Confused on Technics turntable..

[destroysall]

Hello all! So a friend of mine donated me his old Technics SL-210 Frequency Generator Servo belt drive turntable when he upgraded. It is in great condition, minus the dust. Anyway, I have searched endlessly around for info on it, and found the SL-B210 on Vinyl Engine, but the table I have looks different from the picture they provide. The one I have looks much like the SL-220 pictured below:

My question is do the specs for the SL-220 (in terms of tonearm/cartridge specifications) apply for this particular SL-210 model, or do the SL-B210 specs apply? Also, does anyone have any more info on this table? I recall reading that the SL-220 was a BOTL, but I'm still not sure about it myself.

 

[Van_Isle]

From http://www.vintagetechnics.stereomanuals.com/turntables/index.htm the SL-210 /220 /230 are all in the same model line with manual / semi-automatic /full-automatic operation respectively, same as the SL-1800 / 1700 / 1600 lineup (and as per other series). So yes the basic specs / reqirements would be the same as the SL-220. Oh and the SL-235 would be the changer version.

What specifically are you wondering about? AFAIK, there isn't much if anything in terms of cartridge or tonearm that varies between any of the Technics tables.

 

[Dr Tinear]

Van Isle is correct about the SL-210 being the manual version of the semi-auto SL-220. This was the lowest-priced series of turntables that Technics offered in the late 1970s, but that doesn't mean that your SL-210 is junk. The drive system has much better specs than most of today's "entry-level audiophile" turntables under $500 and the arm is quite good, with low bearing friction, good geometry, and accurate tracking force and anti-skate adjustments. I'm using an SL-230 (same basic turntable, but fully automatic) in my main system and am very satisfied with its performance.

I'd recommend doing a little maintenance to get the most out of your SL-210. There are four potentiometers that can oxidize over time and give you unsteady speed. Two of them are the fine speed controls near the left side of the control panel and the other two are on the servo board. Buy a spray can of DeOxit D5, unplug the turntable from the AC outlet, remove the bottom panel, and spray and exercise all four pots and the 33/45 switch. Button the turntable up and install a new belt if the turntable needs it, preferably a PRB part rather than one of the made-in-Taiwan knockoffs that aren't as precisely made.

 

[Van_Isle]

When you have it open, I would also remove the center spindle and clean it up too.

The SL-220 service manual shows 3 screws to remove the spindle assembly. Pull the spindle (should be a c-clip to remove on the spindle). Clean the old oil that is probably just now dirty gunk off the spindle shaft, housing and thrust bearing with isopropyl alcohol. Use some light oil (such as sewing machine oil ... NOT WD-40) to relubricate it. You could also purchase the real Technics oil from Kabusa.com if you wish.

 

[destroysall]

Thank you, both. I will try and carefully clean my new and first table. It should be fun. Despite being a BOTL turntable, I'm still more than thrilled to have received this table. I've managed to start collecting a few records both new and old and can't wait to hear them.

From http://www.vintagetechnics.stereomanuals.com/turntables/index.htm the SL-210 /220 /230 are all in the same model line with manual / semi-automatic /full-automatic operation respectively, same as the SL-1800 / 1700 / 1600 lineup (and as per other series). So yes the basic specs / reqirements would be the same as the SL-220. Oh and the SL-235 would be the changer version.

What specifically are you wondering about? AFAIK, there isn't much if anything in terms of cartridge or tonearm that varies between any of the Technics tables.

Much appreciated info! As for my question, I asked because after hearing the Ortofon 2M Red on my kind friend's Pro-Ject Debut Carbon, I felt inspired to invest into the same cartridge along with the Ortofon SH-4 headshell.

 

[Jonny Ramone]

Get yourself a Technics overhang gauge. I got one on Ebay for $5 shipped. It makes setting the overhang much easier. These tables are set up for a Stevenson alignment. Mine was spot on using the gauge.

 

[destroysall]

Get yourself a Technics overhang gauge. I got one on Ebay for $5 shipped. It makes setting the overhang much easier. These tables are set up for a Stevenson alignment. Mine was spot on using the gauge.

Thanks for the tip! I will do definitely do that.

So I know that I had originally decided on the Ortofon 2M Red, but it got me thinking.. With the price of both the cartridge and headshell, I would only be a few hundred dollars away from a Pro-Ject Debut Carbon. Now I am not ready to make that upgrade currently (probably not for another year at least), but I am confused as if I should just upgrade to either a Shure M97xe or AT95e instead? I think my main issue is that next to sound, I want to make sure my cartridge will be easy on my records.

What do you guys think?

 

[kermit z]

Both the Shure and the AT are nice carts. The Shure is great on warped records with the brush down. I personally prefer the AT95E, but that is just my preference as I have both.

 

[scanguy77]

Technics 210

I bought a 210 at a thrift store for $25. Empire cartridge, but
needle is shot. No owners manual, sorry, but got a new
belt for it online.
Avery

 

[destroysall]

Both the Shure and the AT are nice carts. The Shure is great on warped records with the brush down. I personally prefer the AT95E, but that is just my preference as I have both.

Mind me asking, how do the two sound?

I bought a 210 at a thrift store for $25. Empire cartridge, but
needle is shot. No owners manual, sorry, but got a new
belt for it online.
Avery

Nice grab. I love my turntable, after cleaning the interior and a proper setup (albeit I still need the Technics overhang gauge, I'm sure), the table isn't bad at all. : - )