• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

"Boxer", a spreadsheet for corrugated case design

Descartridge

Descartridge

Stereos been berry, berry good to me!
Subscriber
Using the image below from a report process, I recycle large corrugated cases into custom sized cases for stereo components. It is from a google doc (an xls can be developed) and the formulas are simply arithmetic and may be easily derived.
The input variables are component dimensions seen in the gray painted cells.
With it, overall length and width and the dimensions of 13 panels and the glue tab are automatically provided.
Quarter inch scored seam dimensions and 2" wide glue tab are included and based on industry standards.
Protective pads / cushioning are set at 3.5" top and bottom and 1.5" for all four sides of the subject component. And this may be changed, based on materials used.
The tan painted image is for reference and obviously not drawn to scale.

Background: the large cases started with are first laid flat after cutting through the original glue tab and used inside out to expose the clean sides.
Hope this helps.
Happy listening (and packaging).

 
Register to hide this ad
Very shiny!

One thing that I've always wondered about is how do you get the fold lines to be straight and uniform? I've never made a box from scratch, but have folded down boxes to make them shorter and my folds always come out wobbly.
 
roberttx said:
Thanks, but that wasn't what I was asking - I know how to use a straight edge. I was hoping to find out whether you scored or squashed (or whatever) the cardboard, prior to folding.
Click to expand...

Robert,
No offence intended.
The fold lines should be carefully scored. The best "stylus" type tool is a carpenter's pencil, i.e a "flat" pencil. The pencil "lead" should have a rounded, blunt edge such that the scored line is around 1/4" wide.
The score line should be made without cutting into the face paper (and the use of a screwdriver will cut the face paper). Cutting the paper and the internal flutes will reduce the site's strength.
Hope this helps.
 
This is what I use for sizing and customizing boxes. It is called a carton sizer.

DSCN9973.JPG
 
RDecartridge said:
Robert,
No offence intended.
The fold lines should be carefully scored. The best "stylus" type tool is a carpenter's pencil, i.e a "flat" pencil. The pencil "lead" should have a rounded, blunt edge such that the scored line is around 1/4" wide.
The score line should be made without cutting into the face paper (and the use of a screwdriver will cut the face paper). Cutting the paper and the internal flutes will reduce the site's strength.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

None taken. That's exactly what I needed to know, thanks! As it happens, I even have a carpenter's pencil on my desk (that made it indoors from my shop, somehow) so I'm all set. :D
 
Yes, just that linear dent will put the fold where you want it.

I use the fingers loop end of scissors.
 
roberttx said:
Very shiny!

One thing that I've always wondered about is how do you get the fold lines to be straight and uniform? I've never made a box from scratch, but have folded down boxes to make them shorter and my folds always come out wobbly.
Click to expand...

I use a Screen Tool to score the fold after marking with a t-square. Run the wheel along the edge of the t-square for a quick and straight fold. The tool is $5.80 on Amazon.
 

Attachments

  • Screen Tool.jpg
    Screen Tool.jpg
    22.8 KB · Views: 7
The screen roller has a single edge for v-shaped spline (the stuff you push in to lock the screen on a frame) and a double-edged roller for the older round spline.

I like the double-edged one for single-wall corrugated. the scoring is wide enough for light-weight cartons. For Crossfolds on double-wall cartons, I use the single-edged roller and strike two lines, about 1/4" apart. I have tried the perforator, but you only get one pass, and it better be right. I've had double-wall corrugated break, when folded on a perfed line. Maybe I was perfing too deeply.
 
roberttx said:
Very shiny!

One thing that I've always wondered about is how do you get the fold lines to be straight and uniform? I've never made a box from scratch, but have folded down boxes to make them shorter and my folds always come out wobbly.
Click to expand...

I use a straight edge, carpenters square etc., and just retract the blade on my box cutter and use it to make a bending depression.
 
I had to resize a box today and found another tool that works - a cheap plastic coathanger.

I sanded the raised line from the moulds off of one of the acute apexes and, with a little pressure, that worked a treat!

Cheers all.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom