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Broken selector switch shaft fix

wlhd1610

wlhd1610

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Tom (catrafter) was kind enough to show me this procedure years ago when I was about to attempt to change out an entire 5 wafer selector switch.

Rather then try to unsolder 50 connections - a herculean task to undertake - he said to just swap out the shaft itself!

Here's what we all dread!
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The business end...
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The donor switch....

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Broken switch pulled out in preparation.
Remove the two nuts and lockwashers from the back of the switch but do not pull out the shaft just yet....
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Carefully remove both nuts from the ends of the long screws on the donor and pull the front shaft out making sure that the donor switch shaft is turned to the EXACT SAME position as the broken switch.
This will insure that it slides right into the existing switch wafers....

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You have to carefully pull the broken shaft out with one hand while your other hand keeps a small amount of "clamping force" holding the front and back wafers together.
Doing that will keep all the spacers between each wafer from falling out and you do NOT want that to happen!

Since you previously made sure that both switch shafts were in the same detented position you can carefully and slowly insert the new shaft assembly while watching that all the spacers line up.

When fully inserted go ahead and install the end nuts with lockwashers.

I was extremely nervous the first time but as I did more of them I became more comfortable.
It is an extreme time saver vs. changing out the entire switch assembly.

( Sorry - I couldn't take a pic of the existing switch with the shaft pulled out without letting all the spacers falling out! )
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Here's the old switch shaft...
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Thanks Tom for a great time saving tip!!


Bob
 
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You really need to see that the two long screws are going through each wafer and it's associated spacer as you insert them.

If they get slightly out of place then you stop and move them so it goes smoothly.

It's really heart stopping as you do it but the sense of immense satisfaction after its done makes it well worth it!

Bob
 
I'm curious - I have an extra switch laying around from a 2220b that has 4 positions and I need to replace a switch that has 5 positions. There is no way I can use the shaft out of the 4 position to go in the 5 position switch on my receiver, right?
 
Wow, glad I found this thread. I had a Dolby switch that was broken and was dreading trying to solder a million tight connections in. I was worried about the little spacers so I came up with inserting a cotton swab handle to chase the screw. Worked like a champ though getting the nut back on the far side screw was a technical maneuver. Hope this mod helps!

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This is a great addition to the procedure. I'm going to be trying this soon. I'm thinking of trying to put a tiny drop of super glue at each joint between a wafer and the tubing spacers before removing the screws that hold it all together - just enough for capillary action to suck the glue under the spacer, but not enough to grab the screw. I'm going to try this with a spare on the bench before I try it in the unit. But I think the wooden sticks will be an additional aid in holding it all together.:thumbsup:
 
Steven Tate said:
This is a great addition to the procedure. I'm going to be trying this soon. I'm thinking of trying to put a tiny drop of super glue at each joint between a wafer and the tubing spacers before removing the screws that hold it all together - just enough for capillary action to suck the glue under the spacer, but not enough to grab the screw. I'm going to try this with a spare on the bench before I try it in the unit. But I think the wooden sticks will be an additional aid in holding it all together.:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I thought of trying the super glue but the sticks were the perfect size. Just use the stick to push the screw out and you are golden. Good luck!
 
I have a 2230 with a broken selector shaft and when I got this unit from a friend he also gave me what he said was a replacement from another 2230 that he had intentions of having a tech replace for him but never did get around to it. I believe it's may be the same but there are some differences mainly the fact that the original in the unit now doesn't have nuts onto the ends of the threaded shafts. Seems the threaded shafts are screwed into the threaded holes in the rear retaining plate whereby the replacement does have nuts securing things in place. I'm concerned that if I do manage to remove the existing broken shaft that the replacement may not be exactly the same. I guess no way to be 100% certain other than visual??Also I'm wondering if the front end has to be removed or loosened to allow enough room to remove the old switch. Currently its extremely tight with not much room to even access the far screw at all.
 

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The shaft looks the same size and length so it should be good hopefully. If you can get it out enough to take it apart and slide some cotton swab sticks like I did, it will make it much easier to replace the shaft.
 
The problem is that where the switch sits in the picture is basically where it is and will go no further and that's with the wire retainer unfolded to release as much wire as possible. That's why I'm thinking something has to be let go on the front face even a little to allow that switch some more room to come free to access that back screw.
 
Hi
My 2252B has the exact same problem, Can I use shaft from switches of other marantz model like 22XX or 22xxB and replace it?
Thanks and please help.
 
If I remember correctly, most of the shafts are the same size, just a few different lengths. There are 40 or so Marantz selector switches on eBay now, getting the right length may be a a challenge. I counted the number of pots, found a similar switch with an equal amount and they interchanged. A safer bet if to find the part number of yours, look on eBay and see if any cross to the same part. Good luck!
 
IIRC, silver dialed 2216B, 2226B, 2252B and who knows what else use a different type switch mounted near the rear of the unit, with a long shaft extension to the knob on the front.
This is the switch that has the key that can work it's way out the back.

Tom
 
tbone8 said:
If I remember correctly, most of the shafts are the same size, just a few different lengths. There are 40 or so Marantz selector switches on eBay now, getting the right length may be a a challenge. I counted the number of pots, found a similar switch with an equal amount and they interchanged. A safer bet if to find the part number of yours, look on eBay and see if any cross to the same part. Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thank you!
 
catrafter said:
IIRC, silver dialed 2216B, 2226B, 2252B and who knows what else use a different type switch mounted near the rear of the unit, with a long shaft extension to the knob on the front.
This is the switch that has the key that can work it's way out the back.

Tom
Click to expand...
Thank you!
 
Thank you wlhd1610 you saved me a lot of soldiering. Thanks to tbone8 the wood swab works I had to use a cotton swab. What was nice is ounce you pull the shaft away you can slightly bend the swab so it won't fall out. I just replaced the selector switch shaft in a Kenwood KR6600 with out removing the switch from the wire harness. To say it was a little stressful would be an understatement. And don't for get to clean up the shaft before you pull it through and a light lube helps also.
 
callahan1973 said:
I'm curious - I have an extra switch laying around from a 2220b that has 4 positions and I need to replace a switch that has 5 positions. There is no way I can use the shaft out of the 4 position to go in the 5 position switch on my receiver, right?
Click to expand...
nope you can use it. you have to grind it and make it a 5 position.... I DID EXACTLY THAT to fix a broken selector shaft on a 2275.
 
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