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Capacitors value question? Recapping Realistic Optimus T-300's...

mikey3117

Victory is mine!
I'm getting ready to recap my Realistic Optimus T-300 speakers. This isn't my first recap but when I recapped my Mach Ones, I basically ordered caps from Videolady's parts list.

Here are the stock caps from my T-300's:
3.3mfd 100v
4mfd 100v
16mfd 100v

Here's the Solen caps I think I need:
Solen 3.3uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor
Solen 3.9uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor
Solen 16uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor

My question is...what's the difference between "mfd" and "uf"? Is my Solen caps parts list correct?
 
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I am not totally sure on this but I don't think that it matters, your Solen list is correct...I think.
 
They both mean the same thing. Microfarad. I have tried Solens before but personally I find them harsh. I stick with the 5% Daytons from Parts Express. They have the 3.3 and 4.0 but you would have to use a 15uf and a 1uf together.
 
uf = mdf. Some manufacturers use uf, some mdf. Absolutely no difference.

The only thing I have to say about the Solen caps, they might make them sound bright. Dayton's are a little bit more mellow, but the choice is your's.

Good Luck either way.
 
They both mean the same thing. Microfarad. I have tried Solens before but personally I find them harsh. I stick with the 5% Daytons from Parts Express. They have the 3.3 and 4.0 but you would have to use a 15uf and a 1uf together.

Capacitors add when placed in parallel in a circuit, so 15uF and 1uF would be the equivalent of 16uF capacitor.
 
I'm getting ready to recap my Realistic Optimus T-300 speakers. This isn't my first recap but when I recapped my Mach Ones, I basically ordered caps from Videolady's parts list.

Here are the stock caps from my T-300's:
3.3mfd 100v
4mfd 100v
16mfd 100v

Here's the Solen caps I think I need:
Solen 3.3uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor
Solen 3.9uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor
Solen 16uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor

My question is...what's the difference between "mfd" and "uf"? Is my Solen caps parts list correct?
If you haven't already ordered check out Erse. I've had very good results with their caps, used on my Mach One and Two speakers, HPM-100 and AR3a. Very reasonable prices too.
 
Old Thread; New Member!

As everyone has already replied, "mfd" = "uF" = "microFarad" which means the value has an exponent of 10 raised to the -6 or 1/1000000. In engineering documents, they use the symbol mu (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Micro-) which is a greek letter that looks like a little M with long sweeping legs. Since traditional documentation doesn't support the greek alphabet, they use "mfd" as a short notation for "microfarad" and "uF" to indicate the "head of the mu" and F to indicate "Farad". (I realize nobody cares... but wanted to provide some basis for feeling "comfortable" with the disconcerting notations! No different really than if you were looking up pipe notations for your household plumbing).

ANYWAY... the REAL reason I'm replying here is to say THANK YOU to all of you contributors for leaving your experiences here! I'm leaving a few thoughts and comments of my own while I restore my T-300s -- as I've been lucky enough to be the single owner and I'm only interested in "refreshing" my basically already excellent condition speakers.

I found Erse yesterday while scouting out CAPS just before finding this site ... and they have 5% tolerance CAPS that are peer-priced with the PartsExpress 10% electrolytics (which others have measured the PartsExpress CAPS at +11% tolerance). But "why electrolytics" you ask? If you search the web you'll see that there's discussion that, if you don't know the detail to which the original designers used to create their cross-over networks, the equivalent circuits of other technologies like the Metalized Polypropylene CAPS may shift or off-center your passbands. While that may not matter on the T-300's due to the Lpads that allow you to vary the passband, and the given benefits (longevity; tighter tolerance) of the Metalized Ploypropylene -- it does raise the question: who's done a juxtaposed test after burn-in of new "different technology" CAPS to determine if the extra costs merit the audible rewards? You're almost certainly going to need to update the foams in another 10-20 years... how much beyond renewal is hype and reward? I'm hoping that some smart and tenacious consumer will follow that path for the rest-of-us!

Anyway... this post is not to ridicule anything or anybody.. because without the questions, suggestions and lessons-learned shared by everyone else on here -- people like myself, engineer or not, are at best "bumbling fools."

Respectfully Yours,
jj
 
I refoamed my T300's last year and I think they sound very good, but maybe a little muted at the high end. Now I plan to recap them. Great information in this thread, but as time has passed would you still go with the Erse or Daytona? Or did you so d up using the Solen caps?
 
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