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Convert a 1981 Japanese Sl-1200 mk2 (100v) to USA (120v) ?

Totallywired

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I was perusing the forum threads on using a Technics SL-1200 Mk2 Japanese 100v on 120v USA voltage and read a lot about using a step down transformer. I would not like to use an external transformer and hoping for a sleeker workaround. My real curiosity and questions here are;

1. Would replacing the 100v internal transformer with a 120v transformer from a USA Technics 1200 mk2 (from a similar generation) be a legit procedure?
2.Would it upset the rest of the circuitry down the stream?
3. Do the different generations/years use different model transformers?

Hope to call on the infinite wisdom that is AK here!
 
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An external step-down is the easy and perfectly sensible solution.
Yep, it's the obvious choice of course. I do have one but find it cumbersome. This thread was not intended for "easy and sensible" as I noted above but rather for those who want to get into the 'complicated and impractical' solution in the hopes of a cleaner/more minimal set up as the goal with no external step-down transformers or any additional contraptions :D

I'd like to think this is possible surely?
Any takers?
 
Yep, it's the obvious choice of course. I do have one but find it cumbersome. This thread was not intended for "easy and sensible" as I noted above but rather for those who want to get into the 'complicated and impractical' solution in the hopes of a cleaner/more minimal set up as the goal with no external step-down transformers or any additional contraptions :D

I'd like to think this is possible surely?
Any takers?
Buy the necessary spare parts to run it on 120V and be done with it.
 
Well that’s brilliant news : )

I’ll report back on the other side of this!

Cheers for the reply’s AK friends.
 
With turntables running on such low currents, eg 15 watts or less, I wonder if a wall wart, though not as elegant, would also be an alternative to a step down transformer? I have a Denon step down transformer for a DP-80, but it certainly adds to the clutter.
 
Probably swapping in a North America (NA) transformer is the best way to go about it. I have worked on a lot of JDM 100VAC tape decks, and most of them have had the same after the transformer parts as their made for NA market counterparts. You'd have to check the service manual and schematics to know for sure. I've also found that in some cases, if there are nothing but discrete voltage regulators after the transformer smoothing caps and rectifiers, the 100VAC units work just fine on 120VAC as is. The regulators may be perfectly suited (check the regulator data sheet) to handle the increased voltage being supplied to them and the regulated voltage is exactly what is called for on the schematics. Now if there are portions that are unregulated, this won't work, as you will be sending much higher voltages into the circuitry, probably exceeding the voltage rating of the caps, possibly burning out lamps or displays. But most turntables don't have these things. I've successfully run a JDM spec Pioneer PL-A500 (PL-530 in North America) and a Technics SL-10 directly from 120VAC, and they do just fine, as both have regulators to make the voltage adjustment necessary for the circuitry. I checked all of the downstream voltages and they were all in spec. So it is a case by case situation.

But the safest and guaranteed to work method is just use an external step down transformer. I would not use and don't recommend the travel device converters, as these are usually switching power supplies rather than a simple transformer, and could cause unwanted noise, especially when used with a large gain device like a turntable.
 
That’s the goal here, just looking for guidance on the transplant!

I’ve ordered a 120v transformer (with board) pulled from a USA mk2. Here’s a link to a similar one. I’d like to know if these are essentially the only parts needing to be swapped out?

GENUINE Technics SL-1200MK2 (1st Gen) Power Transformer With PCB & Power Cord | eBay

Cheers

Just make sure that transformer is indeed the 120V version. As it doesn’t show the Mu Metal shield with the voltage code. “N” is for 100V, “M” is 120V, and “E” is multi voltage.
 
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