broken dial pointer

[Dearslayer]

So I finally did. After I replaced all the indicator bulbs on my 2325 I went to replace the dial string protector bar and in so doing I dropped a small screw down in the receiver. In trying to retrieve the screw I turned the receiver over and laid it on the bench hoping the screw would fall out. When I did I thought I heard a small crunch. The small screw fell out and I carried on. That's when I noticed the broken dial pointer. Has anyone had any luck when gluing the pointer in place? My thought was that it may not emit the light all the way through if it's glued.

 

[icko30]

Pointer in position, a drop of superglue than sprinkle with baking soda to dry the glue. Blow the remains away and it is done.

 

[thxdave]

Yep...SuperGlue for the win....not that I've EVER done something like what you did!! ;-)

 

[foldthe]

yes. a very small dab of super glue works well and does not seem to affect the illumination. I experimented with some 3D printed pointers and find myself staring at them and being annoyed.

 

[Dearslayer]

Thanks for the replies folks. Is there a specific superglue for plastic/acrylic?

 

[foldthe]

not that I know of. I use the gel to control the amount so there is no spillage down the sides

 

[Dearslayer]

Well ,Super glue I purchased didn’t work. Held it in place for the longest time and it wouldn’t hold. I happed to have some glue in my garage fridge as well as activator so I tried it. It did work but I didn’t have time to get it perfectly aligned before it set but it did stick, however during the lamp install I hit the damn thing again and broke it the second time. Gonna try to glue it again but if doesn’t work I have one coming from EBay.

 

[icko30]

I try to fix the two pieces of the pointer with self adhesive tape somwhere on a chassis to stand still. You can pull off some string off from pulleys to be more manoeuverable.
Superglue with cyanoacrylates work good for me but powdering them with baking soda makes them curing real fast.

 

[Dearslayer]

I filed the rough edges at the break point. I assume the roughness was a result of the dried glue the first time. Anyway I paid strict attention to alignment this time and I think it worked. Time will tell.

 

[Lavane]

I used super glue to try and fix one on a 120 scoped tuner. It didn't light up properly after that. I wound up getting another one off ebay.
The one I bought was out a receiver. Most of them mount on the slide rail the same, but there are several different lengths of pointers Marantz used.
I just had the sellers measure the ones they were selling so I could get the right length.

 

[Mr Creosote]

there's something called Canopy glue that airplane modelers use, It's for clear plastic. Dries clear. May work.

 

[Dearslayer]

The glue held and it lights up but not the whole length if I remember correctly. In any event I did get one from eBay so once I get the Amps back in I’ll check to see for sure how it is and I’ll put the new one in to compare.

 

[Dearslayer]

there's something called Canopy glue that airplane modelers use, It's for clear plastic. Dries clear. May work.

Thanks I’ll check it out.

 

[Lavane]

The glue held and it lights up but not the whole length if I remember correctly. In any event I did get one from eBay so once I get the Amps back in I’ll check to see for sure how it is and I’ll put the new one in to compare.

Thats the problem I had. The light didnt seem to pass past the break after gluing it back together.

 

[tarior]

Loctite 401 is a cyanoacrylate specifically for plastic, and I totally swear by it. Testor's liquid model cement works also.