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Boston Acoustics Speaker ID

N

nick_ville

Active Member
Hey folks,

Came across a pair of tower speakers, that had no identifying marks other than Boston Acoustics on the tweeter. Any thoughts? I assume they are worth picking up, but need to know what I'm getting into for the price and referb (rotten foams, etc).

Thanks!
 

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Yeah they look like the second generation T-1030. The first series had the tweeter on the top.
 
Definitely T1030s
Good speakers. I have the T830s and they are pretty amazing. Well worth a refoam.
 
Ah, you lucky duck, those are indeed BA T1030s as others have indicated. I've wanted those for a while, excellent speakers. Definitely worth picking up.
 
Thanks for the relies fellas. I think I'll try and stop in a pick them up, if they are still there. They are priced at $70, so with the refoam they will be a bit more, but probably still worth it. Too bad there aren't grills, and there is some damage to the top front corner...
 
Yes, T1030's.
I had them and very nice speakers.
If price is good, get them.

Original surrounds on my pair were not rotted.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=499760

attachment.php
 
Well, I went back to pick these up yesterday. Got them for $63 (10% off). I would suspect that there weren't identifying numbers or anything on them is why they were still around. When I got them in the car is when I noticed the model numbers and serials on the bottom...There weren't any grills, but I can live with that.

Any thoughts on who would be best to get refoam kits from for the woofers? I got a great kit from Rick Cobb for the Realistic T200 speakers I did last fall, so I'll probably ask him, but I didn't know if there were specific kits I should use.

I realized how big these were when I got them home....:)
 
Nice catch. Don't know on teh surrounds as my favorite seller seems to have gone away :( Your idea of contacting Rick should work fine :)
 
BrocLuno said:
Nice catch. Don't know on teh surrounds as my favorite seller seems to have gone away :( Your idea of contacting Rick should work fine :)
Click to expand...

Thanks. Just had a chance to test things out, and it appears everything is working. Just need to replace the woofer foams, not sure about the mid's. they may be fine for now.
 
The mids likely won't need foam. I think they were coated with a doping material and should be fine.
 
baco99 said:
The mids likely won't need foam. I think they were coated with a doping material and should be fine.
Click to expand...

The mid's look fine. I'll need to track down the foams and get that done. Hopefully these will do the trick for me. I have been looking for a pair of PSB towers for a while (something in the Stratus line) but haven't been able to get anything close to local. I think these will suit my needs just fine, and likely for less money too!
 
Yeah, get the surrounds from Ric. I've used them twice on two different Bostons, and he sells the correct surrounds. A lot of people use generic roll types, and they are not the same as the Boston surrounds.
 
89grand said:
Yeah, get the surrounds from Ric. I've used them twice on two different Bostons, and he sells the correct surrounds. A lot of people use generic roll types, and they are not the same as the Boston surrounds.
Click to expand...

Will do. I'll need to check with him if he needs measurements, or if he knows which I need of hand for the T1030's.
 
Well, I have the foam surrounds coming in the next day or so (thanks for the delay Customs office). I hope to be able to get these things singing in the near future. I was wondering about securing the new surrounds to the woofer frame though.

The first and only refoam I did was on a pair of Realistic T200's, which had a cardboard gasket on the woofer frame/basket. So this allowed the foam to secure to that nicely. The Boston T1030 frames are bare (black) metal, and the old glue was the very sticky black goo. The glue that came from Rick's kit in the past was a white Elmers looking adhesive. Should I expect that stuff to work fine on this job as well? I have prepped them quite well, but wanted to know thoughts on the adhesive.

I can tell you that the stuff (white Elmers type) worked well on the T200's. I traded them for some other gear, and we hooked them up to the new owners' B&K gear (200 or 300 watt monoblocks) and they held up real well!:music:
 
If you use slow drying white glue be sure and use shims to align the voice coils. If you use the faster drying clear glue you don't need to use shims or remove the dust caps.
With fast drying clear glue make sure you glue the surrounds to the cone first and the frame second.

Btw...the T1030 are really nice speakers. They are one of my favorite speakers of that era. Those and the Boston A200's/400's are on my wish list. All of these speakers I have listened to for hours at my local stereo shop back in the day. I could listen to these speakers for a very long time without any listening fatigue....and when it comes right down to it that's really all that's important. Doesn't matter how punchy the bass is or extended the highs are or (insert audiophile term) if you want to leave the room after only one song. :sigh: With the Boston's I always wanted to hear more. :)
 
Colubrid said:
If you use slow drying white glue be sure and use shims to align the voice coils. If you use the faster drying clear glue you don't need to use shims or remove the dust caps.
With fast drying clear glue make sure you glue the surrounds to the cone first and the frame second.

Btw...the T1030 are really nice speakers. They are one of my favorite speakers of that era. Those and the Boston A200's/400's are on my wish list. All of these speakers I have listened to for hours at my local stereo shop back in the day. I could listen to these speakers for a very long time without any listening fatigue....and when it comes right down to it that's really all that's important. Doesn't matter how punchy the bass is or extended the highs are or (insert audiophile term) if you want to leave the room after only one song. :sigh: With the Boston's I always wanted to hear more. :)
Click to expand...

I'm looking forward to hearing them!

So I guess the answer to my question is that the glue is probably just fine to use. I just wasn't sure how well it would bind to the metal frame. I'll give it a go, and report back when they are done.

Thanks!
 
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