C34V love
- Thread starter ron-c
- Start date
Gregory
Soundco Kid
Are you saying that you don't miss the LISTEN and RECORD buss features? I can tell you the RECORD track is most useful. Let's say an external processor (an RG Pro20) is connected to the REC EXT PROCESSOR jacks. Switching the RECORD INPUT rotary selector to the source you want, then pressing the REC MON button will route the signal path out through the Pro20 and back. Simply pressing the button again will cut out all the interconnect cables and switches/circuitry in the external processor, going back to more of a straight wire.
It's almost like two preamps in one.
-Gregory
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Metal trim around C34V push-button switches
I had the same situation with my C34V when I bought it used about 10 years ago. The area below the on/off switch was worn away. I learned a trick from collectors who restore classic HP scientific calculators (another financial black hole of mine). They have a silver trim strip around the keyboard. The product to use is called "Bare Metal Foil." It is sold at good hobby shops that cater to people who super-detail model cars, etc. You can Google it. It is an EXTREMELY thin sheet of metal foil with an adhesive backing. It does take some practice and patience but the results are close to perfect. I bought it in a sheet about 6" x 8". It may come in other sizes. You cut off a strip about 3/32" wider on each side than you need. You have to lay it down starting at one end by peeling away the backing paper and sort of squeegee it with pressure as you proceed. It can get creases, folds, etc. ANY imperfections in the surface underneath will show through. You then use a toothpick or other soft item and rub it down very carefully. The main work is trimming the edges. You use an Xacto knife that has been honed by hand on a sharpening stone. A stock blade will not work. Start at one end and apply slight pressure while moving. Once the foil is split, the knife almost moves like butter the entire length of the run. In the case of my C34V, I only refinished the lower horizontal section. You cannot tell anything was modified. I just purchased a very nice MC2125 that has most of the metal worn off the meter trim frame. In a few weeks when I finally get it finished, I will post some pictures.
This technique may not be worth the trouble for parts that are still available from the factory but for obsolete parts it's the only way to go. Has anyone else ever used it?
John
I had the same situation with my C34V when I bought it used about 10 years ago. The area below the on/off switch was worn away. I learned a trick from collectors who restore classic HP scientific calculators (another financial black hole of mine). They have a silver trim strip around the keyboard. The product to use is called "Bare Metal Foil." It is sold at good hobby shops that cater to people who super-detail model cars, etc. You can Google it. It is an EXTREMELY thin sheet of metal foil with an adhesive backing. It does take some practice and patience but the results are close to perfect. I bought it in a sheet about 6" x 8". It may come in other sizes. You cut off a strip about 3/32" wider on each side than you need. You have to lay it down starting at one end by peeling away the backing paper and sort of squeegee it with pressure as you proceed. It can get creases, folds, etc. ANY imperfections in the surface underneath will show through. You then use a toothpick or other soft item and rub it down very carefully. The main work is trimming the edges. You use an Xacto knife that has been honed by hand on a sharpening stone. A stock blade will not work. Start at one end and apply slight pressure while moving. Once the foil is split, the knife almost moves like butter the entire length of the run. In the case of my C34V, I only refinished the lower horizontal section. You cannot tell anything was modified. I just purchased a very nice MC2125 that has most of the metal worn off the meter trim frame. In a few weeks when I finally get it finished, I will post some pictures.
This technique may not be worth the trouble for parts that are still available from the factory but for obsolete parts it's the only way to go. Has anyone else ever used it?
John
Hi Ron:
I have a few questions regarding your photos of the inside of the C34V. Were the pictures taken before or after restoration? I have an early version preamp that looks somewhat different inside. How hard was it to remove the large circuit board with the power supply caps on it? My unit only has two large filter caps, not four. Did you increase the size of two of them or is that the way they looked before? My monitor amp has TO-66 metal can output transistors rather than plastic. Your monitor amp circuit board picture shows two large caps, each sitting relatively close to the output inductors. I have no large caps. Did you increase the size there or is that a "before" picture?
Thanks,
I have a few questions regarding your photos of the inside of the C34V. Were the pictures taken before or after restoration? I have an early version preamp that looks somewhat different inside. How hard was it to remove the large circuit board with the power supply caps on it? My unit only has two large filter caps, not four. Did you increase the size of two of them or is that the way they looked before? My monitor amp has TO-66 metal can output transistors rather than plastic. Your monitor amp circuit board picture shows two large caps, each sitting relatively close to the output inductors. I have no large caps. Did you increase the size there or is that a "before" picture?
Thanks,
ron-c
Addicted Member
The second post shows the power supply section before and after. The Blue cans are before and the black and black gold are after. You do not need to remove the board simply take the covers off the preamp, bottom and top.
This is the last version of the C34V in the pictures. You may have an early version. Does yours have gold jacks on the rear?
Thanks,
Ron-C
This is the last version of the C34V in the pictures. You may have an early version. Does yours have gold jacks on the rear?
Thanks,
Ron-C
Hi Ron. Sorry about resurrecting such an old thread. I was wondering if you knew if the bezels are still available for these. I just got a hold of a nice C34V but the bezel has a little wear and the gold paint has rubbed off a bit.
I used your C29 love thread to update my C29, and I can't wait to do the C34V in the same fashion. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
I used your C29 love thread to update my C29, and I can't wait to do the C34V in the same fashion. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Call Mcintosh parts (800) 538-6576. If they don't have it any more, try Audio Classics.
If the printed insert is glued into the plastic frame, every model will have different words above the pushbuttons and won't be interchangable. The C33 and C34V are different.
Hi John. I was just talking about the outer bezel, not the insert. I checked the service manuals for the C33 and the C34V and the part number for the bezel is the same "045-828, Pushbutton Bezel w/ Adhesive".
As far as the C32, I couldn't tell from the SM since no part number is mentioned for the bezel, however, it appears from pictures that it would work on a C34/C33. It has eight buttons with dual LED's above the far left button and the four holes in the corners.
Thanks.