tell me which pair I should change first? A or B. Again any help would be greatly appreciated And thank you in advance.
 

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potopisin said:
Thanks for the reply mjw21a.
I will save that and hope to do these mods as time goes on. At the moment I have ordered a pair of Sparkos SS3602 . Inside this DAC there are two pairs of NE5532N's. Apparently, one pair, circled "A" in the picture attached are for the output stage. The pair circled "B" are likely for the I to V conversion from the DAC chip. I was informed it would be best to swop out both pairs for the SS360S's. Since i only have one pair coming, can you tell me which pair I should change first? A or B. Again any help would be greatly appreciated And thank you in advance.
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B has the biggest influence on sound.

I replaced the 2 white caps below them in the picture for Miflex KFPM-1 with Duelund silver bypass caps. I had to wrap them in Dynamat Extreme to reduce hum and used extensions of wire to place them at the front of the case.

The little green caps near the tubes were changed for Arizona Blue Cactus caps.
 
mjw21a said:
B has the biggest influence on sound.

I replaced the 2 white caps below them in the picture for Miflex KFPM-1 with Duelund silver bypass caps. I had to wrap them in Dynamat Extreme to reduce hum and used extensions of wire to place them at the front of the case.

The little green caps near the tubes were changed for Arizona Blue Cactus caps.
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mjw21a, thanks again for your reply/help. I have changed the two tubes to reflectors 1975 Silver Shield
SWGP . I have replaced the TDA1541 R1 with a TDA1541A R1 ( I do have the TDA1541A version also..!). i will attempt to replace the NE5532 N's with the sparkos when they come. The rest is a little over my head. I tried looking at the Miflex KFPM-1 but there is a lot of variations. I am unsure which to pick. https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/miflex-kfpm-01-copper-foil-capacitors.html

The little green chips near the tubes are they the ones in the picture (attached) And do i change them for these. https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/arizona-blue-cactus-capacitors.html

This is the first time I have done anything like this so again please forgive my ignorance. Thanks Paul.
 

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