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C29 love...

nice wee setup there. just curious, but what turntable are you using in the photo ? looks like it has a v15 on it too ?

thanks

A.
 
The top table is a SP10MKII with a 10" SME M2 arm and a V15 III MXR Shure cartridge...

thanks,
Ron-C
 
The C29 lives in the bedroom system with some tables, tuners, and an originnal MC275.

thanks,
Ron-C

I see a neat signal generator on the ground???

BTW, if this is the bed room system, how you manage to get test equipment inside the room?:scratch2:

Also, have you consider changing out all the old carbon comp resistor with 1% metal? I always wonder how one of the 70s or 80s pre-amp redone with all current parts will sounds like. I been thinking about redoing one of my C33s. Too bad there are so many parts in them.

LN
 
Yes that is an old HP signal generator. The Packards live three houses behind me so I figure I should support them. An MPI-3, second table and second tuner are also in this system.
Maybe 1% LN resistors would sharpen the sound up a bit. They are in the phono stage already.

Thanks,
Ron-C
 
The top table is a SP10MKII with a 10" SME M2 arm and a V15 III MXR Shure cartridge...

thanks,
Ron-C
Ron, not to get too far OT here, but how do you like that V-15 III?

From what I read, this particular Shure, with either the elliptical or Shibata-style stylus is quite well thought of.

NOTE: In interests of full disclosure, I must state that I use a V-15 III with a 1 mil conical stylus on a FONS CQ30/SME3009 Improved for 78's, and a V-15 VMR for stereo LP listening. :cool:
 
c-29 love

Just curious Ron :scratch2: How many Hours /Days etc did this overhaul take you to complete from Start to Finish? Ross.
 
Lazy fingers. The Shure is a V15 V MXR and it plays fine. I use it with the brush down and the 10" SME arm is damped.
The C29 took maybe 3 hours to redo. The most time spend is finding the parts. If You had all of the parts and you soldered fast it should take a few hours.

Thanks,
Ron-C
 
This thread got me thinking about a few older SS pre-amp or amp cap upgrade.
I see for the most part, Ron choose to use the Nichicon muse caps for the electrolytic. I assume that can be said for all different models. Right?? There are a few series of muse caps, FG, KZ, FX, FW, KG etc, which one to use?

How about the Metalized Polyester, Polyester Film and the Ceramic disc caps that are use these machines? What should take their place?

How about resistors? there are many carbon film being used, should they be changed to metal film?

LN
 
Caps, you use the ones that fit and are close to the voltage and size of the original. Bigger is not always better. Changing the Op amps to the latest low noise version is a good move.
If you want to do the low noise resistors, maybe it will be a gain. The Phono section already has these by the way.
All current McIntosh products use the low noise 1% or better resistors. We also Use Nichicon Rubycon caps.
Out of all of the gear from the 70s and 80s the Nichicon Rubycon caps seem to be the best at holding value. I don't want to dump on other cap brands from Asia but...

Thanks,
Ron-C
 
When you are evaluating an older unit that is a stereo preamp, amp or even a TV or source component the first thing to look at is the power supply. Are the voltages to spec? Are the positive and negative sides of the power supply output the same?
If not new diodes, rectifiers or power supply caps are in order. Once the power supply is brought back up to snuff the overall unit performance will often be restored to new.

Thanks,
Ron-C
 
Caps, you use the ones that fit and are close to the voltage and size of the original. Bigger is not always better. Changing the Op amps to the latest low noise version is a good move.
If you want to do the low noise resistors, maybe it will be a gain. The Phono section already has these by the way.
All current McIntosh products use the low noise 1% or better resistors. We also Use Nichicon Rubycon caps.
Out of all of the gear from the 70s and 80s the Nichicon Rubycon caps seem to be the best at holding value. I don't want to dump on other cap brands from Asia but...

Thanks,
Ron-C

Ron, Thanks..

The cap I am asking are the Ceramic Disc, Metalized Polyester and Polyester Film. What is a good replacement for those?

Please post result of the C34V, I was think of doing something about them. Lot of parts... to suck out. :tears:

BTW, I have a desoldering station, do you want to borrow it?

Thanks..

LN
 
LN,

Ceramic disk, and poly caps are left alone as these generally do not age. The C34V uses the very excellent Nichicon Rubycon caps which seem to hold their values especially in the signal path. If you want to go to later design Nichicon audio grade caps that is fine.
Power supply caps as used in the current McIntosh products are very low in ESR which in some cases may have a slight audible improvement.

thanks,
Ron-C
 
LN,

I will publish the C34V story with pictures in a week or two. No time now and I am on the road. Stay tuned.

Thanks,
Ron-C
 
LN,

I will publish the C34V story with pictures in a week or two. No time now and I am on the road. Stay tuned.

Thanks,
Ron-C

Ron, dont post and drive, or there will be an opening at McIntosh..."not that there is anything wrong with that"...:D
 
I'm glad to see this thread developing right now as a C29 found its way into my main system last night. Chassis is fair but it has a new faceplate. No problems/issues, but it will get a recap before long. I have pictures at home, they'll be posted soon.
 
Yes that is an old HP signal generator. The Packards live three houses behind me so I figure I should support them. An MPI-3, second table and second tuner are also in this system.
Maybe 1% LN resistors would sharpen the sound up a bit. They are in the phono stage already.

Thanks,
Ron-C

Wait a sec... two 'tables and two tuners in your bedroom system? I have to wonder, are you married? :) Much as my wife encourages my possession of good audio equipment in general and Mc gear in particular, I think I'd hit the proverbial brick wall if I tried to put a system like that in our bedroom.
 
Gregory,

Yes with pictures and the C33 is very close to the C34V. Both keepers.

Thanks,
Ron-C
 
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