Components affected by household issues or run hot, Help Needed

[ChefE]

Hello AK.
I love music. I love my gear. I want to keep loving it but some run more hot than others. Vintage gear and later such as my QB recapped Sansui QRX-777 reciever (sometimes lights wane in brightness), all original Sansui G-7700 receiver (now has a hummm), Yamaha RX-1600 A/V receiver, Sony STR-GX909ES receiver, and Sherwood AM-8500G 1120watt amplifier tend to operate a little above normal temperature. Most of the different system rigs are placed in typical vintage vertical audio cabinets with the glass front doors. These become convection ovens. A fan blowing on the G-7700 produces better sound.
The fans I have are cheap standard household fans; a desktop 6" to 10" and a tall rotating HEPA floor-standing fan.
BUT…….….
The fans created ground loop issues, EMF issues, and caused illumination fluctuations in some components lamps.
AND……….
To make matters worse, the main living room wall is the perfect place and size for my audio collection, but the adjacent side is the outlet for toasters, etc, the refrigerator, and all light switches—with dimmers! Speakers emitted a pronounced "hummmm or zzzzzzzzzzzz" and my plasma TV had a barely noticeable (Im the only one who noticed it) high pitched ZZZZZZZZ and trace visual graininess. When I relocated the A/V stuff to the other side of the room, the problem was gone. Although I had to spread my gear out and use all the electrical outlets on that particular circuit, so they don't obstruct the 100 inch wide windows in each wall. I currently only have basic surge protectors or power strips and they are on the carpet.

Questions:
1.) I need a small fan inside the home audio equipments' old school cabinets. I have only seen tiny computer based fans. What model or brand or whatever sort of cooling fan should be used?
What are some tips or advice to help circulation for those pieces that aren't in the open?
2.) What can be done to remedy A/V equipment issues placed near refrigerators or lamps with dimmers or ceiling lights with dimmers or ceiling fans?
3.) What are the do's and don'ts of plugging in power cords?
4.) Would a power conditioner help? I don't know anything about them.

If anyone has anything to share, please do.
Thank you for your time and knowledge.
Much appreciated,
Chef Eric

 

[whoaru99]

Firstly, any AV receiver is almost certain to (normally) run hotter than traditional/vintage stereo gear because there is a lot more going on inside similar, if not smaller package. It may not be optimal, but it is pretty normal.

For cooling, if I were going to modify a closed rack, I'd probably use the computer-type fans. Hot air rises so I'd be thinking of some sort of exhaust type arrangement (although many, I think, work a better as pushers than pullers) with inlet vents on the bottom to draw in cool(er) air from down low. An inlet filter system would be nice but it can't be too restrictive. Perhaps even some vent holes in the shelves.

Even with the fans, there still needs to be a way for air to move around a bit. If it's packed like sardines there is only so much that can be done. Normally owner's manuals suggest at least an inch or two on each side and 6 inches, give or take, or so over the top is not unusual. Some recommend more. The Manual for my RX-V1700 recommends 30cm (~12 in) over the top and 20cm (~8 in) on the sides and back.

 

[woofmytweets]

I've heard tales of people using computer fans at reduced voltage to keep them quiet, but also i have to agree with boytris - having some room for passive cooling is going to help a lot and prolong the life of your gear.

maybe have an electrician run a 2nd circuit behind your A/V panel - or try one of those power-conditioners.

 

[wmgwizard]

A power conditioner should help reduce or eliminate the line noise being picked up by your system.

Also pay attention to the quality, connection and routing of your signal cables.

The convection oven rack you are using may be helped with the addition of some fans near the top pulling heat out. Additional fans near the bottom pulling cool air in will also help but may pick up dust/dirt/pet hair etc.

 

[markn2wae]

Lamp flickering in one piece of gear might be a failing power switch on that piece, if the flickering is in more that one piece of gear, AC outlets, power strips and other appliances may be to blame.

Mark T.

 

[ChefE]

Thank you for all the advice. I reorganized the components in the shelving racks. The receiver is on the top shelf, the cassette decks and CD player and 8-track player are in between, and the solid state power amp is still on the bottom because it weighs 1 ton- and if it were higher up on a shelf and for some reason it broke or something and the amp was to fall, it will take out everything underneath with it. Not good. The top clearance for the receiver is around 3-5 inches and the amp has about 7 inches and sits on 1 inch blocks of wood under each foot. There was a solid backing of thick card stock which I removed long time ago so there'd be better air flow. But the whole rack system is against the wall, but enough space away for curtains and cords.
Power cables strung down the right side of the rack and plugged into a basic 6 outlet SurgeArrest. Speaker cables are strung down the left side. The RCA cables and such dangle in the middle.
I got a small 6 inch fan that sits nearby on little side table. Until I get another fan or rearrange again, I periodically will point the fan up or down. However turning on the fan results in a brief tonal change heard through the speakers and the receiver lights dim a little. When turning the fan off, the receiver illuminates a little and the tone slightly changes again. I experimented plugging the fan in a.) the same 6 outlet strip b.)into the wall outlet (top) as the SurgeArrest (bottom) c.) plug into a different wall outlet d.) plugged into a different wall outlet on a different chain of circuits. Option 'd' had better results, but worst for a decent looking living room. Poor on the spouse scale.
The best location in the room is still the only wall that's free, meaning there's no windows, fireplace, doors, or gaps....but the other side is the refrigerator, countertop outlets, and kitchen/dining room light switches that all have dimmers. Not sure if each side of the wall has its own circuit chain, but my guesstimate thinks they share one.

Would new recepticals for audio and video equipment and a new conduit line into a new switch in the homes main power switch box be the best idea ( and most expensive)?

Does anyone have a specific name and model for a fan or fans that will aid the heat situation?

 

[sqlsavior]

IME, a dedicated line is a good idea. The cost will mostly depend on how difficult access is, I would imagine. I had four done, through the crawl space under the house, for about $250, iirc.

Then plug any fans into the old circuit.

 

[ChefE]

Oh yea....
What are some good power condioners?

And the issue regarding the Sansui QRX-777 illumination intermittently changing dim or bright as a result of failing power supply....I HOPE NOT that's the problem. Although I think your right. I guess I should start saving money for that one too....right there along with my all original QRX-9001 that worked great up til last September, then zilch-zero-nada. I loved that Sansui. Slowly saving to get it sent up to the northwest to the quad specialist for the whole rebirth process.

All and all this addictive hobby and pursuit of sound is worth it.

 

[ChefE]

IME, a dedicated line is a good idea. The cost will mostly depend on how difficult access is, I would imagine. I had four done, through the crawl space under the house, for about $250, iirc.

Then plug any fans into the old circuit.

My home would be almost identical in the job needed. Crawl space and all. From the last electrician I hired (my stepdad and I replaced all the outlets in my home with new up to date recepticals and a few light switches, but one blew and smoked the switch in my bedroom and one side of my living room didn't work and the wall switch turned off a light in a different room. So I hired a pro to double check it all and add a outdoor outlet.) Can't remember what I paid exactly, but I recall it was less than $300. $250 seems like a good deal.