Todd Dodds
Super Member
FYI
I don't use those anymore. The proper crimper is expensive, so I used a 2 lb. hammer. I had it resting on the dustcover of my turntable when I whacked it.
Cable - audible differences?
- Thread starter soundmig
- Start date
I don't use those anymore. The proper crimper is expensive, so I used a 2 lb. hammer. I had it resting on the dustcover of my turntable when I whacked it.
Seamaster
Active Member
OK. And I'm not trying to stir the pot. I think this is where things break down sometimes: when ridicule of outrageously expensive products gets in the way of reasoned discussion of reasonable products that can improve sound. I'm one step above lamp cord (fancy lamp cord for audio, basically) because cables are such a circus that I haven't dipped my toe in.Not saying that's your fault either. Just saying.
Talking about lamp cord, I had a suprise. I was looking for a pair of something to burn in my new speakers in a spare bedroom. So I found two Ikea power cords with dimmer switch for my old floor lamps. The lamps were long gone to the dump, I don’t know why I kept the cords.
So I cut the wall plugs and switch boxes off, strip the ends and dipped them in a solder pot, and there I had a set of 18awg copper “speaker” cables with tinned bare ends. I left the system running for a day.....
This morning I went to room to check to see if anything on fire, wow, I notice those lamp cords sound really nice! They don’t have the most transparent or dynamic sound but they do have really natural and inviting sound! I could live with that easily if those cords in my bedroom or office setup
Sot sounds like you are saying that the lamp cord has a different sound than your other cables?
And how does it come about that someone has a solder pot sitting around?
I saw one on "How It's Made" and thought, man I'd love to have that.
But somehow doesn't seem practical. Now I have to go look.
Well well well. Now I know what I want for Christmas.
There's so much cool stuff in the world. Would hate to knock one of these over though.
I saw one on "How It's Made" and thought, man I'd love to have that.
But somehow doesn't seem practical. Now I have to go look.
Well well well. Now I know what I want for Christmas.
There's so much cool stuff in the world. Would hate to knock one of these over though.
That's fine, but I've read that solder(tinned copper ends) is a poor conductor for sound
Use silver solder. Silver is a better conductor than copper.
Silver - Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silver
Silver is a chemical element with symbol Ag (from the Latin argentum, derived from the Greek ἀργός: "shiny" or "white") and atomic number 47. A soft, white, lustrous transition metal, it exhibits the highest electrical conductivity, thermal conductivity, and reflectivity of any metal.
Silver - Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silver
Silver is a chemical element with symbol Ag (from the Latin argentum, derived from the Greek ἀργός: "shiny" or "white") and atomic number 47. A soft, white, lustrous transition metal, it exhibits the highest electrical conductivity, thermal conductivity, and reflectivity of any metal.
Last edited:
And interestingly enough, I think silver and copper are supposed to be a better conductor than gold.
That's true but solder is actually used as a metallic glue rather than a conductor.
Seamaster
Active Member
That's fine, but I've read that solder(tinned copper ends) is a poor conductor for sound
Solder mostly is tin, just lookup Duelund and Western Electic wires, they are tin plated copper cable. I am using Duelund in my system now, they are wonderful.
Also, silver solder doesn't usually have that much silver in it.
I know the purpose of solder but my own soldering is seldom very good
Silver and copper do conduct better than gold but gold is far less reactive in air.
Solder is mostly tin, but tin can sound really vivid. Same for the 100% gold conductor. By the end of the day, your ear is the judge.
Seamaster
Active Member
Yes, I am using Duelund WE replica wire for speaker cables in my main system, they are wonderful.
Setup:
MacBook
McIntosh D150 DAC
DeHavilland UV3 pre
McIntosh MC30 (restored) power amps
Tannoy Turnberry and Wharfedale Dentons
I used the Mundorf silver gold solder to tin the tip then use the bare wire end to connect speakers and amp. In my system, I can even tell AMR gold fuse also made a difference, more body and dynamic to the music. I also tried synergistic research sr20 quantum fuse but did not like them because they lit up the HF too much.
BTW, if you installed the fuse backward, they will make the system sound weird
As long as the bare wire is connected directly, I'd think it wouldn't matter which type of solder was used to tin the wire ends
sqlsavior
Lunatic Member
Not me. I'm a mechanic. I get paid to repair the nightmares engineers design.
Interesting that after the Tacoma Narrows bridge failure, there were four significant, long span bridges built in the Puget Sound region that float on the water. Also interesting is that one sunk, while under renovation. This time it wasn't the engineers' fault - the maintenance folks left the pontoon hatches open during a storm.
Now back to our discussion on bridges with CABLES!
bimasta
Addicted Member
I always use bare wire — the most direct connection is the best. Unless I'm experimenting with different amps/speakers; then I use bananas for convenience. I always tin the bare wire to prevent stray strands, and stiffen it (easier to work with that way) — then scrape the solder off the outside with a blade, so only copper is exposed, and only shiny copper makes the contact.
Last edited: