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Bought My first Project car! 1956 Humber!

Good to read you are getting the valve seats to unleaded. Untold drama if you don't.
Get a proper book for it. You will need to know the torque settings and the order of tightening of the head bolts to put the head back on.
I hope you already bothered to find this bunch of characters.http://www.humbercarclub.com.au/a/Humber-Car-Club-of-Victoria

see me sig. It's a neff jay mate.
 
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Yeah I do have the original service manual for the car, a bit tattered but all the information is still in there. I have joined the Humber club too but haven't made much contact with them at this point. I will once I really get stuck, or when I'm ready to take the beast out.

Given I have never done a head gasket before, how do you go ahead and prepare the block surface for putting the gasket and head on? There is some pretty damn stubborn grime on it and I'm not sure how to go about getting it clean. Anything that I should totally avoid?

I will probably be picking up the head in a few days, but not fitting it back on the car for a while. Right now we have removed everything from the block for cleaning and checking. Before the head goes back on we want the block to be in good shape with everything ready to go back on.

We will need to get the water pump rebuilt, probably a new thermostat housing and will have the radiator done at a local place. There is so much miscellaneous stuff to be bought and replaced, all the hoses are completely perished and will be replaced, distributor cap, the points to be replaced with electronic ignition, the leads and caps, some wiring (all the wiring eventually) hose clips, fuel filter, throttle linkages... uhh.. But despite my complaining it hasn't stopped being fun or exciting. So hopefully when I pick up the head on Wednesday it will be a thing of beauty!
 
Sounds like you are well organised.

Just replacing original worn parts is easy enough 'buy and bolt' so should bring some smiles. Trouble comes when you start modifying.

Replacing points with electronic ignition is a very good idea. Beware that the electronic might run at a lower voltage than the points did so you might need a resistor in there somewhere. If you have a kit of some kind it might be included otherwise ask an auto electrician or Humber Club.

Best to get the top deck of the block clean as possible before putting head/gasket on. Petrol is a safe solvent for 'grime' seeing as that's what will be going in there anyway. Try using a 'scraper'. One of those that takes a single sided razor. Sometimes used to remove stickers from glass. Kitchen type scourer might be OK for 'scrubbing'. Steel wool is OK but don't get 'shrapnel' in the cylinders.

That 4ltr 6pot should have some torque seeing as you said it's from a truck. Also the 'Super' Snipe was the performance model. If it doesn't, haul it out and stick an Aussie Ford 4.1 straight six in, hahaha.

Did you think of getting the whole block rebuilt or are you happy enough seeing how it runs first ?
 
Hoping it will run OK without having to get the block rebuilt. I took the oil sump out and it was horrific the sludge that built up. However looking up into the block its actually reasonably clean and seems to be in good shape. we did run the engine for a bit before tearing it down and it ran without knocks or suspicious noises.

Its funny you should say to put an Aussie six in it, that's the plan if everything goes to poo!

Apparently it puts out 84KW and 286Nm, not too shabby for something from '56. The only thing at this point we are going to upgrade to a thermo fan, replace points with electric ignition and put something better for the exhaust. It has a smaller exhaust system than what you see on most 4 pots and this is a big 'ol 6.

Getting the block rebuilt isnt really something I thought of though, Maby I'll look into it, but will need to buy an engine crane/lift or whatever. There is a budget... it hasent been defined what the budget is exactly but trying to save money if we can whilst still "Doing it properly"
 
You said it was automatic (and I have read this was the first year of availability for
this option). Any issues with the transmission? Great to read about a resto project
being done, rather than in the planning for years... Good luck and best regards.
 
I'm not good with output numbers but that torque figure does seem OK.

Hauling the block out is a lot more work so if it ran OK you might get away with it and be able to save a lot of work and money. That old iron is really heavy too. Something I bet you noticed just with the head.

I do like your choice of simple but effective upgrades. While you're doing the exhaust pipe I'd suggest springing for a sports muffler and some extractors. That way you free up everything on the output side.
 
The extractors are a little tricky as there is a "hot spot" on it which the intake goes through. So would need to have a new intake manifold made too. At this point were painting them with ceramic paint and heat wrapping the downpipe. And yes, the head was freaking heavy! 286Nm is pretty darn good, my mates V8 Fairlane G220 has 300Nm of torque so comparatively its seems like a very good number.
 
Sixes like that have a reputation for reliability, GOOD, if not spectacular power output, & easy serviceability..I'd say if you keep the oil changed frequently, run it about 80-90 KM/h on the open road every once in awhile, you'll have a reliable friend for as long as you want it..
 
Mattwizz3 said:
...286Nm is pretty darn good, my mates V8 Fairlane G220 has 300Nm of torque so comparatively its seems like a very good number.
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That is good !
Am guessing it's a low revver too since it was a truck engine. That will help with a long engine life since it's prob not had it's rings revved off. When you've got the engine back together you can get a compression test and that will indicate how solid the rings are since everything in the head will be new.

You've prob got it covered but I'll just mention to check the brake wheel-cylinders. (I'm presuming it's drums all 'round). When you've got the new brake lines in and bled stomp on the brake pedal a few times and then stand on it hard for a while. Obviously it should stay solid, otherwise the brake master or wheel cylinders are leaking or bypassing internally.

If the radiator isn't rebuilt yet think about getting a multi core rebuild to cope with Aussie summer in the city temps. Then you will get the max benefit from your new thermo fan. I missed the multi core trick and have been dreaming of a triple core desert cooler ever since.
 
Mattwizz3 said:
It actually turns out I'm a FOOL and its a manual. I forgot about column shifts....
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One good thing (the column shift, not your being a fool, I mean...)!
I once drove a bunch of friends in my '62 Chevy (in 1990), and most
of the youngsters had never seen a three-on-the-tree either.
 
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looks like its coming on good ..glad you are keeping that engine going ..i was brought up on old British engines .. if you need the data for torques etc give me a shout and i will do a screenshot from my laptop .i have all data all cars till recent .
if you haven't got the head on yet get a tube of wellseal to coat the head-gasket with .rolls royce developed it so its the best . also coat any other gasket with it for a good seal .
 
E.Man said:
.... I'll just mention to check the brake wheel-cylinders.
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Yep big drums all round. The plan is to get the wheel cylinders and master cylinder rebuilt before taking the beast on the road. I really dont care if I botch something and break down on the side of the road, but I really DO care if I botch the brakes and have a giant accident. So the plan is to have everything reconditioned and we know a mechanic who is quite keen on the project who will come and help with fitting the brakes and make sure they are done properly. Right now one of the wheels are seized up enough to stop the car rolling away, but we can push it with two people. So that's the brakes right now.

Petehall347, if you could post up the head torque specs that would be great!
 
just firing up the windows laptop .. hopefully post very soon
i don't believe it data goes back to 1959 .. just thinking what car that engine went in after the humber .. if this fails i will have to find my real book .
 
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pm me the engine code . i will ring one of the old boys to have a chat .. i haven't spoke to him for ages so will be a good excuse ..he must be near on 90 years old now . he used to do the machining for me and i sometimes used his workshop for little jobs .. he is a proper engine man .he makes piston rings if needed plus any other bit if its possible .
 
Thats a neat little car you have there, one other upgrade that I can think of that you might want to do is check into seeing if you go can to an at least dual carb set up. Also use side drafts instead of the current single down draft that is on there.

Something like the Datsun 240z set up XK 150, though they used a triple su set up, Opel GT, the list goes on.

I like it though neat car and good pick to. Relatively clean for the most. Keep up the good work.
 
Thanks petehall, I will have to send you the engine code tomorrow, I dont have the details on me and the car isnt kept at my place, will stop off tomorrow and get the code for ya.
 
Great project! Brilliant read [guys!!].

Just did a bit of random looking around, found the following [fwiw]:

Has yours got 'Overdrive'?
attachment.php


attachment.php

1956 Humber Super Snipe Auto Catalogue 1

1956 Humber Super Snipe Auto Cat. 2 ['sub' of the above]

It might be worth somethin'

'Motivational' Movies :D

UK Post Vintage Humber Car Club

Random pic:
attachment.php

Hope some of it 'clicks'!

Cheers, og

PS: Ex Riley Pathfinder owner
 
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oldgringo said:
...Has yours got 'Overdrive'?
Click to expand...

As far as I can tell it is just the normal 3 speed manual. I have a bunch of advertising material for the car as well as a magazine with a review it and an original sales brochure, all very cool 50's style!

Picked up the head from the shop today and its finally done.

New exhaust valves, valve seats redone for unleaded fuel, valve stem seals, sand blasted, machined smooth and painted. It all looks very nice! Just one quick pic with my phone for now, as I picked it up on my way to work and I didn't finish until 10:30pm. So tomorrow I might put up some better pics.

Humberhead.png
 
Wow, that cylinderhead looks like new.

My hometown's mayor here in the Western Cape had a light green/turquoise Humber Super Snipe and it was a real luxury car back in '56. If you're still unsure about the transmission - maybe it does have a Laycock de Normanville electrical overdrive. Look for a switch for it somewhere.

Regarding the engine block - there should be Welsh plugs which will require replacement. Look for something concave and the +- size of ZAR Crowns or 40/45mm in diameter.

A great thread, great story and lovely pics.

tripod
(ex TR3A owner)
 
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