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CA-1010: Cap list for phono preamp- help?

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nate86

Well-Known Member
Hey, I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out the values of the blue tantalum caps (I think they're 8) on the phono preamp PCB board of the CA-1010. I think there are two larger caps there as well (220uf?)?

I'm not very good at reading a schematic (there's one on hifi engine), so any assistance would be greatly appreciated :).
 
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No problem! I recapped the unit as can be seen in this post: http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=331200

The tantalum ones are:
C101/C103
C105/C107
C109/C111
That is only for one channel, so there are 12 tantalum caps total.

The cap list for the phono stage is added as pdf file. I removed the price columns, because they were out-of-date.

Good luck!
 

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I'm doing a recap of the power supply board too (the caps there were done for), and decided to do phono as the caps there were tantalum. I probably should replace all the caps, but this is my first time doing this, so I'm going to start with the power supply melted/leaky caps, and see if I can get it up and running. Then if all works as it should, I suppose I should replace all the caps, eh?
 
Yes, I think the power supply is most important to recap. Btw. it was the only place where I saw some akward looking caps. But if you're working on it you might as well change all capacitors. I still have to do the main boards though.

nate86 said:
Hey, also wondering- did you end up adjusting the DC offset at all when you were doing yours?
Click to expand...
There is no DC adjustment possible on the CA-1010. There is a bias adjustment procedure and it's important you check this per manual, as too high bias could cause damage. I did read/ask about the possibility to add a DC adjustment here, but didn't try it, too much work and risk for something that is not really necessary with the offset I had.
 
Wow, that was much easier than I expected. Replaced the power board caps and it was good to go.

Holy **** I definitely needed more power for these speakers. Such an improvement! :music:

Still haven't gotten to the phono caps, but I couldn't help doing a test run through the DAC.
 
Agh, while trying to see if I could make the meters a little brighter via a q tip cleaning, I somehow screwed up the wiring on the right meter- now every time the amp goes on it pegs to the right immediately. Ugh. The circuit board for these meters is pretty much mounted upside down too, from what I can tell.
 
pradigmshift said:
No problem! I recapped the unit as can be seen in this post: http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=331200

The tantalum ones are:
C101/C103
C105/C107
C109/C111
That is only for one channel, so there are 12 tantalum caps total.

The cap list for the phono stage is added as pdf file. I removed the price columns, because they were out-of-date.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

There are only 8 tants in the circuit. C101-C108. I found the values also differed from the schematic as well. There were four 100uf/10V and four 100uf/6.3V in both my CA-1010 and CA-2010.

C109-C112 are 100uf/25V 'lytics. FWIW, C110 and C112 are also marked wrongly on the schematic as C100 C102.
 
Thank you Brutal you are right, only 8 and those values as well! I just grabbed my ordering list, should have known better and check the components. But it looks to me the values from the schematic work just as well.
 
nate86 said:
Agh, while trying to see if I could make the meters a little brighter via a q tip cleaning, I somehow screwed up the wiring on the right meter- now every time the amp goes on it pegs to the right immediately. Ugh. The circuit board for these meters is pretty much mounted upside down too, from what I can tell.
Click to expand...

You mean it stays to the right? Did you disconnect a wire?
 
pradigmshift said:
You mean it stays to the right? Did you disconnect a wire?
Click to expand...

Disconnect would not move the meter.

Sounds like a shorted wire or transistor in the meter drive circuit is putting voltage on the meter output. Be extra careful around a CA-2010 if you ever get in one, that meter drive has a chip that just might be unobtanium (haven't looked at it yet.)
 
^^ yes- I think I shorted a wire/transistor, in which case it should be an easy fix, once I figure out how to take it apart. The darn board is mounted upside down.

Must be more careful next time....
 
I wonder how the transistor got shorted with the case and all. Btw, I have a soundcard which has ultrasound oscillation, makes the meters stay at 1 Watts all time (volume all up)..

Not saying that you should, but if you need to operate on the meter board here's how: first the front panel needs to go off, then (if I remember correctly) 1 hex screw and 2 screws, loosen the wire strap, then for best access desolder the metal case feet and bend the feet straight with pliers to be able to remove the case...
 
I know how it got shorted out...(okay I know this was stupid...)- I was cleaning out the lights/adjusting them while the unit was powered on. Light unit slipped a little, and it has a metal base, so I'm sure it shorted something out.

And wait...I have to desolder the metal case feet? What kind of maniac designed this wonderful beast?? :)
 
nate86 said:
I know how it got shorted out...(okay I know this was stupid...)- I was cleaning out the lights/adjusting them while the unit was powered on. Light unit slipped a little, and it has a metal base, so I'm sure it shorted something out.

And wait...I have to desolder the metal case feet? What kind of maniac designed this wonderful beast?? :)
Click to expand...

There is a metal shield on the board, covering the components. After you get the board off the frame, the shield needs to come off. It has "feet" - tabs - that go through the board, are bent, and soldered. You should be able to spy these from the top (foil side).

We went through this with a local AK'er at a recent meet. He did the same thing. Most perfect CA-1010 I've ever seen except for the meter issue. Bet a small signal transistor, one of them is now shorted. :thmbsp:
 
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