• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Chinese counterfeit/knock-off power transistors

HiFi Poland

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
Hello,

I’m starting this thread because I wanted to describe an interesting issue concerning transistors. These are my own experiences, and I thought they might be useful to someone. I mainly restore turntables, but from time to time I also repair or restore an amplifier, mostly for myself or for friends.

A few months ago, I was restoring an Onkyo M-508 power amplifier for a friend. One channel was faulty. I checked it and fairly quickly determined that the power transistors and driver transistors were damaged. The power transistors were 2SA1492 and 2SC3856.

I searched an online marketplace and found transistors with exactly the same markings. I bought them, installed them in the amplifier together with new driver transistors, and reassembled everything. When I switched it on, the amplifier blew up — there were sparks and smoke.

I was upset because I thought I had done something wrong. I bought another set of transistors, soldered everything in again, checked everything carefully, and powered it up. The same thing happened again. The amplifier blew up.

I bought another set of transistors. This time, for safety, I made a dim-bulb current limiter and connected it to the amplifier’s power cord. It turned out that the amplifier was again trying to draw a very large current.

I then decided to try powering up the amplifier without the power transistors, using only the driver stage. This time, everything worked correctly. I therefore decided to take the original power transistors from the working channel, install them in the faulty channel, and see how the amplifier behaved. After installing the original transistors, everything worked.

At that point, I was certain that the problem was caused by the power transistors I had purchased.

I asked some friends from a Polish electronics forum for their opinions. Together, we concluded that these were most likely yet another set of Chinese counterfeit transistors. I broke open the transistors to inspect the silicon dies inside. They looked like this:

20250308_074714.jpg
20250308_075742.jpg

The original transistors are shown at the top, while the ones I purchased are at the bottom. As you can see, the silicon dies in the original transistors are very large. These are very high-quality transistors. The ones at the bottom are counterfeit. Their silicon dies are extremely small. These are the silver squares in the middle of the transistors.

I then purchased transistors from several different shops — probably seven or eight pairs in total — and finally found some of very good quality, like the ones shown here:

20250319_115519.jpg
20250319_115956.jpg

After my first failures, I decided that before installing any transistors, I would have to break open one pair as a test to check whether they were Chinese counterfeits. Once I was satisfied with their quality, I installed the remaining pair and the amplifier worked correctly.

I then bought several more pairs from the same seller as spares.

After this incident, I decided that I would always do this in the future. Before installing power transistors, I will sacrifice one sample and break it open to check its quality.

From my experience, the main problem is not usually with small-signal or lower-power transistors, for example those in TO-92 or TO-220 packages. I have often bought such transistors even from eBay or AliExpress, and they did not cause any problems. The real problem seems to be large power transistors.

Together with friends from the Polish forum, we noticed that good-quality transistors differ from counterfeits in several ways. For example, the base of the center lead is wider in the original transistors. It is also wider in the good transistors that I eventually purchased, as shown in the photo:
20250308_074714 strzałki.jpg

However, personally, I do not want to rely only on details like this. I prefer to sacrifice one transistor and break it open to check the silicon die directly.

I am writing about this because people often want to replace perfectly good transistors with new ones during a restoration, just as they replace capacitors. I do not recommend doing this because I believe the original transistors are usually the best ones.

I replace transistors only when they are clearly shorted or are causing problems.

Of course, there are exceptions. For example, old small-signal transistors in the tone-control circuits of amplifiers such as the Sony TA-1120 or TA-2000 can become very noisy and produce crackling sounds as they age. In such cases, they need to be replaced. However, if the amplifier is working properly, I leave the original transistors alone.

I am curious about your experiences with this subject. Perhaps you have your own observations that would be worth sharing.

Przemyslaw
 
Register to hide this ad
I have some older C5100 transistors that also have the wider center lug. I have used these to replace TO3 outputs too. Have be a little creative to install.
 
Did you test the Hfe of the old and new transistors? Don't see any mention of their Gain?

Did you shut down the bias for testing? Or did you just power it up???

I never see any discussion about that when people are having problems repairing Quasi_Complementary power amplifiers?

Counterfeit transistors are usually low gain regulator transistors.

Good expensive outputs are usually between 50 and 80 Hfe.
 
Hello,

I’m starting this thread because I wanted to describe an interesting issue concerning transistors. These are my own experiences, and I thought they might be useful to someone. I mainly restore turntables, but from time to time I also repair or restore an amplifier, mostly for myself or for friends.

A few months ago, I was restoring an Onkyo M-508 power amplifier for a friend. One channel was faulty. I checked it and fairly quickly determined that the power transistors and driver transistors were damaged. The power transistors were 2SA1492 and 2SC3856.

I searched an online marketplace and found transistors with exactly the same markings. I bought them, installed them in the amplifier together with new driver transistors, and reassembled everything. When I switched it on, the amplifier blew up — there were sparks and smoke.

I was upset because I thought I had done something wrong. I bought another set of transistors, soldered everything in again, checked everything carefully, and powered it up. The same thing happened again. The amplifier blew up.

I bought another set of transistors. This time, for safety, I made a dim-bulb current limiter and connected it to the amplifier’s power cord. It turned out that the amplifier was again trying to draw a very large current.

I then decided to try powering up the amplifier without the power transistors, using only the driver stage. This time, everything worked correctly. I therefore decided to take the original power transistors from the working channel, install them in the faulty channel, and see how the amplifier behaved. After installing the original transistors, everything worked.

At that point, I was certain that the problem was caused by the power transistors I had purchased.

I asked some friends from a Polish electronics forum for their opinions. Together, we concluded that these were most likely yet another set of Chinese counterfeit transistors. I broke open the transistors to inspect the silicon dies inside. They looked like this:

View attachment 3790940
View attachment 3790941

The original transistors are shown at the top, while the ones I purchased are at the bottom. As you can see, the silicon dies in the original transistors are very large. These are very high-quality transistors. The ones at the bottom are counterfeit. Their silicon dies are extremely small. These are the silver squares in the middle of the transistors.

I then purchased transistors from several different shops — probably seven or eight pairs in total — and finally found some of very good quality, like the ones shown here:

View attachment 3790944
View attachment 3790945

After my first failures, I decided that before installing any transistors, I would have to break open one pair as a test to check whether they were Chinese counterfeits. Once I was satisfied with their quality, I installed the remaining pair and the amplifier worked correctly.

I then bought several more pairs from the same seller as spares.

After this incident, I decided that I would always do this in the future. Before installing power transistors, I will sacrifice one sample and break it open to check its quality.

From my experience, the main problem is not usually with small-signal or lower-power transistors, for example those in TO-92 or TO-220 packages. I have often bought such transistors even from eBay or AliExpress, and they did not cause any problems. The real problem seems to be large power transistors.

Together with friends from the Polish forum, we noticed that good-quality transistors differ from counterfeits in several ways. For example, the base of the center lead is wider in the original transistors. It is also wider in the good transistors that I eventually purchased, as shown in the photo:
View attachment 3790949

However, personally, I do not want to rely only on details like this. I prefer to sacrifice one transistor and break it open to check the silicon die directly.

I am writing about this because people often want to replace perfectly good transistors with new ones during a restoration, just as they replace capacitors. I do not recommend doing this because I believe the original transistors are usually the best ones.

I replace transistors only when they are clearly shorted or are causing problems.

Of course, there are exceptions. For example, old small-signal transistors in the tone-control circuits of amplifiers such as the Sony TA-1120 or TA-2000 can become very noisy and produce crackling sounds as they age. In such cases, they need to be replaced. However, if the amplifier is working properly, I leave the original transistors alone.

I am curious about your experiences with this subject. Perhaps you have your own observations that would be worth sharing.

Przemyslaw
Invest in a high power curve tracer
 
This is the kit I've been fortunate to own for many decades...

$_57.JPG
 
When I rebuilt my M-508 three years ago I put all new output transistors in it and they also have the wide center lug (I bought them from Mouser):

13. new transistor intall 1AA.jpg
 
IMHO, if identifying a counterfeit were as easy as looking at the leads width, not many people would be buying those transistors.

My policy is simpler: I just buy from the big reputable sellers, mainly Digikey (no affiliation) and some special parts from Profusion (no affiliation). We have a lot of local sellers down here in Argentina, but I don't like to waste or gamble with customer's money. I don't buy any semiconductor down here. Official dealers, or nothing. If an obsolete part is not available, I find a suitable replacement from those reputable sites. I don't buy "NOS" transistors from any other source, so I never get a fake part. This way I never got 1 single fake transistor perhaps in the last 10 years.
 
Good info, now you see what everyone has to deal with unknown sources and the scamming going on with unscrupulous vendors.
 
Your experiences are very interesting. Yes, whenever possible, I also buy transistors from Digi-Key, Mouser, and a few other reliable suppliers. What I wrote is, of course, only based on my own observations.

Regarding the center lead, I simply noticed that Chinese and Japanese manufacturers seem to use different production machinery. Because of this, the center lead on transistors made on Chinese production lines often has the same width as the other leads. I am not saying that this is a strict rule or that anyone should rely on it, but when I buy a transistor, I usually look at details like this because I believe it slightly increases the chance of getting a good, working part.

Here is another difference I noticed. The mounting hole in the original transistor is round and has a thin edge, like this:

20250308_075742.jpg
20250315_010257.jpg

In the case of the 2SA1492 and 2SC3856, the situation is now quite simple because they are available from Digi-Key and Mouser. A few months ago, when I was repairing the M-508, they were not available there, which is why I searched elsewhere. If they are available now, then that is fine.

However, in many cases, original transistors for older amplifiers are simply no longer available.

Yes, it is often possible to find suitable substitutes. But when I want to keep the amplifier as original as possible, I search online and take a chance.

This amplifier also uses a 2SK389. It is a small dual input transistor. I know that it can be replaced with two separate transistors with similar parameters, but I wanted to keep the amplifier original. I found one and bought it as a test. It worked, so I bought more as spares. I also used one in my Sony TA-F333ESX.

As I mentioned in my first post, I have never had problems with small transistors. The problems were usually with large power transistors.

Yes, I have been planning to buy a curve tracer for several years, but there are always other expenses. Also, I rarely repair amplifiers. I mainly work on turntables, and there are no problems with large power transistors in turntables.

Buck Rogers: Yes, the first time I powered it up exactly as it was The fault seemed simple. Only after the second or third attempt did I realize that the transistors were so poor that even the bias current caused them to turn fully on and create a short circuit. After that, I powered the amplifier through a dim-bulb tester and with the bias turned down.

I do not remember what their hFE was. It was several months ago. But that is an interesting suggestion, and I will remember it in the future.

Apart from transistors, integrated circuits are also a major problem, especially hybrid ICs. But that is a completely different and very large subject.

I also have another source of good original parts. There are still people who ran radio and television repair shops in the 1990s. At that time, they had access to many original parts. I look for such people in Poland, and quite often I manage to buy genuine old-stock components from them.

For example, the STK5416 is used in the QL-Y55F and QL-Y77F turntables. Genuine original parts are no longer available. However, some time ago I found an older gentleman who had run an electronics repair shop during that period. I believe this IC was also used in some JVC/Victor VCRs. He still had more than a dozen of them stored in his basement, so I bought all of them.

I just thought I would mention this as an interesting example.
 
You could also compare the weight to the data sheet. If it's supposed to weight 18g and weighs 11g, it's fake!
 
IMHO, if identifying a counterfeit were as easy as looking at the leads width, not many people would be buying those transistors.

My policy is simpler: I just buy from the big reputable sellers, mainly Digikey (no affiliation) and some special parts from Profusion (no affiliation).
This...
chip1stop… theyre authorised SanKen distributors… 1492/3856 are still in production
...and this. I have never gotten counterfeit parts from authorized distributors. Digi-Key, Profusion, and Arrow/Chip1Stop are authorized Sanken distributors.
 
Back
Top Bottom