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Choosing a dummy load for bench testing

feds27

New Member
I was reading various threads where dummy loads are mentioned for bench testing but it's not clear to me what load I should use for my amp. It sounds like I should match the dummy load to my amp, but, double the wattage. So if my amp is rated 100W into 8Ohms, it sounds like I should use an 8Ohm 200W dummy load.

I also noticed people recommend bench testing at 8Ohms and someone said he uses 2 - 4Ohm 200W resistors per channel. Am I correct in guessing he probably connected his resistors in parallel for 8Ohm x 200 Watts total? Why wouldn't he just use a single 8Ohm 200W resistor?

Thanks.
 
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I would say the rule of thumb should be that your dummy loads be rated at least double that of your amplifier's output at the specified impedance. It wouldn't be a problem to have 500W 8-Ohm dummies on an amp spec'd to run 100 WPC into an 8-Ohm load, for example.

Regarding two 4-Ohm resistors, they should be in SERIES, and not parallel! Paralleling them would yield a 2-Ohm load which would most likely damage the amplifier being tested. :nono:

Now, some folks want to have the ability to test amplifier output at 4-Ohms, which is usually the minimum safe operating impedance for most "home-use" receivers and amplifiers. In this case, I would recommend an extra set of 8-Ohm dummies, paralleled to yield 4-Ohm loads. If you go this route, make sure your second set of dummies is at least double the expected output of your unit when it's running into a 4-Ohm load. Power handling capability of two resistors of equal resistance in parallel is twice that of the lowest wattage resistor.
 
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Thanks guys. I think I'll go with the 8ohm 200watt ones.

skibjr, you're right, I meant 2 x 4ohms in series would double the the impedance. I saw that in Echowars recommended equipment sticky he says he uses 2 x 4ohms for each channel. I was trying to figure out why he would do that.
 
There are many ways to do this and what you do often depends on what you can easily get. I use a slab of heat sink with ten 40 ohm metal body Dale resistors. They're wired in 2 banks of 5 for 8 ohms and two channels, or I can parallel or series the banks to get one channel of 4 or 16 ohms. They'll do a total of 500 watts, though I'd need a fan to do it continuously. Brief measurements at higher powers have been no problem. Why 40 ohms? It's a convenient value and I got a boatload of 'em cheap at a hamfest.
 
All you need is one 8 ohm 200 watt and one 4 ohm 200 watt non inductive loads.

I bought mine from Parts Express, I actually have 2 of each which comes in handy some times.

Not to quibble, but I think two loads are needed. General testing procedures require running both left and right channels simultaneously as the specification is something like 'XXX Watts per channel into X Ohms, both channels driven'.

Tom
 
Not to quibble, but I think two loads are needed. General testing procedures require running both left and right channels simultaneously as the specification is something like 'XXX Watts per channel into X Ohms, both channels driven'.

Tom

Run a pair of these Arcols....Fastened to a big ass heatsink.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMtbXrIkmrvidL5X%2bgDHY9H3BLdCo7WsbnA=

It work's great..
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=3930884&postcount=43
 
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Or scrounge up an old BPI 2,000watt load bank. Mr. Catrafter is right , if you can't load both channels and drive em it won't be a valid test. You don't need to scope both but you do need to drive both.
 
Not to quibble, but I think two loads are needed. General testing procedures require running both left and right channels simultaneously as the specification is something like 'XXX Watts per channel into X Ohms, both channels driven'.

Tom

:yes:
 
Power resistors get hot. Do not mount on wood or other non heat resistant surfaces. Provide ventilation and (as avionic mentioned) heat sinking. Almost started a fire once with 250 watt resistors mounted on plywood......Smelled the wood getting hot, and left two brown outlines of the resistor.
 
If you're really going to be running high power for long periods, you can oil cool them. If built to a proper size, you can use a 1 gallon paint can full of mineral oil as your heat sink. Make sure the can has a vent so it doesn't build pressure as the oil warms.
 
There are many ways to do this and what you do often depends on what you can easily get. I use a slab of heat sink with ten 40 ohm metal body Dale resistors. They're wired in 2 banks of 5 for 8 ohms and two channels, or I can parallel or series the banks to get one channel of 4 or 16 ohms. They'll do a total of 500 watts, though I'd need a fan to do it continuously. Brief measurements at higher powers have been no problem. Why 40 ohms? It's a convenient value and I got a boatload of 'em cheap at a hamfest.

I really like your dummy loads - where did you get the heat sinks? Are wire wound resistors okay?

Thanks
Bot
 
I built a dummy load capable of handling 2 x 200 Watts into 6.3 Ohms in an old amplifier I picked up cheap in a thriftstore. Gutted it and re-used the heatsinks and speaker terminals as inputs.
 
You can get ones like this 8ohm 300w on that site that can't be linked.

Or a 100w metal shell wire wound type like in the second pic
 

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Or scrounge up an old BPI 2,000watt load bank. Mr. Catrafter is right , if you can't load both channels and drive em it won't be a valid test. You don't need to scope both but you do need to drive both.

Oh contrare..If your testing mono blocks , its legit!:D Or true dual mono blocks.:scratch2:
 
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I really like your dummy loads - where did you get the heat sinks? Are wire wound resistors okay?

Thanks
Bot

Like most everything I've got, the heat sink was a slab I picked up surplus. For low value resistors I don't think inductance is anything to worry about, so wire wounds should be fine. If you can get the non-inductive versions, so much the better, but the Q of an 8 ohm wire wound is near zip.
 
Like most everything I've got, the heat sink was a slab I picked up surplus. For low value resistors I don't think inductance is anything to worry about, so wire wounds should be fine. If you can get the non-inductive versions, so much the better, but the Q of an 8 ohm wire wound is near zip.

Yep. Thanks.

Bot
 
You might also consider building an active load which might end up cheaper but will take a bit more work:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=8xX2SVcItOA

Example of a fancy version from http://www.audioscientific.com below:

15_Low_cost_active_load_draws_constant_battery_power_.jpg
 
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