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Chassis Socket Hole Knockout Cutter I Want To Recommend. What Do You Use?

wparks

AK Subscriber
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In gearing up for my first build of a 6BQ5/EL84 single ended amp, I did a lot of searching for advice on cutting 3/4" tube socket holes in my chassis for 9-pin tubes. I had thought that about the only good option would be a Greenlee punch, but I really did not want to spend $60-$100 for a single punch. The advice I found varied widely, and the threads were pretty old, so thought a refresh on the topic might be useful.

I learned a lot about what not to do, like buy cheap shoddy hole punches from Amazon. They are not even heat treated, let alone tool steel, and should really be considered as counterfeit. Customers stated a myriad of problems in the feedback- sometimes, on the very first hole, the bolt threads gall, or strip, or break. On one the die cracked in half. Others were off the stated size by small amounts, and many had tiny socket head bolts that required reefing on a tiny Allen wrench while cutting. On thin aluminum and other soft metals some said they got perhaps a few holes, but they quickly blunted and stripped. Do yourself a favor and do not buy these.

Fail1.jpg Fail2.jpg Fail3.jpg

I found a great solution I wanted to share- TEMCo Industrial. They carry a range of knockout punch sizes in both actual, and conduit sizes. Don't buy the conduit sizes unless you are doing electrical work. For tube sockets, purchase the ones that say Actual. They are hardened tool steel, have a larger size bolt head, and includes a thrust bearing to make cutting a lot easier, a feature the Greenlee punches have as well. The few that TEMCo sells on Amazon (for a few dollars more, cheaper to buy direct from TEMCo) have stellar reviews, quite a difference from the ones above.

The one I purchased for my 9-pin holes cost $31.45, with free shipping at their website. This is half to a third as expensive as a Greenlee, and they look to be identical quality.
Once I have a chance to use it a few times, I'll pass on some pictures and my results. Have you tried these, or do you have an alternate recommend? I'd love to hear.


Temco_0.75_Actual_Punch.jpg Temco_0.75_Actual_Punch2.jpg
 
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If you're working with aluminum, these are cheap and cut through 1/8" sheet like butter:

https://www.amazon.com/SALI-Tungsten-Carbide-Titanium-Plated-Stainless/dp/B0CG93Q2ML/
I'll have to check those out myself.
I've just been using various step drill bits mostly, and even Forstner bits on aluminum. If you set your drill press to its slowest speed, the Forstner bits made for wood work great as long as you go slow a little at a time sweeping the filings away and using a bit of 3 in 1 oil to cool the bet. The Forstner bits I've used are still sharp after using them on aluminum. Even boring through 3/8" thick aluminum.
 
If you're working with aluminum, these are cheap and cut through 1/8" sheet like butter:

https://www.amazon.com/SALI-Tungsten-Carbide-Titanium-Plated-Stainless/dp/B0CG93Q2ML/

I saw those tungsten carbide hole saws! Interesting. I have a heavy plate of stainless I would love to build something on, and I think this is about the only solution to get through such a hard and difficult material. (I would never try a punch on this.)

My only concern, in having dealt with cheap hole saws before, is how much precision in the center drill placement. I suspect there is enough wobble to get a somewhat ugly hole, but perhaps with top mount tube sockets? Any experience with these you would like to share?

51Jm7ebp5dL._SL1500_.jpg
 
I worked on aircraft for years.....a set of these step drills was always in my tool bag....they work very well. They come in all different size configurations....
View attachment 3458091
Yeah- I've always wanted to try a stepped bit. Looks easy enough to hand-hold for not-so-precision holes, but I'm guessing for a tube chassis a drill press is probably a must?
 
I saw those tungsten carbide hole saws! Interesting. I have a heavy plate of stainless I would love to build something on, and I think this is about the only solution to get through such a hard and difficult material. (I would never try a punch on this.)

My only concern, in having dealt with cheap hole saws before, is how much precision in the center drill placement. I suspect there is enough wobble to get a somewhat ugly hole, but perhaps with top mount tube sockets? Any experience with these you would like to share?

View attachment 3458087

I have them in several sizes up to 1-3/16", no wobble at all. It's best to use them in a drill press though.
 
I use the step drill bits and Greenlee punches as I was an electrician in a former life. I have also used the punches to enlarge the chassis holes when replacing main filter caps that have the terminal a little too close for comfort.
 
The one that shattered was probably too hard, but the bolt was too soft. May have also been dull. Stuff like this needs to be hard enough to wear well, but not so hard that its brittle like glass

Bolts are the same, cheap ones are basically like string cheese.
 
Yeah- I've always wanted to try a stepped bit. Looks easy enough to hand-hold for not-so-precision holes, but I'm guessing for a tube chassis a drill press is probably a must?
For the larger holes for the bigger power tubes a drill press is easier using step bits. With Any larger it really.
 
I used a step bit for holes in aluminum chassis for amps. I hand drilled them as no drill press at the time. Now have a small press and would use that when possible.
 
I used a step bit for holes in aluminum chassis for amps. I hand drilled them as no drill press at the time. Now have a small press and would use that when possible.
I have a half dozen or so step bits of various sizes. I recently found one that will drill a 1 1/4" hole. Before that the biggest ones I could find were 1 1/8'.
 
I purchased a Greenlee punch specifically for DB-25 connectors. It was ridiculously expensive, but was great for the project it was intended to do. Now a DB-25 is about as popular as a migraine, and it's got no purpose any more. People probably once thought that tube socket and keyed connector punches were also obsolete, but there's always a chance that the fringe markets will need that kind of thing.
 
Your paying too much for greenlee punches.
They're not $80

730 serries radio chassis hole punches run about $25-30 each on yhd auction site we love to hate. That is for greenlee, the very best name in the business.

American made and exceptional quality.

The "used" ones I've bought have no evidence of ever actually having been used, and still cut as well as I'd expect a new one to.

So don't take his word for it, price things out yourself.
 
Greenlee makes different ones depending on what you're punching. The ones for stainless are fairly expensive.

A wide range of auger bits are very useful and I use them all the time with a mag drill. Dont waste your time buying the ss types as they don't last many cuts if you're drilling in tough metal. I always request the carbide tipped ones, run them fairly slow and use plenty of coolant on them.

I build a lot of Aero space stuff, and drilling in A286 and super hard alloys drilling and the correct bits is an art.

 
No one here uses hole-saws?
Not if you want a clean hole in the top of a chassis for an underside mount tube socket. Anything but the cleanest perfectly round hole and it will look quite bad. The titanium carbide hole saws shown earlier would be cleaner than a bi-metal, and I would one use if I had to drill stainless, but I'd probably have to use a top mount socket to cover the rough edge.
 
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