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Budget Record Cleaner Really Works

It's plausable to see affordable devices to clean our records :tresbon: BUT...
there is always a but when you like to DIY :yes:..

The Gem system can be built with a few PVC adapters, at least the assy without the center piece. The center piece, can be found at EBay ( no relation to the seller) and it's known as a Groovmaster. I built one using a different material.

The Mapleshade steamer is expensive for what it's too. Walgreens sells the Perfection Steamer Cleamer for just $29.99 and as low as $19.99 with rebate. The microfiber towels at Pep Boys or other car detailing center ( WalMart and others too...).

The steamer works like a charm as well as the microfiber towels. The Gem is very handy at the moment of rinsing your records. A modified lazy susan can work wonders too.

So, if you have the $300 for both units, buy them, they are that good, but, if you are willing to DIY, you can save about $200-225.

Jose

PS. check the Audiogon post on the analog section for Steamers
 
... The center piece, can be found at EBay ( no relation to the seller) and it's known as a Groovmaster. I built one using a different material. Jose

PS. check the Audiogon post on the analog section for Steamers

That center piece is NOT the groovemaster
It's a 4" clean-out(DWA) or the clean-out cap, again from Lowes\Home Depot.
About 3 bucks
 
I was so intrigued by the steaming threads on audiogon that I ordered a perfection steamer from walgreens. I plan to use it to address issues related to concerns about the use of tap water under pressure. I'll use the steamer before and after. Before, to help loosen up any grime for the liquid cleaner, and after the tap water rinse to remove any potential deposits left by the water in the grooves. Seems like it would just steam out, and then I'll pat dry with a diaper and put it in the dish rack.
 
That center piece is NOT the groovemaster
It's a 4" clean-out(DWA) or the clean-out cap, again from Lowes\Home Depot.
About 3 bucks

I know it's not an original Groovmaster...

What I should said was " it's like a Groovmaster" since what a GroovMaster does is "protecting the label by isolating it from the cleaning/rinsing area" so it don't gets wet in the process.

That center piece is nothing but a pair of PVC adapters about 4" to 5" round,

http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/241265_front200.jpg

with a center hole to pass through an attaching screw ( to the other side of the GEM assy) and with a material to prevent the label from wetting ( like a foam material).

The original G-Master use O-rings to isolate the labels inserted into a hard plastic material.

Jose
 
Cheapest I'd seen the cleaner for was $49.99. Have to look at walgreens now. But, yes, I was going to piece out the Mapleshade steam system.

As for the other. Except that he probably has a patent on it, I can piece and manufacture the item for about $11 (not including protractor and other non essentials.

I still say you guys really need to look into de-ionized water. It'll eat almost anything. Take a ten penny nail down to nothing in 2 days. It's truely a universal solvent 'sept it doesn't eat plastics.
 
I was so intrigued by the steaming threads on audiogon that I ordered a perfection steamer from walgreens. I plan to use it to address issues related to concerns about the use of tap water under pressure. I'll use the steamer before and after. Before, to help loosen up any grime for the liquid cleaner, and after the tap water rinse to remove any potential deposits left by the water in the grooves. Seems like it would just steam out, and then I'll pat dry with a diaper and put it in the dish rack.

The steamer works extremely well. Try the microfiber to dry your records.

Jose
 
The steamer works extremely well. Try the microfiber to dry your records.

Jose


Where do i get the microfiber?
 
Since posting before in this thread about using a vacuum-type RCM, I read the Merrill site more carefully and have been thinking about it. Perhaps I wrote too soon...

He says that the speed of the air rushing into the vacuum dries some of grime-laden water out, before it can be fully sucked up, leaving residue on the surface. I'm not sure how true this is, but it might be. Certainly sluicing a powered stream of water over something will usually get it cleaner than wetting, scrubbing and vacuuming. Think of a larger scale, such as a floor, and it becomes obvious. Ive had a wet/dry vacuum for years, and while it does a great job of cleaning a floor, blasting the floor with a stream from a pressure hose or even a garden hose with a nozzle could get it even cleaner -markedly so! So maybe the same thing is true on the miniature scale of a record's surface. Then again, repetition with the vacuum will do as well, and on vinyl I usually do a second cycle with distilled water. Vinyl isn't as absorbent as floor tile, nor is the dirt as well ground in. Without careful A/B testing and microscopic examination. I can't be sure, but I think he may be right.

The other question mark to consider is how good his cleaning solution is, and the fact that he advises spraying it on, and LEAVING IT TO SOAK for a while, before rinsing it off. How many of us let the cleaning solution sit on our LPs on the RCM while we go make and eat a sandwich. before coming back to vacuum it off? I sure don't. That might make quite a difference.

As for the steam cleaning some are recommending, it might well serve a similar function as letting the solution soak. Steam loosens and lifts up gunk much better than cool water... just think about how they clean car engines. The only worry I would have is the potential for the steam to perhaps affect the vinyl. Need to check on the melting point of vinyl, and how much it softens at lower temperatures. Just leaving an LP in direct sunlight can cause it to warp, so what might too much steam at over 200 degrees F do to it... or to the fine details of the grooves? Even if the heat isn't sufficient to cause noticeable warp in the record as a whole, could it cause any micro-deformation of the groove contours? It may be fine, but I'm not comfortable with the idea, without some checking and/or experimentation.

So maybe there are improvements to be made. Maybe this GEM system is better in some ways, besides being cheaper.

Perhaps the ideal solution (no pun intended) is a combined approach: soak (or possibly steam) well first with the best cleaning solution, then rinse off with that sink device, then follow with a distilled-water rinse (perhaps repeated) with the RCM. A little more time-consuming, but there sure wouldn't be much left behind on the record. Or use a distilled (or reverse-osmosis filtered) water supply with the GEM cleaner. I still like the final step to be the vacuum cleaner, to ensure a surface that is not only clean, but dry, too.

Hhhhmmm, then again, a hint of water might function as a lubricant, and it might help dissipate the frictional heat that is generated where the stylus meets the vinyl. I remember preferring the sound of slightly damp records, as a teenager. Perhaps a final stage of misting the record is a good idea? Or perhaps we should keep our LPs in giant humidors, like one does fine cigars?

As for the other complaint that the RCM involves physical contact with the record, this is, indeed, a drawback. It is important to keep the felt-like stuff at the edges of the air slot as clean as possible. This requres having at least two vacuum heads, and changing heads between the initial cleaning and the final (distilled rinse) cleaning.

Ideally, one might make an all-metal precision-instrument grade machine that would clamp the record securely enough, then hold the head just a fraction of a millimeter over the record surface.

I JUST FIGURED IT OUT! Just as I was typing that last sentence, a new design concept popped into my head that combines the best of all these approaches (except cost... no way could it be built as cheaply as the GEM). Now I have to go write it down (sketch it) before I forget it, and then decide whether to try to build one and perhaps patent it, or throw it out here for the world to have for free... Later! :D
 
Arkay, I like your approach to the "perfect cleaning method" :yes: which is what a DIYer do..think about the problem, search for possible solutions, design an idea and construct the device... The GEM system and Groovmaster are that kind of devices. Both intend to clean the records without damaging the lables... But what if someone can design a product to protect it without using those machines? Like using a protective paint or clear sticker to adhere to the lable, tough enough to be wet without damaging the lable and the protection? Just think about it!

I like the GEM in a way that you rinse away the contaminated cleaner. What I don't like much ( and this might depend of every particular case) is using tap water. Not every tap water is equal and they vary from place to place...

Steamers.. I use one and it makes a difference. I understand your concern on temperature and warping but consider that many people trying to unwarp a record, use 150-200* for 30-45 min into an oven and ther record grooves stay ok. With the steamer you apply the steam for a few seconds ( 3-8 sec in most cases). This steam is applied at about 6" or more away from the record. Since you are using the best water you can find ( distilled, R/O, etc) this act as a rinse too.

Microfiber..use them, they will fast dry your records and will atract any dust left behind. Sometimes I use them instead of my carbonfiber brush before playing a record too.

Jose
 
This thread is becoming very interesting. Thanks to everyone for such thought-provoking contributions!
 
As for the steam cleaning some are recommending, it might well serve a similar function as letting the solution soak. Steam loosens and lifts up gunk much better than cool water... just think about how they clean car engines. The only worry I would have is the potential for the steam to perhaps affect the vinyl. Need to check on the melting point of vinyl, and how much it softens at lower temperatures. Just leaving an LP in direct sunlight can cause it to warp, so what might too much steam at over 200 degrees F do to it... or to the fine details of the grooves? Even if the heat isn't sufficient to cause noticeable warp in the record as a whole, could it cause any micro-deformation of the groove contours? It may be fine, but I'm not comfortable with the idea, without some checking and/or experimentation.

I thought the same thing. The first time I used steam, I cleaned some records that wouldn't have broken my heart if they were damaged. I've done several cleaning sessions now with the steam cleaning and am feeling quite comfortable with it and confident that it's not harming the vinyl and is doing an excellent job cleaning. In fact, I'm feeling comfortable enough that just yesterday, I cleaned a couple of brand new APO direct-to-disc records. They sound magnificent/the detail is incredible. I'm using the steam cleaner in conjunction with a diy RCM and use only DI water. The buy-in price ($20 - $30 in US at Walgreen's) for a Perfection Steam cleaner is very small to give it a whirl for yourself.
 
I thought the same thing. The first time I used steam, I cleaned some records that wouldn't have broken my heart if they were damaged. I've done several cleaning sessions now with the steam cleaning and am feeling quite comfortable with it and confident that it's not harming the vinyl and is doing an excellent job cleaning. In fact, I'm feeling comfortable enough that just yesterday, I cleaned a couple of brand new APO direct-to-disc records. They sound magnificent/the detail is incredible. I'm using the steam cleaner in conjunction with a diy RCM and use only DI water. The buy-in price ($20 - $30 in US at Walgreen's) for a Perfection Steam cleaner is very small to give it a whirl for yourself.

:banana: .. and it has a high WAF :yes:

"Honey, take a look at what I bought for the house use....." :scratch2:

Jose
 
Well, after being on the fence about this for some time, I went ahead and pulled the trigger. This kinda goes against my DIY nature, but heck if it works as well as the claim, then so what. Our water up here in the mountains is hard so I'm going to experiment (to satisfy my DIY bent) with building either an inline filtration system on the town water or distilled in a pressurized system of some sort. I gotta say, I'm pretty damn excited to play around with this device and do some comparison's of my old cleaning methods with the new.

Will report back what I find.

Mike
 
OK, I just got my perfection steam cleaner in the mail, and decided to use it first, both on an album I had already cleaned with the GEM dandy, and an uncleaned album. First I steam, then apply the cleaner, then rinse with the high pressure hose, and then steam. I first cleaned an old Mingus album i have which had a few pops and scratches. I'm playing it now. I would say 95% of the pops have disappeared, and I notice a lot of detail. The second to be played is an old B.B. King original on Crown, which I had already cleaned once, but there was a lot of noise still with the playback. we'll see how it sounds in a bit after it drys. I must say I am impressed with the steamer. It puts out a lot of pressure, and the records sure are bright and shiny.
 
How about using a small capacity garden sprayer, filled with distilled water, for the rinsing process, or a regular spray bottle?

Do the higher pressure hose from the faucet first to remove the dirty cleaning solution, then rinse with the distilled water from the sprayer. I would think that would do a good job of eliminating the concerns about using tap water to rinse off the cleaning solution.

It ads another step to the process, but retains the benefits of the steaming/brushing and the pressurized rinse, and should eliminate the potential downside to just finishing with tap water, at a very economical price! :yes:
 
Why not filter?

Wouldn't a faucet-mounted filter sufficiently soften the water? I guess you could get all fancy with a high-grade filter, but I doubt I would be able to hear that much of a difference in filters. That would be one fiiiiiine golden ear.

-Dusty
 
Cheapest I'd seen the cleaner for was $49.99. Have to look at walgreens now. But, yes, I was going to piece out the Mapleshade steam system.

As for the other. Except that he probably has a patent on it, I can piece and manufacture the item for about $11 (not including protractor and other non essentials.

I still say you guys really need to look into de-ionized water. It'll eat almost anything. Take a ten penny nail down to nothing in 2 days. It's truely a universal solvent 'sept it doesn't eat plastics.

A ten-penny nail? Didn't know that.

Is it because of being "de-ionized" that it attracts free ions?? Hey, I'm no chemist, but I've found that I always get better results when I hold the record in the sink at an angle, letting water flush off the sides. Problem I'm having, tho... is static. After using microfiber cloths, I sometimes find a heinous amount of lint on my needles. So, yes, all microfibers are NOT the same. I've found the ones that look almost shiny tend to work the best.

Just my 2 cents.
 
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