Buying a Thorens TD160! What to check before I take the plunge?

[ageis1]

Hi guys,

I have decided to go-ahead and buy a Thorens TD160. There are a couple in my local area in the $700-$1000 range that I can inspect first before I buy. I have done a bit of reading and know about the usual suspects to check (that the spindle isn't wobbly, that the motor is quiet), but is there anything else specifically that I should be looking for? I notice a lot of TD160's that I see online do not have the protection bar just above the spindle, would you guys shy away from a model that doesn't have this in place? When we are looking at the motor, should it be dead quiet or is a little rumble ok? Finally, is purchasing from eBay sight unseen too much of a gamble if these local ones don't work out?

Thanks!
Andrew

 

[Hoytis]

I'm not sure what you mean by a protective bar above the spindle....but mine does not have anything like that, and I haven't had any issues with my deck in all the years I've owned it.

Motor will take a moment to get up to speed, and might make a small sound as it does, but then once at speed it should be dead quiet.

Don't worry about a missing ground, the TD160's is wired directly into the RCA cable.

Tap the platter and it (and the tonearm) should bounce gently, and silently. It's not necessarily a deal-breaker, as you can adjust suspension and buy new bushings, etc. if need be. But might be cause to ask for reduced price.

Personally, I would never buy a used TT online from a private owner. I'm sure people have had success doing it, but I feel there are too many things that can go wrong. First being someone who doesn't know how to pack the TT properly. There's no way to ensure the tonearm is safe unless it's removed or they still have an original box with cut-out foam still in place. On top of that, I just don't trust that delivery folks take "fragile" or "this way up" stickers seriously at all.

If you do end up getting one that's in great shape, you will love it. It's the best fully manual belt-driven table I've ever owned.

 

[gadget73]

A tall screw next to the motor was a later update. Keeps the platter from bottoming out on the motor and bending it.

Just run the motor and verify it doesn't wobble either way. If its bent enough to matter its bent enough to see.

 

[mythless]

I am always surprised by the increase in price of Thorens.

Honestly, if the motor isn't wobbly, it has all the parts and the dust cover is in good shape, that's it.

 

[Timothy Flath]

Watch this:

 

[Mearle]

Cartridge and Stylus and shipping protection of the Stylus.... you might get lucky and the seller dsnt know that it may be a valuable combination....

 

[JDJX]

Wow that is a lot of money for a 160
I purchased a 145 back in the 1970s which is a 160 with the addition of an end of an LP shut off

About 5 years ago after geting back into vinyl, I got a pristine 165 with all original packaging and only paid about $230 for it .
Personally I prefer the 165 as it uses just gravity to set stylus pressure and not a spring like on the 160.
That my 165 in my sig.

BTW there might be a protection bar by the motor spindle to protect it when placing the metal platter on it the TT.. Perhaps that is what Andrew meant.

Also, the zinc alloy platter does get a haze on it /. corrode after a while and it no logger shines. This is completely normal
Just use a Brillo pad on it and it will shine like new.

Thorens used a zinc alloy because it's heavy and acts like a fly wheel to maintain a stable speed.
It is also relatively easy to cast..
.

 

[gadget73]

Thorens prices are kind of nuts, but I got mine cheap and will admit that has seriously slanted my views on it. Had mine a good 10 years now, but I got it at auction for 35 bucks with no headshell and needing a replacement arm rest. Bought those parts (from @ehoove I believe), bought a belt, a cartridge and I had a running TD-160 in pretty darn good cosmetic shape for under 200 bucks. Mine is pretty boring, still runs original cables and arm, and other than cleaning and lubrication I haven't actually done much else. I did replace the RCA ends because they fit poorly. I added some damping material underneath following the TD-160 Super conversion instructions. Not sure how much it helped but I don't think it bothered anything. The heavier bottom plate did seem to help, and it looks nice.

 

[Coolhandjjl]

About a year and a half ago I paid $500 for my TD166MKII. All it needed was a new factory belt, they are still available. Factory belts have Thorens printed in white on the outside of the belt. (Always use a factory belt)

You can always do a search on eBay to see past sale prices.

 

[Hoytis]

A tall screw next to the motor was a later update. Keeps the platter from bottoming out on the motor and bending it.

Just run the motor and verify it doesn't wobble either way. If its bent enough to matter its bent enough to see.

Ahhh....the motor spindle. I was confused when I first read it. Thanks.

 

[JDJX]

Yeah, the RCA plugs are the one sore point on these otherwise great vintage Thorans as they are prone to corrosion
Most just replace them as matter of routine when they get one used
BTW they used the right RCA as a ground and that is why there is no separate ground wire. If you get a hum, it's a bad RCA

.I added a bit of dampaning but, If it does any good or not is a matter of opinion

Speaking of the motor spindle......
Thorans originally said the after a while, you should lubricate it by wicking a couple of drops of light oil down each end of the motor shaft to reach the busing .I do this two or three times a year.
Be sure to us a 100% synthetic oil with absolutely no additives

This is what I use (and recommend) for the motor and platter bushings. Yes it is a bit expensive but It is great for those things. I have been using it for a few years now. ..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/230523018897?epid=1800190360&hash=item35ac3e1e91:g:RJAAAOSw4-1bUdyH

 

[Timothy Flath]

About a year and a half ago I paid $500 for my TD166MKII. All it needed was a new factory belt, they are still available. Factory belts have Thorens printed in white on the outside of the belt. (Always use a factory belt)

You can always do a search on eBay to see past sale prices.

Factory belt is a bit of a misnomer. Yes the current Thorens company still bears the bought and paid for name but do not for one minute think it is the same company as its forebearer that operated out of Lahr (Kuhbach actually), Germany. They have since gone into receivership and reorganized multiple times under new ownership since. That being said they are still a very reputable turntable company and do make the labelled "Thorens" belts to the same exacting specifications in a different place. Thakker is also made under the same exacting guidelines and principles. Both belts are synonymous and are equal in performance so either type will do. I go for whichever one I can get cheaper.

 

[JDJX]

About the belts....
I suspect that some may replace a belt when all it needs is a cleaning to operate like new

This what I do and have been using the same belt for years
I take a cotton cosmetic "round" .(or pad. These are what gals us to remove makeup etc. They are just cotton and very inexpensive

I moisten one (with water) and put a drop or two of dish washing liquid on it
I then fold it over the removed belt and gently pull the belt through it. You will be surprised at the crap it removes from the belt

Also, do not forget to clean the motor pulley and where the belt rides on the platter with isopropyl alcohol.
I use a cotton swab to clean the motor pulley.

 

[sfrost]

If I was going to buy a Thorens table I would look into the tables Dave at Vinyl Nirvana sells, knowing it has been gone over and is in 100% working condition and backed by someone that has been doing these tables for years. Also knows how to pack and ship tables since he does this as a business.

 

[Timothy Flath]

About the belts....
I suspect that some may replace a belt when all it needs is a cleaning to operate like new

This what I do and have been using the same belt for years
I take a cotton cosmetic "round" .(or pad. These are what gals us to remove makeup etc. They are just cotton and very inexpensive

I moisten one (with water) and put a drop or two of dish washing liquid on it
I then fold it over the removed belt and gently pull the belt through it. You will be surprised at the crap it removes from the belt

Also, do not forget to clean the motor pulley and where the belt rides on the platter with isopropyl alcohol.
I use a cotton swab to clean the motor pulley.

If you want to try to resurrect a belt that is drying out and losing its elasticity I would also suggest something like this product which is very good for rubber products. It will of course do no good for the normal stretching that occurs over time. For best performance I would still suggest replacing a belt long before it starts to impact performance. When you do this depends on environmental conditions and how much you use your table which directly impacts wear and tear.
https://timothyflath.smugmug.com/Stereo/Turntables/Thorens/TD-160/i-thQk23x/A

 

[Timothy Flath]

If I was going to buy a Thorens table I would look into the tables Dave at Vinyl Nirvana sells, knowing it has been gone over and is in 100% working condition and backed by someone that has been doing these tables for years. Also knows how to pack and ship tables since he does this as a business.

From the Vinyl Nirvana web site:
Restoration News March 2021

March 12, 2021

Effective immediately, I am no longer accepting restorations for the same vast array of models I have done in the past. Going forward, it will just be Thorens TD-125, Thorens TD-125 MKII and AR models as follows: AR the Turntable, AR ES-1, AR EB-101.

It is with mixed feelings I deliver this news. However, for my long term sanity and happiness, it’s really my only option going forward. Over the course of doing restorations for the last 15 or so years, the turnaround time has steadily increased, to the point I have turntables here frequently for 12 weeks or more. Since my shop is here in the basement of my home with limited space, I simply can’t continue to take in all the models I serviced in the past. I just turned 61. Perhaps if I were 41, I would be hiring help and moving to a different space. Alternately, at my current age, I want to be able to vacation with my wife a couple of times a year while we are still in good health. Both of us lost our mothers when they were in their late 50s, and so we know not to put things off. So, I am hopeful you can understand my decision.

In closing, I apologize especially to those whose models I said I would take in after March 15th, 2021, but am now opting out. I wish I had somewhere/someone else I could recommend, but I don’t. My strong hope is the hole this decision leaves in the marketplace, will be filled sooner rather than later.

Not sure if this also impacts his re-sale side of the business

https://www.wmur.com/article/monday-february-4th-vinyl-nirvana-1/5179366#

 

[sfrost]

Has a TD 145 for under $800 right now, so check his site before assuming these are not still available. These tables and parts are becoming scarcer so Dave will have less for sale I’m guessing but I would keep an eye on his site if you really want a trouble free table.

 

[Ilikevinyl]

Wow that is a lot of money for a 160
I purchased a 145 back in the 1970s which is a 160 with the addition of an end of an LP shut off

About 5 years ago after geting back into vinyl, I got a pristine 165 with all original packaging and only paid about $230 for it .
Personally I prefer the 165 as it uses just gravity to set stylus pressure and not a spring like on the 160.
That my 165 in my sig.

BTW there might be a protection bar by the motor spindle to protect it when placing the metal platter on it the TT.. Perhaps that is what Andrew meant.

Also, the zinc alloy platter does get a haze on it /. corrode after a while and it no logger shines. This is completely normal
Just use a Brillo pad on it and it will shine like new.

Thorens used a zinc alloy because it's heavy and acts like a fly wheel to maintain a stable speed.
It is also relatively easy to cast..
.

Bought my TD-160 about 16 years ago for $12 at a thrift store! Mint condition with a Shure M91ED cartridge!

 

[samrobertson]

A major part of the value of these turntables is their ridiculous durability. If the motor works, it’s hard to imagine the table not making you happy. They seem to be prone to only very minor and easy-to-fix issues.

 

[Taketheflame]

Bought my TD-160 about 16 years ago for $12 at a thrift store! Mint condition with a Shure M91ED cartridge!

I think the days of those kinds of deals being abundant are long gone, sadly. I got into vintage gear too late! lol.

OP, I would not hesitate to buy a Thorens without the motor protection rod (and you might even be able to add one IIRC) - just make sure the motor spindle is straight, and be careful not to whack it with the platter in your own use!