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capacitor trouble finding replacement

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donsimon

New Member
Briefly i have a problem with trying to find replacement cap for another old Sony receiver. I am trying to learn how to repair an ebay spares sony str v45l i bought as practice. The caps i am looking for seem to be unobtainable and i have tried all the usual mouser digikey etc. i need to find a cap spec as follows
diameter 35mm height 50mm but up to 65mm. leads are four snap in type with a spacing of 22.5mm. min capacitance 8200uf and voltage 50v. i have searched and searched but maybe i am looking in wrong places. Ebay no good. It cant be that difficult ? can it ?
 
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Something like this?
upload_2020-6-26_19-16-53.png

Above is for United Chemi-con SMH and KMH series, I'd think that Nichcon and others would be similiar.
You can increase the voltage rating to 63V or 80V without harm, you can also increase the uf to say 10000uf since
the originals would have been -20% +50% (maybe).
 
2 pin snap in, wrong format...
 

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The VND type of the Chemi-Con SMH series are 4-pin snap-in.

This item would probably work: ESMH101VND103MA63T

There are also some in the Cornell Dubilier 383LX series that ought to work.
All of these should fit physically, and be well enough within tolerances: 383LX123M063A052, 382LX103M080A062, 383LX822M080A062.

I might lean toward the Cornell Dubillier, due to longer lifetime and two of the numbers are rated for 105c.

Also, do you need the 2 dummy pins? If not, going with 2-pin caps broadens your choices.
 
50 Green said:
The VND type of the Chemi-Con SMH series are 4-pin snap-in.

This item would probably work: ESMH101VND103MA63T

There are also some in the Cornell Dubilier 383LX series that ought to work.
All of these should fit physically, and be well enough within tolerances: 383LX123M063A052, 382LX103M080A062, 383LX822M080A062.

I might lean toward the Cornell Dubillier, due to longer lifetime and two of the numbers are rated for 105c.

Also, do you need the 2 dummy pins? If not, going with 2-pin caps broadens your choices.
Click to expand...

Hi and thanks. I dont think i need the dummy pins. Guess they are there for stability. The active pins must be 22.5mm and the diameter no more than 35mm. No space for bigger or i would have had luck with some 40mm ones

I will keep looking
 
You may not find the exact cap for an old device but there are ones you can use instead. Looking at radial instead of snap in I have found some that will work. For stability you can use some silicon glue or other type after installed. Some examples, https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Comp...ors-Radial-Leaded/_/N-75hqw?P=1z0wqs8Z1yx4avv

Values of capacitance can go up as well as voltages. One example that I would consider, https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UVR1H103MRD?qs=0iTUKsweV2uMt0ux2Mc9Zw==

I will say that the cap in question if a PS cap so a larger value will only be better. With all the caps Mouser and Digikey have you will find some that will work fine. It may not look the same inside but the amp only cares if it works. Electronic parts change really fast. Right now the tiny smd, smt like components will soon be the only ones you will be able to find. Very hard to work with but I have had to use some in place of through hole ones because through hole ones are obsolete. Good luck learning electronics and getting the amp working again. Replace all the electrolytic caps, or at least I would. Cost is not that great.
 
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donsimon said:
Briefly i have a problem with trying to find replacement cap for another old Sony receiver. I am trying to learn how to repair an ebay spares sony str v45l i bought as practice. The caps i am looking for seem to be unobtainable and i have tried all the usual mouser digikey etc. i need to find a cap spec as follows
diameter 35mm height 50mm but up to 65mm. leads are four snap in type with a spacing of 22.5mm. min capacitance 8200uf and voltage 50v. i have searched and searched but maybe i am looking in wrong places. Ebay no good. It cant be that difficult ? can it ?
Click to expand...
Now and then I look by checking "obsolete" (or "discontinued") and "in-stock" in a search and find discontinued components at both Mouser and Digi-Key. Sometimes you strike gold. :banana: Sometimes strike out. :oops:
Sometimes, depending on the trace layout, you can drill new holes for the standard 10mm LS. But a lot of times it's not possible.
 
I got the caps in the end and managed to solder them in ok. The unit powers on with no horrible noises through the speakers or to be honest no noises at all until i start turning the volume control up and down a few times. No crackling from any of the controls but i do need to turn volume right up before anything much happens and then it settles down. i have sprayed contact cleaner into the pots as i have seen demonstrated on YT by numerous folk. think its starting to get more complicated now !
 
Maybe clearly state what the fault is?
Low audio output?
Both channels affected?
Tried different sources, ie AUX, TAPE, TUNER...?
Same through headphones?
Tried spkrs set MAIN, REMOTE,,,?

Preamp is opamp based (NJM4560), power supply to pins 4 and 8 ok? +/-18Vdc to GND.
 
mbz said:
Maybe clearly state what the fault is?
Low audio output?
Both channels affected?
Tried different sources, ie AUX, TAPE, TUNER...?
Same through headphones?
Tried spkrs set MAIN, REMOTE,,,?

Preamp is opamp based (NJM4560), power supply to pins 4 and 8 ok? +/-18Vdc to GND.
Click to expand...
Apologies. To summarize all inputs are the same in as much as after switching on sound is intermittent from one channel or the other until I turn volume past 10 o clock. After that there is sound which is pretty decent from both channels. Headphones are the same. If I switch from A to B and then back to A it is often necessary to give the volume a tweak to get both channels going again. I will check the op amp pins in due course. Ok have had the chance to test with multi meter the DC voltage at the speaker terminals readings from dialog dl9206 mm are as follows. Right channel shows negative 290 mv on auto ranging and left channel shows -neg 500mv . Natural instinct says this is not good. Checking another amp showed very different values very !!
 
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donsimon said:
To summarize all inputs are the same in as much as after switching on sound is intermittent from one channel or the other until I turn volume past 10 o clock. After that there is sound which is pretty decent from both channels. Headphones are the same. If I switch from A to B and then back to A it is often necessary to give the volume a tweak to get both channels going again.
Click to expand...
Have you thoroughly cleaned all switches and controls ? The protect relay with fouled contacts will do exactly as your described. So will cold solder connections.
 
donsimon said:
I am trying to learn how to repair an ebay spares sony str v45l i bought as practice.
Click to expand...
First . Its alway best to fix any issues first before throwing new parts in it.Because when you get done throwing new parts at it. Then you still have to fix problem.Which usually means another parts order and additional shipping charges.;)
Your not learning squat by throwing parts at it. Need to learn how to trouble shoot to find the bad parts...Testing components, interpreting schematics ,etc.
 
avionic said:
First . Its alway best to fix any issues first before throwing new parts in it.Because when you get done throwing new parts at it. Then you still have to fix problem.Which usually means another parts order and additional shipping charges.;)
Your not learning squat by throwing parts at it. Need to learn how to trouble shoot to find the bad parts...Testing components, interpreting schematics ,etc.
Click to expand...
I agree with what you say and i am trying to learn this stuff by reading things and watching folk on you tube with the same or similar problems to me. My biggest problem is No esr, no alternative to 240v power when testing things and no scopes at the moment like many people seem to have. I have a DMM and a bit of soldering equipment and very little skill or practical knowledge. Eventually i hope to improve all aspects. I did purchase enough capacitors to avoid postage charges as i have 3 old sony receivers which may need them one day...STR 6055 which is the best of the lot and works perfectly, STR v4L stereo fm not working but great in all other areas and STR v45L which is the piece of junk i am trying to get working. I have a pristine TA F730ES which is my pride and joy a Thorens TD280mk2 turn table and a NAD cd player put through a set of old Tannoy R3's. I bought a Sony ST730ES which has issues but matches my amp and i desperately want to get that working properly too. ( Starts up all scratchy and low volume and broken but warms up and functions fine after 10 mins). Thanks for your advice and help
 
donsimon said:
Hi and yes it does become addictive ! Trouble is I haven't fixed anything yet to enjoy the high !
Click to expand...
Anticipation builds the satisfaction of the "high". Expect failures, they are part of the learning process. Perseverance and patience navigating through bumpy roads gives you a greater satisfaction than a "quick fix" ever could. There is no thrill in a "smooth" ride. :beatnik::eek::yikes::oops::rant:.... then.... :rockon::music: The "aaahhhhh moment" arrives.... :beerchug:
 
If its only dropping out at low volumes I personally would be testing the volume pot. I would put a DMM across it and see if there are any drop outs as you slowly turn the volume control up. Sometimes contact cleaner just won't cure a bad pot. Realistic was notorious for using volume controls that didn't track right. I've worked on several where one channel would come up first. Then the other channel would come in. No amount of cleaning would cure the problem. I just replaced them with better made pots.
 
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