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Ca-2010 lacks full potential

oftheclod

oftheclod

New Member
Some of you may know I dragged a Yamaha ca-2010 from the trash and got it running again, and it’s fantastic ....mostly.
There are some times that I’m playing it and the bass will drop out. It feels like the bottom richness drops out. I can shuffle around some knobs and then it feels like it roars back but only temporarily.
Is this an issue a recapping would fix? Fuses? It’s so hard to describe because it still sounds better than most amps I’ve ever had but not always it’s full power? I also don’t understand the phono selector or tone defeat knobs so maybe it’s just too much amp for me. Haha
 
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Yea, you're probably right. Sucks because I am using it as my main amp and hate to pull it apart again haha.
Vintage equipment I guess, should have known I wasn't done yet!
 
Maybe use the PRE-OUTs/MAIN-IN and confirm it's a preamp issue, eg, 2010 pre-out to another power amp.
Also, both channels the same behaviour?
 
The slide switch on the rear panel is another notorious switch. (coupler/decoupler ) And the easiest one to disassemble and clean.
 
avionic said:
The slide switch on the rear panel is another notorious switch. (coupler/decoupler ) And the easiest one to disassemble and clean.
Click to expand...
Welp, i flicked that bad boy a couple times and wouldn't ya know it, its clear as a bell and the -20dB switch works properly now. I'll have to pop the top off and DEOXIT again i guess?
 
ksteo said:
You may need to check the capacitance of 22000uF on the NA06842
Click to expand...
There is likely a handful of caps that could use replacing and a few fusible resistors as well. Trimmers and relays could use replacement as well. The 2 large 22,000µf filters usually are in pretty good shape still. It is the little caps that dry out more frequently.
 
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avionic said:
There is likely a handful of caps that could use replacing and a few fusible resistors as well. Trimmers and relays could use replacement as well. The 2 large 22,000µf filters usually are in pretty good shape still. It is the little caps that dry out more frequently.
Click to expand...

oh...are you referring components on the Tone Control board NA06845 or Main board NA06844?
 
Specifically, I've had channel dropouts with the mute and bass turnover switches along with the coupler. When problem next occurs
work through each switch in turn, any switch that causes the channel to be restored/dropout/change in SQ needs deep cleaning
(dismantle as above)
 
To insure that the switches are indeed clean they need to be disassembled and cleaned.
 
Hello everyone (especially avionic) - I took my ca2010 to a repair shop here in Southern California and was quoted like $800 to repair everything that’s wrong so I’m planning to tackle “restoration” myself. Here’s what I know is wrong.
1. Right channel drops out sporadically
2. Phono Terminal is cracked and causes it to push in when you connect phono inputs so I think this connection might be less than ideal
3. Need to replace power cord
4. Cosmetic switch missing for muting switch.
5. Speaker terminal has been cracked and should be replaced.
Having had it open a few times I cleaned it with deoxit and there was some glue mess on the boards which I started to clean. All this and I replaced the power switch and a fuse from the bottom.
My question is there’s a recap service kit on eBay for $185 which includes the capacitors and instructions for repair - is this something you all would suggest one buys for their first restoration project or should I just buy things as needed? There’s also a 3D printed speaker terminal replacement for $40 on eBay which is pretty reasonable.
 
Is it a recap service or a diy recap kit? To get the parts from Mouser or Digikey will cost $60 to $100. It will take you 4 or 5 hours to do a parts take-off to create a BOM. So, for $100, someone has helped you avoid mistakes. But you won’t become as intimate with the amp.

For me, it’s a hobby. I don’t mind taking my time, and enjoy getting to know my amps, so I do a BOM and order my own. If it was a one time thing, I’d order the kit ( if they were good components).
 
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