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Build 2A3 or 300B tube amp?

BmWr75

Top octave? pfffffftttttt
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I'm contemplating building either of these amps from a kit. Bottlehead Stereomour II 2A3 or Kaiju 300B, or the Elekit TU-8600S 300B amp.

Good 300B tubes seem expensive, 2A3 not nearly as spendy. My speakers are very high sensitivity, so 2-3 watts for the 2A3 and 8-10 watts for the 300B is not a deciding factor.

Thoughts on either the driver tubes or the kit that is higher quality?
 
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I'm contemplating building either of these amps from a kit. Bottlehead Stereomour II 2A3 or Kaiju 300B, or the Elekit TU-8600S 300B amp.

Good 300B tubes seem expensive, 2A3 not nearly as spendy. My speakers are very high sensitivity, so 2-3 watts for the 2A3 and 8-10 watts for the 300B is not a deciding factor.

Thoughts on either the driver tubes or the kit that is higher quality?
I vote 2A3 since you already have high sensitivity speaker.
 
The Bottlehead kits are solid value. I haven't built one but have seen a number of them. I built an Elekit 8600S. It is a very good kit. It is a PC board rather than point to point. That might be a factor in your decision. The Elekit had great instructions and it fired up first time. I checked every resistor before installing and followed the instructions very carefully.

John
 
I bought a quartet of the $118 each Electro-Harmonix 300B tubes a couple of years ago for my push pull 300B amp with Hashimoto output transformers. I have been extremely pleased with the sound of this amp and despite having a stable full of 2A3 and 300B SE amps, I love this PP 300B amp. For a 2A3 SE amp I run the very expensive EML V4 2A3 real mesh plates which are great, but the PP 300B amp is better on my ZU speakers in a big room. The SE EML 2A3 is in the office system, also on ZU speakers, but in a smaller room.
 
My new favorite amp is a SE 6V6 designed by Paul B over at HiFi Haven. I also have a PP 300B which I like very well.
 
Why not build from scratch? It's cheaper and you will learn a lot (if you want to).

Yes, why not ? :)

This is the solution I choose - notably for designing/building compact units :

5AO8Kb-IMG-1152.jpg


nuY4Mb-IMG-1127red.jpg


cPW4Mb-IMG-0062.jpg
CTW4Mb-IMG-1107.jpg


aoDDMb-hammond-1550J-chassis-Banzaimusic-03-09-2018.gif
wz2KQb-U-300B-LAYOUT.jpg


Before the final build, a prototype is a supplementary step which can be useful, depending if you are the designer of the circuit or not, for studying parts relative placement, etc... Here's below the prototype of my U-300B :

5COqJb-Proto-U300B.jpg


A 300B or a 2A3 are both fine and now common tubes, available in many brands, no issue. If you want to heat that DHT in DC, it's easier with a 300B since you can draw it from a 6.3VAC winding. That's what I did :

1708444761172.png
Good Luck for your project @BmWr75 - being Scratchbuild or Kit Form ! :cool:;)

T
 
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I vote for the Bottlehead kits. I have heard the Elekit and, with all the electronic gadgetry in it, I find it a bit on the sterile side. That's not a very popular opinion in these parts, but there it is. On the other hand, it is very, very quiet...
 
If you decide to go with the 2A3 another kit to consider is the Analog Ethos Legendarium. @theflattire built one of them a while back and was quite pleased with it. He had previously built one of the Bottlehead amps that also ran 2A3s. Here's his build thread:


Perhaps he will offer an update now that he's had the amp for a while.

The Legendarium is all point to point. I'm not a fan of circuit boards so I find that appealing. It's also available as an assembled amp, BTW. The build manual is very detailed and can be downloaded from their website: https://www.analogethos.com/legendarium-kit

The design is almost exactly the same as the highly regarded Bugle 45 designed by Gordon Rankin of Wavelength Audio, which was published in Sound Practices magazine many years ago. My first DIY project was a Bugle and it's an excellent amp.

I've never used 2A3s specifically but I built a PP amp using 6B4Gs, which is the same tube but with 6.3v filaments. It uses Hashimoto OTs and sounds excellent. I've also played around a bit with the 6A5G, which is an indirectly heated version. I plan on re-visiting the 6A5G sometime.

I have no experience with 300Bs, mostly because I prefer to use less expensive tubes and often ones that are "under the radar". My most recent SE DHT build has about the same power output as a 300B but the tubes cost about $30.

https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...ckeyed-monkey-a-directly-coupled-set.1040847/

Cheapest 300Bs I've seen are some Chinese ones (Linlai) which are around $100. So not all 300Bs are crazy expensive (*by today's standards) but if you get tempted to upgrade the sound via tube rolling the rabbit hole is very deep.

*An interesting side note . . . Before they became "audiophool fashion items", the prices of DHTs tended to reflect the fact that triodes are actually a simpler design and easier to manufacture than something like a 6BQ5, EL34, 6L6 or 6V6GT. In late 1948 the average cost of a 2A3 was about 88 cents, which was just a bit less than a 6L6GA. That would be $11.12 in today's dollars.

I've never built from a kit, I've always done DIY builds, but I can understand the appeal. As I see it the biggest advantage is that the chassis is fabricated for you and the physical layout has already been developed. Those are the aspects that I find the most difficult and time consuming. Convenience costs money, though, so if those aspects don't intimidate you a DIY build will be less expensive.
 
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If you decide to go with the 2A3 another kit to consider is the Analog Ethos Legendarium. @theflattire built one of them a while back and was quite pleased with it. He had previously built one of the Bottlehead amps that also ran 2A3s. Here's his build thread:


Perhaps he will offer an update now that he's had the amp for a while.

The Legendarium is all point to point. I'm not a fan of circuit boards so I find that appealing. It's also available as an assembled amp, BTW. The build manual is very detailed and can be downloaded from their website: https://www.analogethos.com/legendarium-kit

The design is almost exactly the same as the highly regarded Bugle 45 designed by Gordon Rankin of Wavelength Audio, which was published in Sound Practices magazine many years ago. My first DIY project was a Bugle and it's an excellent amp.

I've never used 2A3s specifically but I built a PP amp using 6B4Gs, which is the same tube but with 6.3v filaments. It uses Hashimoto OTs and sounds excellent. I've also played around a bit with the 6A5G, which is an indirectly heated version. I plan on re-visiting the 6A5G sometime.

I have no experience with 300Bs, mostly because I prefer to use less expensive tubes and often ones that are "under the radar". My most recent SE DHT build has about the same power output as a 300B but the tubes cost about $30.

https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...ckeyed-monkey-a-directly-coupled-set.1040847/

Cheapest 300Bs I've seen are some Chinese ones (Linlai) which are around $100. So not all 300Bs are crazy expensive (*by today's standards) but if you get tempted to upgrade the sound via tube rolling the rabbit hole is very deep.

*An interesting side note . . . Before they became "audiophool fashion items", the prices of DHTs tended to reflect the fact that triodes are actually a simpler design and easier to manufacture than something like a 6BQ5, EL34, 6L6 or 6V6GT. In late 1948 the average cost of a 2A3 was about 88 cents, which was just a bit less than a 6L6GA. That would be $11.12 in today's dollars.

I've never built from a kit, I've always done DIY builds, but I can understand the appeal. As I see it the biggest advantage is that the chassis is fabricated for you and the physical layout has already been developed. Those are the aspects that I find the most difficult and time consuming. Convenience costs money, though, so if those aspects don't intimidate you a DIY build will be less expensive.

That's a good-looking kit. A lot of time and effort went into that manual, that's for sure.
 
I built the first version of the Tube Lab 300B. It is PCB based though. Originally I had bought a pair of EH 300B's cheap from Battradio just to get me started. But the EH's sounded pretty good, so I just left them in the amp and they're still going strong.
 
Good choice. I prefer my 2A3 to my 300B. In case you haven't pulled the trigger, you might consider the Elekit TU-8900. You can run either tube set. I use mine with the 2A3 and I love it.
 
The option of swapping between the 2A3 and 300B is a good reason to consider the Elekit (no affiliation). Not to mention the price is competitive.
 
Yes, why not ? :)

This is the solution I choose - notably for designing/building compact units :

5AO8Kb-IMG-1152.jpg


nuY4Mb-IMG-1127red.jpg


cPW4Mb-IMG-0062.jpg
CTW4Mb-IMG-1107.jpg


aoDDMb-hammond-1550J-chassis-Banzaimusic-03-09-2018.gif
wz2KQb-U-300B-LAYOUT.jpg


Before the final build, a prototype is a supplementary step which can be useful, depending if you are the designer of the circuit or not, for studying parts relative placement, etc... Here's below the prototype of my U-300B :

5COqJb-Proto-U300B.jpg


A 300B or a 2A3 are both fine and now common tubes, available in many brands, no issue. If you want to heat that DHT in DC, it's easier with a 300B since you can draw it from a 6.3VAC winding. That's what I did :

View attachment 3124903
Good Luck for your project @BmWr75 - being Scratchbuild or Kit Form ! :cool:;)

T
Such clean layouts! :thumbsup:

Ever built a 2A3? Those can sound super sweet with the correct pair of speakers.

A friend has Audio Note 2A3 Kageki monoblocks. RCA Cunningham mono plates. So nice.
 
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Such clean layouts! :thumbsup:

Ever built a 2A3? Those can sound super sweet with the correct pair of speakers.

A friend has Audio Note 2A3 Kageki monoblocks. RCA Cunningham mono plates. So nice.

Thanks @Mr Boochie !

No, I never ventured in the 2A3 world... I made tests but nothing finalized like my U-300B posted above.

I have 5 VT-25/10Y "Yellow Base" from Sylvania. I made tests with them for a compact flea-power 1W stereo amp, but heating those DHT is already a "Gas Factory" if I want to go DC, since each needs 7.5V / 1.25A... So for the moment, I did nothing and I am reluctant. Plus those old tubes cost a fortune now !

T
 
I've never heard the VT-25/10Y tube. But these vintage mil-spec triodes are well-built tubes.

Read an article about using the 10Y to drive 300Bs. Interesting idea.
 
I've never heard the VT-25/10Y tube. But these vintage mil-spec triodes are well-built tubes.

Read an article about using the 10Y to drive 300Bs. Interesting idea.

Yes. An Audio friend of mine works on a high performance line preamp with my 10Y / VT-25 for the moment : I wait for his conclusions now.

To my side, the tests that I made for a flea-power 1WRMS amp worked, but the results are not so amazing, compared to the stuff needed to make those 10Y operate, if only for direct direct current heating...

Tests on my bench :

1708719655232.png

The matching schematic :

1708719721725.png

T
 
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