Bypass SX-828 Dimmer Switch

[tsd71]

I have this problem with my 828, had the same problem with a 1010 but thanks to MTF got it jumpered out for full illumination. The switch boards are a little different in both receivers with the 1010 having 7 pins and the 828 having 6. How do I bypass the dimmer switch on the 828 for full illumination. I really dont want to pull the switch apart, I'm ok with bright lights..:yes:

Thanks:

 

[Pioneer72-81]

Is the dimmer switch mechanically broken, or does it function, and needs to have a shot of Caig Deoxit applied? I had this problem with my SX-939, and a squirt of deoxit and cycling the switch 30-40 times (with the power off of course) cured the problem.

 

[tsd71]

it's not broken just dirty and needs to be disassembled and burnished, I would just rather bypass like the SX-1010 that I did, I tried the Deoxit bath already.

 

[markthefixer]

I answered this very question yesterday:

It IS a SX-828 thread.

Thanks again mark, steve and larry.

mtf, could you point me in the way of hard-wiring the dimmer switch to be BRIGHT all the time? is it as simple as unhooking the dim side and insulating that wire to avoid a short?


And if you could explain this difference. I always like to ask the eternal question, "why?"
On the 120V American/Canadian model there is a 2.2M 1/2W resistor connectd to the chassis from one side of the power cord, and the export models there's no resistor. Why?

The schematic is not clear whether pin 1 or pin 3 is the high transformer lighting tap on the AWS-017 board with the lighting switch.

Pin 2 is the feed for the lights

Either pin 1 and pin 2 are connected together, or pin 2 and pin 3 are connected together for bright, AND you MUST DISCONNECT AND INSULATE THE UNUSED PIN 1 OR 3. Failure to do so will leave a shorting hazard that can damage the transformer and perhaps cause a fire.

as for the resistor - It's the LAW... longer explanations will have to wait. You should have noticed I am not posting a lot online for the last few weeks and that will continue into the middle of march. I neglected real-world things to do the AK postings, and now it's coming back to bite me in the a## big time, leaving me with little time for my usual of explanations...

 

[tsd71]

Sorry Mark, I know you are busy, I saw that post but didn't look deep into it, thought it was just a power supply issue...Thanks again

 

[tsd71]

For anyone who encounters this problem in the future in order to get bright illumination of the lamps you need to put Pin 3 wire on Pin 2 and insulate the unused pin 1. If you want dim lamps 24/7 then put Pin 1 wire on Pin 2 and insulate Pin 3.

 

[Noodle]

in order to get bright illumination of the lamps you need to put Pin 3 wire on Pin 2 and insulate the unused pin 1.

Alright it's important when you don't know something, ASK!
And I just wanna be safe.

1. So, in the quote above, do I un-hook wire #1(white) and insulate both the wire and pin #1? Or, just insulate pin #1 with the wire attached?
2. And also, I need to leave wire #2(brown) attached to pin #2 when attaching Pin 3 wire(red), correct?

 

[Noodle]

Help - Bump!!

 

[markthefixer]

Alright it's important when you don't know something, ASK!
And I just wanna be safe.

1. So, in the quote above, do I un-hook wire #1(white) and insulate both the wire and pin #1? Or, just insulate pin #1 with the wire attached?
2. And also, I need to leave wire #2(brown) attached to pin #2 when attaching Pin 3 wire(red), correct?

un-hook wire #1(white) and insulate the wire

leave wire #2(brown) attached to pin #2 when attaching Pin 3 wire(red), correct? yes

Help - Bump!!

take it easy, I'm not posting that often, I gotta steal time to do the posts - and then there's the FACT that AK was DOWN for over 12 (up to 24?) hours...

that 1010 post only took a minute or so to copy the stuff out of (my) the appropriate spreadsheet.