Broken toggle switches on Pioneer SX-828... Looking at replacement options or new tone control board

[GetLoud]

I recently picked up a Pioneer SX-828 locally and ALL 6 of the toggle switches are broken. By "broken" I would describe them as very loose, unable to hold their own weight up, and thus they also do not function properly. The strange thing is that they are not bent or damaged in any other way, it is like the previous owner either used them A LOT or they were all stuck and someone tried to forcefully use them...The rest of the unit is in pretty good physical condition, nice clean sound, the DC Offset is good, and after opening it up looks to be all original! So the big question is.... can I fix these switches and have a winning unit?? Does anyone know where I can simply get new replacement toggles or maybe buy a whole new "Tone Control" board??

I have already disassembled the unit far enough to remove the offending board, so images are attached below for reference as well. Thanks!

 

[EastPoint]

I had the exact same thing happen on an 828. No idea what the issue is but I wonder if there was a bad batch of switches or something. That board is a pain to work on. Your best bet is to watch eBay. No new parts like that are being made.

 

[john stumpf]

as you are in the "soup" so to speak,why not remove one from the board and see if it can be disassembled and repaired? nothing ventured,as they say,nothing gained. if im understanding which board that is its awk-012 the af board, its the same as a 727 i believe. it is also a double sided board with plated through holes and that makes what i am suggesting difficult

 

[EastPoint]

Yes, it is the double-sided board and that’s what makes it difficult. Removing the pots is harder so I don’t think this will be as bad as that, at least.

 

[GetLoud]

I have not yet tried to remove the toggle switches from the board. It appears that finding a new replacement is nearly impossible so my next step will be to disassemble the switches and see if whatever is broken can be repaired. I've never done this type of board soldering before so I will be learning on-the-fly.

 

[john stumpf]

i use motorized extraction , a "vacuum pump solder extractor" namely a pace mbt, they arent fool proof but have distinct advantages. it is the preferred method for double sided boards. the key to this is remembering the actual hole in the board is plated through and connects the solder runs on either side. when properly soldered they will have solder on on both pads and through the hole. the plated through hole is needed to accomplish this when the board was wave soldered as new at the factory. you can use solder wick but its tricky, some times you have to add new solder and generous rosin flux and redo it to get the part free. i use 63-37 solder which has the lowest melting point of the tin/lead solders and as it has no plastic state is the thinnest when molten. when you get the pin where you think its solder free use a bbq stick to see if it wiggles back and forth in its hole. that entire board is that way and you will have the same problem with any other part you change on it as well but the rest are worse as they fully clinched on the lead side. this where a pair of erem flush cutters comes in handy. if its any consolation afik its the only double sided board of any pioneer set of the era but i could be wrong. if you get frustrated and use mechanical force it can ruin your day. be careful is the best advice i can give you. LIQUID ROSIN FLUX is your ally here. on the bright side, not every solder connection is double sided as i remember.

 

[Naka_michi]

This is an old thread, but if anybody is still awake is it possible to easily 3-print the brittle plastic parts for these toggle switches. It seems(?) that there's a type of plastic used which more or less brittles with age and that may be a problem in all sx-828 receivers?